Hs 129 (Hasegawa/MN Hobby) and Curtiss-Wright CW-21B (Dora Wings) 1/48 builds

Started by Dmitry Stropalov · 24 · 1 day ago · . 1/48, DoraWings, Hasegawa, Hs129
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    Dmitry Stropalov said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    These are the two builds I'm currently working on. The main intention was to build something different and a bit unusual.

    The Hs 129 caught my eye a long time ago. I don't know why, but the nose and fuselage look like something out of Star Wars. And when I discovered a Hasegawa repack from the Czech company MN Hobby with good 3D printed additions (MK 101 and 103 guns, exhausts, landing gear, gun sight), I couldn't resist. The kit comes with masks made of Kabuki tape, which is also cool. CMK also released wheels, cockpit, landing gear, main wheel bays and armament resin sets for the kit recently. I bought the wheels, will see how it goes.

    I also had a GWH seat belts set for years. To be honest, I failed to assemble it the first time, but I decided to give it another try. And after three or four hours I've got a seat belts set for the model.

    At this point the Henschel is ready for painting. The kit is simple and fits well, so there is really nothing to talk about. Priming will show all the problems, but I hope to start painting soon. I'm aiming for the African scheme with the Mk 101 cannon.

    The Curtiss-Wright CW-21B Interceptor (or Demon) is another story. To be fair, I didn't know about this aircraft until I saw the Dora Wings kit. And there is a whole story behind this aircraft and its operations in WWII in the Dutch AF in Asia. And also I think it looks unusual and cool. This would be my first Dora Wings kit. I know it's a short run kit, but of good quality. The engine looks very well detailed.

    I was positively surprised with the overall surface quality - polished and smooth. But I might have to do some more scribing on the panel lines. The dry fit didn't show any problems.

    The only thing I found is that the canopy is a bit too long, so I'll have to remove about 0.5 mm to make it fit. The canopy itself is a bit thick, but very clear. The kit also comes with masks made of Oramask 810, as I see. Not good for a curved surface, but it could be used as a template.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    An interesting pair of kits, Dmitry (@starfar). Looking forward to both builds. I just finished a 1/48 Dora Wings kit. It was a nice kit, but I approached the kit as a high-end limited run kit. Test fit everything. I got blindsided with some ill-fitting parts, and a couple of glaring errors in the instructions.

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    John Healy said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    Interesting projects, Dmitry. I like that Curtiss fighter. I built the Dutch two seater and enjoyed it.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    Great dual entry and equally great progress an both, my friend @starfar!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    A great pair of kits, Dmitry @starfar
    That Hs129, which I personally also like a lot, will look great in desert scheme together with all those extras.
    Looking forward to the Curtiss as well, great start on both.

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    @gblair I absolutely agree. It looks like the 3D model has been adjusted because I don't see some elements on the parts that are shown in the instructions. And especially when it comes to the engine, the instructions are not clear at all. And test fit everything, everything.

    @j-healy I checked out your build - great model! You made an interesting comment about the decals - are they really good? I'm thinking of making masks for the national insignia, as I haven't worked with the Dora Wing decals before.

    @fiveten Thank you!

    @johnb I always choose the desert scheme when I can 🙂

    Both kits have issues with the instructions. Let's start with Henschel. I was looking at the photo of the prototype and realized it has an antenna mast. It's got a triangle on it.

    The instructions didn't mention it, but luckily the kit has the part I need. The model was already primed, but I wasn't planning on installing it before painting it (same goes for the pitot tube). I usually break these things, so I'll paint it separately and install it at the end. I just drilled the position hole.

    Then there were the white areas. Kit's instructions say it should only have the white stripe and white nose, but the SWS instructions (which include the same variant) say there were white stripes on the bottom of the wings too. So I did them too. Also, it looks like there should be an emblem on the nose, but the kit's decal sheet doesn't offer one. I'm not sure what to do about it.

    While the white paint is drying, I've switched to the Curtiss. I'll admit, this kit is a bit of a puzzle. To close the fuselage, you've got to put together the cockpit and the engine.

    Like most short-run kits, this one doesn't come with position pins. As for the cockpit, I pre-assembled it using the fuselage as a template. I'd like to paint these parts separately, but as George said, I should test-fit everything, and there is no other way - only glue some parts together. Everything else will be painted and then installed. I also glued the tail wheel section. It'll need a little sanding, but it's not a big deal.

    The engine is more interesting. Not having any pins on the exhausts isn't helpful at all, especially since every pipe is made of two parts. So, you glue and adjust it so that it's a perfect fit for the engine. The exhausts were drilled, but will need some sanding. Actually, everything will need some sanding.

    I had another question about the front engine part. Do you know what those pins between the cylinders are for? I don't see anything like that on the photos of real engines.


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    George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Great work on both, Dmitry (@starfar). I really like the black primer, which gives you some options when creating a well used paint scheme. On fuselages without alignment pins, I have sometimes created my own tabs using pieces of plastic strip, especially on long, straight areas of the fuselage. I like to paint as much as I can before assembly, but it always leads to repainting and touchups in kits like this. The engine looks nice, but the cockpit looks a little primitive. Looking forward to the rest of these builds.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Excellent job so far, my friend @starfar! Not sure what these pins on the engine are for.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Some amazing progress on both Dmitry @starfar

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 6 days, 20 hours ago:

    Henschel was painted. For me, this is the most creative and enjoyable phase of a build. I like to see how paint covers a surface. It's very meditative. The base colors (white, RLM65, RLM74, RLM79) are AMMO ATOM acrylics, the RLM80 mottling is Hataka lacquer. I base black, but don't marble. Instead I do post shading now - it's more controllable I think. Now I will continue with the clear coat and decals.

    Work on Curtiss continues as well. The cockpit is ready for painting, but I still have to finish the engine assembly before I can apply the primer. I've installed the firewall to be able to install the engine mount next. PE parts are extremely stiff. I tried annealing the seat belts with a lighter (it helped me with Voyager PE), but it doesn't help much. So brute force helped.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 days, 17 hours ago:

    You are really moving on these, Dmitry (@starfar). The desert camo on the 129 is one of my favorite paint schemes for this plane. I am using some really old and thick PE on my current build and I am finding a pair of pliers indispensable for bending.

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 6 days, 16 hours ago:

    @gblair Yes, old PE sets can be very challenging. I recall the use of annealing being mentioned in the instructions themselves. Can't remember which manufacturer it was. But it helped me a few times. Get a part amoust red with lighter and than it bends much easier. It's all different these days. With Eduard I don't even know if it is still PE, or some kind of laser cut when it comes about their seat belts. Looks like it's not brass anymore and it's very thin.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 days, 16 hours ago:

    Hi,Dmitry (@starfar): Back in the old days, I used to keep a small butane torch on the workbench specifically for annealing, but I haven't had to do that in a long time. I am currently using a really old True Details set for a Monogram P-40, so both are really old. This old PE is very thick. I suspect the newer Eduard is probably aluminum. It really does bend a lot easier, but the color comes off if it is bent too much. I really like the new 3D sets like Quinta. You don't even need to cut them out or bend them, just dip them in water.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 6 days, 11 hours ago:

    Both look excellent and I love your paintwork on the Henschel, my friend @starfar!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 6 days, 8 hours ago:

    Camouflage on the Henschell looks really wonderful, Dmitry @starfar
    Also the work on the Curtiss progresses nicely.