1/32 Dassault Mirage III (BMF presentation)
BMF Models Under Natural Light: A Three-Time Test
To let them soak in sunlight, feel the breeze, and sit among real shadows instead of artificial ones? That's always been my preference—moving away from studio setups with fully controlled lighting, and instead embracing what nature can offer. Aircraft models, especially those with bare metal finishes, come alive under the sun. The textures, reflections, and subtle tones reveal themselves in a way no studio light can replicate.
For this project, I photographed the model at three different times:
- First, in the soft shade of late afternoon around 3–4 PM.
- Then after 7 PM, bathed in the golden glow of sunset.
- And finally, at noon the next day, when sunlight bounced off the floor, helping to sculpt the curves of the aircraft's surface through reflection.
Looks really nice, especially under the sun, Alex!
Well done!
That Mirage is captured beautifully with natural lighting, Alex @superdad1688
Your models and their pictures are great, Alex, but posting all your models at once knocks everyone else off the front page, iModeler is a social modelling site………
Nice work, Alex. Impressive model and photography. Is this the 1/32nd Revell or Italari Mirage III? It's tricky to find the right light to photograph an all metal BMF finish. As you suggest, sunlight seems best to even things out. I have found a very light background can help reflect and distribute the light a bit.. The image below is of a Bare Metal Foil CF-104 I did shot in bright sunlight through a window indoors, posed against white foam board. A second image shows the same model shot outdoors in sunlight against a dark background, more detail but not as pleasing to the eye, IMO. BTW, does BMF for the Mirage mean you actually used foil? That would be a huge job in 1/32.
2 attached images. Click to enlarge.
It's a beautifully built CF-104.
I’ve tried foil-wrapping before, but not on this one.
I’ve always been curious—why are most model kit box arts done in oil painting? Could there be a technique that surpasses these familiar scenes?
Since last year, I’ve been exploring a personal approach I call the “Inca drill.” It involves using hand-painting to recreate the bumpy, stressed surface texture often seen on late-stage Japanese WWII fighters. This time, though, the result didn’t quite match my expectations.
But the journey continues—I’m still experimenting, still learning.
Nicely done!
That's some nice work with an original take on weathering! Food for thought...
By the way, the kit I got from eBay came with no box, no decals, and no instructions—it was pretty rough. Fortunately, I’m used to working with putty to fill gaps and CA glue to fix minor alignment issues, so that part didn’t bother me too much.
The only aftermarket item I used was the TopNotch 1/32 Mirage III C Metal (Red Flash) Camo Mask.
Using masking instead of water decals was a new experience for me—and honestly, a refreshing one.