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Hasegawa 48th Mustang

Not my best effort of late. “Hurry Up” got in the way – again. 🙁
Now that I see the photographic evidence, I find I have to once again apply a coat of Future; (the dreaded ‘silvering’ effect shows up).
Hasegawa’s engineering, fit and detail proved a “no issue” build, other than my self-inflicted ineptness. Once again, this is a ‘generic’ edition, with no particular aircraft depicted.
Some pics were taken sans flash, thus the subtle difference in the shade of the OD.

8 additional images. Click to enlarge.


19 responses to Hasegawa 48th Mustang

  1. Nice to see an OD P-51 and not the usual NMF P-51’s. Try Humbrol”s new Clear gloss varnish. I find that it works just as well as Future, if not better !!

  2. Looks pretty good from here Craig.

  3. Looks OK to me Craig, I normally use a Gloss varnish before decals to try and solve that problem.
    Nice build mate.

  4. Craig, in my experience all decal solvents leave decals glossy, which is what I think I’m seeing in your pictures, not silvering. That happens when you put down a flat coat, which reveals the air trapped under clear decal film. You can brush on Testor’s Acrylic Flat coat to kill the gloss on the decals.
    All that being said your Mustang looks pretty good from suburban Indy.

  5. Hello Craig….Nice looking Mustang there and like Morne said, it’s good to see an OD Mustang. I deal with that potential silvering issue pretty much as stated above. I airbrush a heavy coat of Testors gloss clear to the area where the decals will be applied. After they’re in place and fully dried, I shoot a clear flat coat over the entire bird to tie everything in. That usually works for me.

  6. beautiful job…love that under rated hase kit…the tamiya has that stupid two piece canopy and less cockpit detail…both are all right…nice build

  7. Don t know how, but i missed this, sorry !
    Nice P-51 Craig, looks good in OD, silvering decals can disturb the fun.
    Had problems with this too over the years, i spray a coat of future over the surfaces and polish the kit with a fine sanding paper or tooth paste, to get a really smooth surface, had worked in the past and the extra work is worth the spended time

  8. Hi Craig – always love a P-51, and you did a nice job on that. As others said, great to see it in O.D. I am going to go that route if I ever get around to Tamiya’s 1/32 thing. I had a look at your pics again to see the silvering you were talking about – from the photos, it appears it is just the different sheen of the decals, rather than silvering on the clear portions of them? (I didn’t see any of that in the pics) – so I am guessing another clearcoat on top of the whole airframe would solve the problem (as others said). Gunze or Tamiya clear coats in a spray can are what I use, and I love them.
    Overcoat or not, I like the build!

    • Thanks Paul….and you’re right, I used the word ‘silvering’ in the wrong sense of the word. As yourself and others have pointed out, it’s the gloss of the decals rather that the effect of applying decals to a flat finish, causing air bubbles [silvering[, which I most definitely did not do.

  9. Craig:
    Many, many years ago, I cut out and GLUED decals to an Aurora Me-109!
    My oldest friend reminds me about that when I get too full of myself.
    Yours looks pretty spectacular, compared to that.
    You can always really weather them, and argue that the pilot flew thru the fireball generated by his latest kill…..
    Thinking about that Mosquito, with ll the fabric burned off, revealing the plywood. Scorched aluminum/soot in your case.

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