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Tamiya 1/48th P-47 Razorback

June 4, 2013 in Aviation

Well, despite the problem(s) encountered with the faux pas [dull] “Future” application and the attempt to remedy the ‘silvering’ situation, I think I’ll quit while I’m ahead. I now know that Pledge “multi-surface” is the product I need to look for, not simply [floor wax].
The kit itself was the usual Tamiya quality with little or no fit issues. A joy to build.
It (finally) turned out as ‘passable’ – I think – no thanks to me! I’m stickin’ a fork in it and movin’ on.

10 additional images. Click to enlarge

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31 responses to Tamiya 1/48th P-47 Razorback

  1. Craig, look for the one that says Pledge with Future. Don’t get the one that says “for wood floors.
    I don’t see the silvering in yours photo’s. Looks pretty good to me.

    • Believe it or not, applying a thin coat (a very thin coat) of liquid cement on the offending [silvered] decals – allowing it to dry completely (without touching it) and then putting dullcote over it, seemed to make 95% of the silvering effect disappear. I would never have dared apply liquid cement onto a painted (and decaled) surface….but it worked.

      • I once got the tip to make holes in the decals with a needle and apply some Tamiya acrylic paint thinner over them with a brush…. didn’t try it but it it should help against silvering.

        BTW; Very nice Jug!

      • The best solution to silvering decals is to take a sharp new #11 blade and slice them to pieces where they silvered, then slather on decal solvent. It will get under the decal, the slicing gets rid of the air trapped underneath that caused the silvering, and the decal will settle down and you won’t know it ever happened.

        • I thought about doin’ that (I’d done it before a few times), but someone else suggested another [easier] possible solution and it apparently worked. See my response to the 2nd post above. It wouldn’t have happened in the first place had I used the “correct” (new and improved) Future/Pledge.

      • have you been watching phil flory

  2. Nice work Craig.

    One thing, not a criticism, but information passed on for you and others: When P-47s were painted in camo at the factory (like this airplane), the flaps were painted before they were attached to the airplane; thus, the leading edge was also painted. The airplanes with silver leading edges came out of the factory in NMF and were given camouflage in the field, where the flaps were not lowered. This is little-known information, which I learned from the guys in the 78th FG while I was writing the book on them.

    It seems counter-intuitive that the flaps would have been painted at the factory before final assembly, but that’s the way it was.

    Presented for future use in future projects.

    • Again, information passed on by another modeler on HS ( a well-versed Thunderbolt modeler) – albeit too late for this build. I suppose I could “fix” it, but there were, according to the aforementioned unnamed modeler (whom I’m sure you know – at least by reputation), other ‘inconsistencies’ prevalent throughout the finishing process. The all-to-well-argued “behind the canopy color controversy”, wheel well/gear legs color, to name a few. I’ll be the first to admit I don’t always (ok….hardly ever) adhere to the color experts and rivet counters – even the ‘accurate markings’ folks – when it comes to my models. I usually do ’em up in whatever looks the part… or at least what I think looks the part. Other than the modelers on the forums [such as yourself], nobody sees my “model room” or the myriad of builds I have anyhow. And even if they did, most of ’em wouldn’t know what it was anyway…much less if it was ‘right’ or not. I have fun. It keeps me off the streets. it matters not to me. It’s relaxation. It’s a hobby. AND IT USED TO BE A CHEAP HOBBY BACK IN THE DAY….REMEMBER? Not no more, though. Think I’ll have shot of Jack Daniels and go to bed. 🙁

      • Fair comment Craig. Keep on doin’ what you do. At the end of the day it is a hobby to be enjoyed, and rightly so, especially in these relatively expensive times. Great T-bolt by the way 🙂

  3. That’s a nice looking Jug Craig! I like it a lot.

  4. future is junk…only good for canopies

    • Not necessarily….it works great as a sealer on my NMF finishes and as a base coat for decals (one can always apply a layer of Dullcote over it). Some folks even use it as an adhesive of sorts.

    • Well bob, I haven’t used any other product as a gloss coat for decals in more than 20 years. It always works good for me…perhaps I’ve just been lucky. Or, more likely, the Future formula has indeed been changed in the recent past and that might explain many builders’ problems with it? ymmv. 🙂

      • well that’s wonderful gary…and your models are brilliant…but i hate it and think it is way over rated

      • and you probably have to use micro set and sol…it runs like water…but your models are brilliant

        • Hey thanks bob! You know, decaling is one of the modeling “steps” that I enjoy most. Usually, I have no problems with them; unless they are really old. I use Testors’ Decal Set most of the time. I have an ancient
          ( well, 25 years old I guess) bottle of Solvaset that I use for particularly stubborn decals but that is only rarely done. My bottle of Future is several years old and if folks are having problems with the stuff recently made, then I might be looking for another product when I run out of my current stock.

  5. Hi Craig, first I’m certainlly no expert, but your airplane looks great to me, if I am able to turn out kits looking half as good I’d be happy! Second, you’re absolutely correct, this is a hobby for us to enjoy, if some people are happy being rivet counters on other peoples’ models then so be it. In my railway modelling days in the UK most “rivet counters” never made a model themselves! Third, in the UK we had a product called Johnsons floor polish, which I know a lot of people use as a finish, but I understand this is now difficult to get, maybe it’s the same as your Future?

  6. This is what I’m told took the place of Future (which is supposedly the same product)….I simply got the wrong one – mine doesn’t say ‘multi-surface’ on the label.

  7. and it clouds if you over do it

    • Well, it looks like we’re just not gonna convince ya are we, Bob…? You must’ve had a less than stellar experience with it, huh..?
      If it matters, I (for one), don’t try to airbrush Future/Pledge – thinned or not – I brush it on and it doesn’t leave streaks or runs. However, I did try using it to loosen decals rather than warm water as someone suggested and THAT didn’t work out so well.

      • i just can’t master it…it pools it clouds it runs on me and the decals just don’t snuggle down for me like good old fashion glosscoat cut with 30% lacquer thinner and i don’t need any set or sol they just melt in about 2 hours after i apply it…i’ve sandwiched instrument panels and they fall apart…tried to glue canopies and it ran up under where you could see it…no joy for the kid it’s hit or miss

        • Tell ya what, Bob….if you’ve got a boatload of Future and not ever gonna use it, I’ll!

          • i only have a half bottle i dip canopies in…i decant it into a dixie cup …dip my canopies then dump it back into the bottle…so it’s contaminated…i will say it has saved me many times when the canopy paint job went wrong…i simply dipped it in a dixie cup full of alcohol for a half hour and cleaned it back to a fresh start

      • i can usually remove decals with blue tape…press it down and give them a good j**k with kind of a twisting motion

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