Wardell Bridge, 1/72, scratch build, WIP

  • 254 posts
  • Last reply 7 months, 1 week ago
  • 1/72. Bridge, diorama, WIP
Viewing 181 - 195 of 254 posts
  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 2 weeks ago:

    It takes at least 24 hours for the mache to be touch-dry. Within the first few hours of setting, air bubbles arise in some places. I use a pointed bamboo stick to let the air out, and damp down the mache with a wet brush . Warning: don’t use your fingers on damp mache, it will stick to your fingers.

  • david leigh-smith said 10 months, 2 weeks ago:

    The ‘reality quotient’ here is off the scale. Comparing the actual to the model is terrifically satisfying. It’s funny however when you talk about the ‘shire’, I keep getting images of hobbits.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Yes, it is a small world. 😉
    I keep getting images of Sherwood Forest and Robin Hood.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Finally finished applying the paper mache. Need to wait at least three days of drying before painting (next week). Will be doing other stuff in the meantime.

  • Louis Gardner said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    I’ve said it before………………. and I’ll say it again.

    This is amazing stuff !!!!!!!! I especially like the water rippled effects. You have captured the wake of the boats perfectly……………… It looks very realistic, and will look even better once you have it painted.

    The same can be said for the piling supports in the water. The way you have the surface of the water flowing around them is very convincing.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks Louis @lgardner. I had plans of doing more around the bridge footings, but was too lazy to follow that up. So, the way it is, nobody can say it the tide is coming in or out. But it must be a bit windy, because the water surface is slightly choppy.

    Once it gets painted, I will give a light coat of PVA to seal the paint. Then add a coat of high gloss floor varnish to make it look real wet. Have previously done a test strip, and four coats of varnish almost smooths out the ripples.

    The lesson from the test strip: The first coat is as shiny as it gets. More coats gives some depth to the water. Also smooths out the ripples to look less choppy _ the varnish fills in the hollows.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    My plan with the water is to bring about some educational value. That is, the reason the bridge span is located where it is (not centre) is because the river is deepest that that point. However, the river is basically monotone lentil-pea soup colour (brown-green). It does not lend itself to show water depth.

    To show depth, I will need to paint the river with different shades of colour. Below is a rough guide as to the different colours I want to use. Of course the coloured bands will (hopefully) blend into each other. But on application the whole thing may look different.

    There is another matter to consider with painting the river. The background painting needs to match the colours of the river along the back edge. So I decided to add a card strip along this edge. It too will get painted as part of the river. Later, I will use this strip as a colour reference for the background painting.

    Making a thin wooden shelf.

    Adding the card to the shelf.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Oh boy, I sure stuffed up the paint job. Only done 1/10th of the water. Started along the river banks. The dirty water look became too brown, opaquish, blotchy, and dark on outer edge.

    It’s been a long time since doing any painting, and have forgotten basic principles. The rest of the river will contain blues and greens, which is not mixed with the brownish areas already painted. Need to repaint what I have done with a better colour mix. But first, I need to paint a background tone to get rid of that stark white as a comparison.

    Hope to improve on this.

  • Louis Gardner said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    I’m sure you will figure this out. Sometimes we have to take a step back to move forwards, if that makes any sense…………………. and they say that everything happens for a reason.

    Can you use the brown as a base for another top coat of a different color ??? Just letting enough of the brown to show through ??? It might make for a smoother transition to the blues and greens between the water and the shore.

    From what I have seen from visiting various lakes and rivers, the green (and brownish green) colored water is normally more shallow, and the darker blues are more deep. Just like you have posted in one of your pictures above.

    However the aquamarine and turquoise colors are more of a “tropics” or beach shore line type setting. Something like you would expect to see on a Pacific Island (or something from the Caribbean).

    I have been thoroughly enjoying watching the progression on this build, and will be looking forward to your next installment.

  • david leigh-smith said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    This is breathtaking in range and depth (no pun intended). Like Louis, I’m sure you’ll nail the water with a little experimentation and reacquainting yourself with your inner artist.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks Louis and David for input and support.

    Louis, I would love to use the transparent look of clear tropical waters, but that would be so way out of normal for Wardell’s Richmond River, which is basically brown-green. Along river bank waters edge, I will need to use similar colour as the muddy bank and then work out towards a milky brown-green-blue. Then work towards more green-blue.

    Normally I would use a wash, but that does not work on 3D rippled water. What happens is the liquidy paint settles into a pool at the ripples hollow. The ridges become light and the pooled paint becomes dark. There is no transistion between light and dark, just light and dark. Further washes adda to the dark, making for even stronger light-dark distinction. It is better for me to paint the water surface straight from paint tude, then later dry-brush the ripple ridges with same colour but lighter.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months ago:

    Got half way with the basic blending one shade with the next. Once the basic coverage is done, there is still lots more to do.

    Starting from waters edge, I was assumed the water/wet mud and rocks would look darker, yet mliky due to dirty water. As the water gets deeper, the milky dirt browns take over. Then green got mixed into it (according to some silly plan of mine). 🙂

    Lots of detail stuff to be added later. Hoping the overall effort will improve the general appearance of the river. We will see.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months ago:

    After finishing the basic colours for the river, I went for a needed bike ride. It has not rained for over a week and Richmond River, near the ocean, is very clear. Could not help notice a similar teal colour to what I have been painting. Took photos to show that such waters are not too overboard as such. Though, 20 miles up river, where Wardell Bridge is, is still dirty green.

    So far . . .

  • david leigh-smith said 10 months ago:

    Fantastic comparison shots, always nice for us to have a frame of reference for a personal build. Your water looks marvellous, Peter. Also, I have o say that the ‘Kraken’ shot made my day when I discovered it this morning. Modeling genius, no less.

  • Peter Hausamann said 10 months ago:

    Thank you David. Well, it takes a lot of imagination to see the ‘Kraken’. However, I have already installed something that will help others to see the Kraken from the bouy. You will see it when I post detail updates of the water surface.

Viewing 181 - 195 of 254 posts