Here are a few pictures I found online a few years ago.
This propeller seems to be laminated from various layers of wood, similar to how the Germans did it with the “Axial” props you often saw on Albatros, Dr-1’s and D-7’s. But the wood species seems to be the same and are not too much of a different color like the different layers of wood found on the Axial props.
The cockpit / interior:
If you look close, the inside of the fabric is a different color than what you would expect. This is probably a modern iron on type material. The original would have used a doped linen. The interior color of doped linen would look to be lighter than the outside color. This color would depend on what color dope they applied first, before the final PC -10 color was used. Often they used a clear dope, so the inside would look more like a “dark” natural linen.
The dope was used to seal the weave of the fabric, (making it more weather proof) and it also helped to shrink the covering tightly around the wooden structure that lied beneath. It was not uncommon for several coats of dope to be applied. But believe it or not, this “multiple coats thing” was occasionally limited for weight concerns……………. and costs versus production time came into play as well.
If you look close, you can see a spare Lewis MG drum stored on top of the IP. Can you imagine having to change out a drum during a dog fight ???
Here’s the same plane before they painted it in PC 10. Here again you see the light gray color on the fabric covered areas. Some of the lower areas appear to be painted in aluminum dope, also something a new replica would have to help extend the service life of the fabric materials.
Here’s a close up of the under carriage: You can see more aluminum paint here…………….
I was keeping these to use as a reference when it came time to detail the 1/6 scale RC flying model I eventually plan on building.
When I paint a wooden prop, I first start off by spraying a shade of a solid tan color to use as the base. Then I go back with oils or even darker colors of brown and “dry brush” the darker browns on. The tan base doesn’t have to dry, if it blends in, this helps to get the natural wood look you’re going after.
Here’s a final picture. I may have more if you need them…………..
I hope these help………………… and Bernie would be proud as a peacock !!!!