I use Windex for tripping off Tamiya and Model Master acrylics. works great, no issues and strips the paint off in very little time. after paint is stripped off, wash in dish soap as would be expected. No issues encountered when re-painting.
... after I have spent so much money on 'Cleanslate'!
Looks good and will try, but what about clear parts (transparencies)? I have two (expensive) Tamiya 1/48 Fiesler Storch kits, both with completely ruined clear parts.
My life would be complete if someone could tell me how to get them back to new...!
With transparencies, I do use Future/Pledge/Klear (F/K/P), but only after gently wiping around each transparent section with Revell's 'Paint Remover' solution using a cotton bud. Admittedly, I usually do this as a result of gunk accumulating on the clear areas during the build but you'd need to try it on an old transparency to see if it also works on areas you've perhaps already taken a sanding stick or fine wet'n'dry paper to; once the paint remover has dried, the clear areas can sometimes go cloudy, but just wait for about five minutes and then apply the F/K/P. I use a relatively small, pointed brush to apply a little of this to each clear part so it can take a little time to get round all the clear areas, but it's worth it. If you leave the paint (I use enamels) on the frames to dry thoroughly before trying the above technique, then the paint remover shouldn't actually remove too much, if any, paint if you just work carefully without too much pressure on the applicator, eg perhaps a cotton bud or small soft-bristled brush.
This technique is also great for older models that have acquired a layer of dust on clear areas. This is where the paint remover really comes into its own before applying the F/K/P.
I use Windex for tripping off Tamiya and Model Master acrylics. works great, no issues and strips the paint off in very little time. after paint is stripped off, wash in dish soap as would be expected. No issues encountered when re-painting.
I'll be getting to windex and oven cleaner a little later down the line!
Amazing how everyday "consumables" can find other uses.
Thanks for sharing, Tam!
Absolutely, my friend !
... after I have spent so much money on 'Cleanslate'!
Looks good and will try, but what about clear parts (transparencies)? I have two (expensive) Tamiya 1/48 Fiesler Storch kits, both with completely ruined clear parts.
My life would be complete if someone could tell me how to get them back to new...!
Thanks
I would try Johnsons Future/Klear/Whateveritscallednowadays
Let me know how it works out, i have a couple of shady clear parts in some old kits myself and would be interested if thats a remedy
With transparencies, I do use Future/Pledge/Klear (F/K/P), but only after gently wiping around each transparent section with Revell's 'Paint Remover' solution using a cotton bud. Admittedly, I usually do this as a result of gunk accumulating on the clear areas during the build but you'd need to try it on an old transparency to see if it also works on areas you've perhaps already taken a sanding stick or fine wet'n'dry paper to; once the paint remover has dried, the clear areas can sometimes go cloudy, but just wait for about five minutes and then apply the F/K/P. I use a relatively small, pointed brush to apply a little of this to each clear part so it can take a little time to get round all the clear areas, but it's worth it. If you leave the paint (I use enamels) on the frames to dry thoroughly before trying the above technique, then the paint remover shouldn't actually remove too much, if any, paint if you just work carefully without too much pressure on the applicator, eg perhaps a cotton bud or small soft-bristled brush.
This technique is also great for older models that have acquired a layer of dust on clear areas. This is where the paint remover really comes into its own before applying the F/K/P.