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NMF’s – the easy way….

As a follow-up to my reply in the comments of the post entitled “Soviet NMF Jets”, I’ve posted some of my examples as a testimony to the ease of employing this method. Here is the re-printed response:

First, spray the entire airframe the base color…the shade you want the overall aircraft to reflect. Using a piece of an old, soft T-shirt, lay the piece on your thigh or hold it in your other hand while vigorously rubbing the finish to a sheen. Be sure to remove any rings on your fingers…you’ll see why. It’s also a good idea to have some of those cotton gloves handy for getting into those tight places..not to mention keeping the residue off your hands.

Now, brush on a coat of Future to seal the finish. Their own brand of “sealer” has a tendency to dull the finish..believe me, I know. Now you can mask the piece with Tamiya tape or 3m Blue tape without fear of ruining your work.

As you probably realize, MM offers several shades of metalizers…Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Gunmetal, Titanium and Magnesium. By choosing to buff the finish after painting – or by choosing not to buff the finish – you can achieve a total of 10 varying shades from the five offered. Even more if you opt to mix your own and airbrush the finish.

ALWAYS apply a coat of Future prior to any masking…throughout the entire process. Once the Future dries, you can freely mask any part of it without pulling up the finish. By varying the shades of paint and buffing or not buffing, there are any number of contrasting panel effects that be accomplished quite easily with these rattle cans.

I’m sure the other methods (SNJ, Alclad, etc.) are equally as good, some may even yield “better” results to different people, but for ease of application, clean-up and time involved, this is what I’ve found to be the most satisfactory to me.

As always, this is only one modeler’s opinion and there are any number of folks out there light years ahead of me in talent and experience. I only offer this outline as a suggestion and I hope it has helped a little.

18 additional images. Click to enlarge.

15 responses to NMF’s – the easy way….

  1. InterestingCraig, I may give this a try. Always looking for new techniques.

  2. Well I don’t know how many guys are “light years” ahead of you, these are some of the best NMF aircraft I have seen!

  3. Thanks for the compliment, Rob…I’ve got this particular method of NMF down to a science – but some of my other techniques of modeling leave something to be desired. I keep making the same mistakes all over again.

  4. Craig….. Thanks for sharing your method to achieve those great natural metal finishes. Now I wish someone would bring out Future in a rattle can, then it would be the perfect system.

    • A nice thought, Jack, but Future/Pledge, being a floor wax, wouldn’t have much of a market for the average consumer if it were offered in a spray bottle. Next time I go shopping, I’ll look a little closer at the “options” on those shelves. Maybe there IS an alternative that would suffice – never thought about a spray. Brushing has always worked just fine for me (as long as you’re frugal with the brush-dipping step) – lol

  5. Are these the same that were (or maybe are?) available in “ordinary” tins as well? I remember using them with an airbrush and appreciating the finish! If I can get hold of the spraycans here in Sweden they would be nice to try!



    • These colors (and more), are also available in the 1/2 oz. line of the MM bottles as well – I seem to recall “Burnt Iron” as being among them – I have ‘Steel’ & ‘Brass’ in the small jars, along with the “usual” plethora of colors offered. The spray cans are available online if you can’t procure them in your area.

  6. Craig, is any primer or particular base color needed before you spray the finish coat?

  7. Thanks for the info! This should make my B-29 build easier.

  8. Hi Craig!

    I just now came across the pictures of your fantastic NMF models! I’ve got an F-89C in the stash on which I’m ready to start. I’ve built a couple of other F-89s using Floquil paints and I was happy with how they turned out but I feel they can be better.

    I really like the way your F-89 turned out! I know it’s been several years but do you remember what MM base coat you used on it? I really like the metallic sheen you achieved on it. It’s exactly the kind I’d like to achieve on my next Scorpion. I was thinking of trying to foil it but I’m not too good at foiling and I didn’t want to screw this plane up.

    • Hey Eric….the base was either Aluminum Plate or Stainless Steel (the others are a little darker) – I’m guessing the aluminum. Just spray it on and let it dry (it dries very quickly) and be sure to wear cotton gloves….COTTON gloves, not latex. Then always apply Future before masking off other panels for various shades. It’s pretty easy actually – and yields good results IMO. Give it a shot on a “scrap” piece first to get the “feel of it”. Good luck.

      • Thank you Craig! Yeah, I made the mistake once of using latex gloves to handle a model on which I had used MM metalizers. Ouch! I won’t make that mistake again.

        Out of curiosity, did you airbrush the Future on or did you use a brush to apply it?

  9. Hi Craig. Im new to this site and modeling after many year hiatus could you please share of where you found the display stand in one of your photos. i prefere this method of display. i use to create scenes with hanging planes from the ceiling. would like to do the display stand

  10. Hello, Robert (and welcome to iModeler)….at the time, I found them in a catalog from Micro-Mark, but I’m not sure if they still have them available. Perhaps a Google search for “Acrylic Pose-able Display Stands” may yield some results after you check on Micro-Marks website. HTH – 🙂

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