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Soviet NMF Jets

June 1, 2013 in Aviation

This family of Russian aircraft includes the Mig-17, Mig-19 and Mig-21. They are all Trumpeter 1/32nd scale and are all finished with varying shades of Model Master “Buffable Metalizer” in the rattle cans, followed by a brushed-on coat of Future/Pledge as a sealer, then decaled. All required considerable nose weight and I found an easy solution to that ‘problem’. I cut off a finger of a latex glove and filled it with No. 8 birdshot lead pellets, then super-glued the the end closed. This eliminates the possibility of loose BB’s rolling around inside the models AND it’s flexible enough to contort into those hard-to-reach areas in the nose of some models. I used that same method just last week when I built that EA-6A Intruder – (I think that required the middle finger)….for enough WEIGHT, I mean!

11 additional images. Click to enlarge

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10 responses to Soviet NMF Jets

  1. Hey Craig, well done on these, I think tey are the best you’ve shown, I tried to pick which one I liked best but they all look great.

  2. Craig….. Nice finish on those.

  3. Hi Craig, I’m with Neil and Jack, they all look great. But, guys, you need to be careful when enclosing lead with various types of glue. I know of lot of railway modellers have experienced problems. After a while the lead reacts with certain glues and the chemical reaction makes the package expand, with disastrous results to your models……………

  4. Nice builds Craig, NMF builds can be tricky, as the preparation to do a silver plane has to be almost flawless, it reveals every discrepancy. Thats why I only have one so far on the shelf. (actually 2, the other has mottling over the silver/alum finish). George I have not experienced this as I have several builds with lead weights in the nose some approaching 20 years old. None have not shown any kind of internal issues as yet. Some of them assembled with Tenax,Pro weld and cyno?? Is there a specific glue/cement we need to watch out for??

    Fly Navy

  5. That MiG-21 captures a weathered natural metal finish very well, Craig. They’re not nearly as shiny as many people think. I didn’t know Model Master had metalizers in rattle cans – is it difficult to apply?

    I’ve had good luck using thinned epoxy to secure BB nose weights. It can be cut with isopropyl alcohol without affecting the drying time.

    • I composed this short explanation for another modeling site many years ago, but it still applies and may answer many of your questions:

      This brief tutorial may be of some help when using Model Master “Buffable” Metalizers in the rattle cans.

      First, spray the entire airframe the base color…the shade you want the overall aircraft to reflect. Using a piece of an old, soft T-shirt, lay the piece on your thigh or hold it in your other hand while vigorously rubbing the finish to a sheen. Be sure to remove any rings on your fingers…you’ll see why. It’s also a good idea to have some of those cotton gloves handy for getting into those tight places..not to mention keeping the residue off your hands.

      Now, brush on a coat of Future to seal the finish. Their own brand of “sealer” has a tendency to dull the finish..believe me, I know. Now you can mask the piece with Tamiya tape or 3m Blue tape without fear of ruining your work.

      As you probably realize, MM offers several shades of metalizers…Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Gunmetal, Titanium and Magnesium. By choosing to buff the finish after painting – or by choosing not to buff the finish – you can achieve a total of 10 varying shades from the five offered. Even more if you opt to mix your own and airbrush the finish.

      ALWAYS apply a coat of Future prior to any masking…throughout the entire process. Once the Future dries, you can freely mask any part of it without pulling up the finish. By varying the shades of paint and buffing or not buffing, there are any number of contrasting panel effects that be accomplished quite easily with these rattle cans.

      I’m sure the other methods (SNJ, Alclad, etc.) are equally as good, some may even yield “better” results to different people, but for ease of application, clean-up and time involved, this is what I’ve found to be the most satisfactory to me.

      As always, this is only one modeler’s opinion and there are any number of folks out there light years ahead of me in talent and experience. I only offer this outline as a suggestion and I hope it has helped a little.

      Now….to answer your question, Jaime…it is extremely easy to apply. Simply shake/mix the paint in the can and spray as you would any other spray paint. It dries very, very quickly and if the above method is followed, you can achieve the desired result quite easily. Hope this helps and thanks for the reply.

  6. So you brush on the future? Wide soft brush? Man you sure can’t tell anything was brushed on, very nice!

    • Yep….wide, soft brush (and ya don’t need much on it, either) – no runs, drips or brush marks. I use a bottle of Testors DullCote for a flat finish sometimes and brush that on as well.

  7. Those are sharp, Craig. I like the Mig-19 best.

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