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Tamiya 1/35th King Tiger

March 25, 2015 in Armor


I hadn’t done any armor pieces in quite some time (if that’s not already painfully obvious), and I acquired this one in a trade a few weeks back….it was a relaxing change of pace – especially given Tamiya’s great quality and fit. It included one figure (a tank commander), but as bad as I am painting figures, I closed it up instead. I chose a winter camo (don’t ask me why, I just figured most tanks are done in earth tones and I wanted something a little different). The base coat is Tamiya’s “Fine White Primer” and everything else was done with Doc O’Briens weathering powders. I hesitated to “dirty it up” TOO much and go overboard, but after looking at the pics, I suppose a tad more ‘grunge’ wouldn’t hurt. You guys that do a lot of armor stuff can feel free to “fire away” and gimme some do’s and dont’s, advice, suggestions, tips…..whatever will help me with my detail and weathering technique(s) – thanks.

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25 responses to Tamiya 1/35th King Tiger

  1. Very nice in white, good looking build.

  2. Craig, that white primer looks real good, as does the tank.
    Hard to say about grunge, a little goes a loong way.

  3. Nice camo, Craig. MIG do a Winter Streaking Grime that looks good applied to bolt heads etc., but you can make up something similar with white spirit and brown/black enamels used as a streaking wash. It would cut through any powders you’ve applied, but it all adds to the looks, especially around the road wheels.

  4. Good solid build Craig. I use white primer for winter camo too. I’d add more grime/dirt washes to the road wheels. A lot of the time they didn’t bother spraying white on these anyway.

  5. Wo! the wings have fell off pal, but it looks like it woulkd pack a punch?

  6. Nice Tiger Craig, like the winter camo.
    I built this kit back in the 70`s and she was a beaut then to build.
    Big as well…

  7. Nice Tiger, Craig. Just from the production line. I use thinned acylics for weathering. Not with the thinner but thinned with acrylic cleaner from Revell.
    Works for me and its more on the cheaper side of modelling.

    • Thanks, Bernd…other than the base primer coat, I only used some pre-mixed wash in a few places and the weathering powders. Think I’ll add a little more road grunge – especially to the wheels as suggested.

  8. Craig. someone told me once that in every tank theirs an airplane trying to get out, maybe that’s just in the sole of the builder. Nice work here. as for weathering, everything is clean at some point, but too much weathering is simply too much. You can’t wrong with a little. nice job !

  9. Nice mate! Very subtle weathering gives it a new look.
    I’m starting to think that less is maybe’s more when it comes to weathering. Every piece of armor was new once an sometimes I think the fantastic engineering and design of a tank can get lost under layers of mud. Especially in 1/35 where the detail can really be brought out.
    I’m building a BMPT right now which is a relatively new vehicle which has not actually seen much combat. I’m going to leave it completely un-weathered to give it a fresh out of the factory look.
    After all, all that really matters is how happy you are yourself with the model when it is sat in your collection, and I would be really happy with this!

    • Thanks, Richard….I did add a little more grunge to the road wheels as suggested previously. Hit a few spots on the body as well. Still didn’t go overboard with weathering, though. BUT…..I don’t think the winter camo was ever “new” – wasn’t that stuff rather sloppily applied in the field AFTER deployment to the front..?

      • Very true, but it could be freshly slopped on! The hairspray technique would work very well to simulate a worn winter camo, I’ve seen some good examples of this.

        • I’ve always heard about the “hairspray” technique, but never have tried it. How’s that work exactly…?

          • I’ve tried it a couple of times. You put down your base coat on the hull, for example completely cover it in tones of hull red, brown and orange to achieve a rusty finish. Next put down a protective coat of varnish, then completely cover the model with a couple of layers of hairspray straight from the can.
            Let that dry then put the camo or factory paint over the top of the hairspray coat. If you add water to the paint finish at this stage, it soaks through the top layer and dissolves the hairspray underneath allowing the top layer of paint to flake off, revealing the protected base coat under the varnish.
            You can chip the paint of with a knife or cocktail stick or take larger areas off using a brush or a toothbrush. This achieves a good 3D effect to simulate corroded areas or chips. You could then varnish over the factory paint and rusted areas again to protect it, then add another layer of hairspray with a winter white wash over the top and start the flaking process again to show field use and wear.
            There are also some chipping fluids available on the market to substitute for the hairspray, but I’m not sure how much better they are, I’ve never tried them. There are some great tutorials of the hairspray technique on you tube which can probably explain the process better than I can.

  10. That;s a pretty concise tutorial, Richard….don’t think I need to go to You Tube. I’ll have to try that process (I have [unfortunately] got a few ‘candidates’ on the “shelf of doom” with which I can practice this method). Thanks.

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