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1/48 Hasegawa F-86F-30

This was Major John Glenn's F-86F-30 in the late stage of the Korean war.
I just added the Aire cockpit detail set to make it more interesting. Unfortunately, this model's windshield is on the thick side, so the interior is hard to see.
I used Vallejo's metal colour. It turns out pretty well. A burnt sienna oil wash seems a bit on the heavy side. The brown hue comes out a bit too strong for my taste.

3 additional images. Click to enlarge.

30 responses

  1. I think it looks great.

  2. Looks amazing, Thomas!

  3. Nice colourful Sabre, Thomas. I don’t mind the brown wash, it looks suitably grimy. Another sweet build mate!

  4. Great build, Thomas.
    Well done.

  5. I love this model, I've got it in my mind. Very good job, congratulations

  6. Beautifully done- love your painting and weathering!

  7. Very striking, Thomas. Well done.

  8. Indeed, very striking Sabre! I like the overall weathered effect of the NMF. Beautiful

  9. Out of all the models you've posted recently this one's my favourite, the finish is just terrific, that oil wash isn't too heavy in my opinion. Definitely liked.

  10. My niggle on this one another, helping of photo's to show off your gifts and talents Thomas.
    What stands out in my mind is how you did a good job of darkening and lightening the various panels to make things interesting for the eye. Brown washes . . . brown is a warm color that helps soften the hard cool look of a metal aircraft. You don't always have to use one color or you can lighten it or thin it down. Use dark gray's in one area of the model and browns in another. Artistic freedom is a license to experiment. Aircraft use oil which can be brown and black, there is hydraulic fluid which can be a reddish purple, soot and grime, grease are more shades of black.

    Like the decals too. F-86's never have enough of them. ; )

    On the whole, a inspiration.
    Two thumbs up.

    • Thanks, Stephen. Yes, I was playing around with different shades of metal finishes. This is more like a test subject for my Eduard P-51D kit. I want to learn a bit more about metal finishes before I start on the P-51D. I think I am still trying to figure out if post-shading for NMF is needed.

  11. Very, very nice Thomas. Weathering is just right. I'd like to see some more photos. "Liked".

  12. About weathering a P-51, it depends on which P-51 you're doing, I suppose.
    Some were only weeks old when they were lost or the war ended.
    My personal thoughts are that many P-51 models look more worn than their respective real ones ever looked, but that's just my view from here.
    Nice job on my favorite F-86, and looking forward to your P-51.

    I have quite a few P-51 photos in my files, so if you're looking for pics of a specific one let me know by pm and I'll send you what I have, if I have it. If not photos of others in the same fighter group are helpful to show conditions, types of drop tanks used, etc.

    • Thanks, John. I have a Tamiya P-51 and an Eduard P-51 on my stash. I want to build the Tamiya one as a P-51 in the Korea war era. As for Eduard, most likely just one of their European theatre scheme.
      You are right; I think a lot of them will have a short service life. I will PM you when I decided which way to go. I am debating whether I should build one of them with ROCAF marking to join my trio of I-16, P43, and P47. In this case, it may be better to use a P-51B.

  13. Looks great! The paint work, decals and weathering all came out beautifully. I think the brown wash "dirties" it up nicely. Well done.

  14. Hi Thomas! Just got my hands on this same model from Hasegawa, and really appreciate your photos for reference as I research before the build...very sharp F-86, a classic! Personally, I like the wash effect you applied, it delivers a great deal of depth and contrast to all that metal. I'm going with several shades of Alclad for the body, looking forward to experimenting and going beyond my traditional use just for afterburners.

    • Thanks. I used Vallejo's metal finish on this plane. I would think Alclad will give a better finish.
      This one is from Eduard, which used the Hasegawa kid with additional Eduard parts and decals.
      If I had to do this again, I would paint the yellow bands instead of decals.

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