Final Countdown -F14A VF-84 Jolly Rogers, A6m Zero

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  • Last reply 5 hours, 26 minutes ago
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  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 9 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hi Jeff, thanks, the Tam kits are good despite their age, simpler fine raised panel lines. I do like the “clipped wing” version of the Zero. Built that a few years ago. The Hase kits are excellent mouldings that were produced 15-20 years after the Tam kits. But like the Monogram kits of old, the first generation 48th Tamiya kits have held their own over the years. The Hase kits are a bit more, but you can find them from 15-30 USD on the Hase kits, the early Tam kit 10-20 USD. Just watch out for some outrageous shipping charges that will kill what looked like a good deal.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 9 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Now to build the cockpit.

    I have built an A6m2 Zeke before back in the mid 90’s. It was the Tam kit. A good kit for the time, and long before any of the Hase kits came along. But now with much better and updated information we have today, which most didnt have 20 years ago. Even now there is still debate, Japanese aircraft still can be a mystery at times. Not so uniform like the Luftwaffe, The RAF and the US were more in keeping to same colors, (ok the Navy can get a little bit wild at times) interior wise. Japan, with Nakajima, Mitsubishi, Kawasaki and other aircraft producers using their own interior colors at times, field mods etc, can leave most wanting. The first Zero I believe I used Aotake (a metallic blue or blue coating over aluminum with a hint of green depending how heavy it was applied) for the interior. Anyway I used Tamiya cockpit interior green for this build. The Eduards PE color used is close. First building the seat attach the lap belts and installed the seat to the floor of the cockpit.

    Next to work on the side panels. A little wash and install the PE bits.

    Next to remove the PE side consoles and install them to LS cockpit side panel. Bend to shape.

    Then to work on the rear bulkhead and install the lever.

    Then place the assy in its spot on the cockpit floor and align. Also at this time I attached the RH side panel to help keep it aligned,

    I also assembled the instrument panel and added the PE enhancement bits to really make it stand out. Again don’t have that steady hand to pick out the details anymore. Though I do enjoy doing that.
    Also about to add the gun stocks that protrude over each corner of the IP. Painted these black and dry brushed with steel.

    Next to add the pedals and control stick and attach them to cockpit floor.

    Before attaching the LH side panel, test fit the whole assy to the RH side fuselage, looks good.

    Finally attach the IP assy and install the LH side panel. And this completes the interior.

    Next to assemble the fuselage, and get to the wings.
    More to follow.

  • david leigh-smith said 9 months, 1 week ago:

    Now, THIS is a Work in Progress. Loads of great photos and fantastic skills (that PE work is just so neat and precise).

    Could watch this all day, Chuck.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 8 months, 4 weeks ago:

    Quick update on the Zero.

    After a quick test fit of the cockpit. Which was very good I then attached the LH fuselage half and cemented them together.

    A shot of the IP from rear ward view

    Next up is to install the upper gun troughs insert. This will take a couple of swipes of sanding to clean the seam. No filler needed.

    Next up the wings. more to follow.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 8 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Next up is to install the horizontal stabs. And build the engine.

    Hase has the stabs in this kit as 1 piece un-poseable tail. Each stab attaches quite easily as you insert each one into the slot in the rear fuselage.

    Next to assemble the engine. Nice well defined detailed Sakae radial engine.

    First painting all the engine parts flat black. Then overall Vallejo steel.

    The engine crankcase cover also have the pushrods molded with the cover. Nice touch from Hase.

    The pushrods are painted black and the piece is attached to the engine.

    At this point the crank case cover is steel, but will paint it light grey.

    The engine is just temporarily installed on the fuselage, still have the exhaust ring to paint before installing it permanently. A little more work to do on the fuselage before I will attach it.

    Next the cowl and install the wings. More to follow.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    With the Zero portion well along time to get the Tomcat started. And as I normally do with swing wing aircraft, I start with the wings.

    I have several Hasegawa kits in the stash. I have built a Monogram/Revell F-14D and an Academy F-14A in this scale. This will be my first attempt on the Hasegawa kit. I do not have any Hobby Boss F-14’s and most likely won’t get any but I did get a Tamiya F-14D recently and it’s beautiful. Knowing what I will be looking forward too in reading the build reviews over the years of this kit. The heartaches of installing resin upgrades. This kit is fine as it is. Lots of parts in this kit. It is labor intensive as was the Monogram and the similar Academy(as it is basically a copy of the Monogram kit with engraved panel lines, though they did mess up on the nose profile a bit). You can buy one each of the Academy and Revell kit to one Hasegawa. And to this day still pricey. Though much better deals on these since the release of the Tamiya twins and the upcoming release of the AMK F-14D and probably a follow on after their initial release.
    The wings can be built either fully deployed with flaps and slats hanging. Or fully swept back all closed up. As this is quite a large fighter and takes more space than a B-25 type medium bomber, I will configure this kit fully swept. The wing panels are 2 pieces upper and lower halves.

    Being a newer re-pop of the F-14A, the molds are beginning to show their age. As there is quite a bit of flash on the parts. Very un-Hasegawa.

    So after a bit of clean up. The wings are true in shape, no warpage. each wing are assembled.

    The flaps are removed and again some flash needs to be trimmed away. The flaps are of 2 pieces, the main flap and then an insert over the flap actuators

    [ pic10]
    To display the flaps in the fully close position. You first need to remove a part of the hinge on each actuator which allows to deploy in the down position. By cutting these off, it allows the flap to fully close into the wing in it’s proper setting.

    Once you cut these off you can then place the flap in position and then install the flap inserts into place.

    Now the work on the flaps are completed. Now to start on the slats.

    A review on the process of installing the flaps.

    The slat actuators need to be cut off to display the slats in the fully closed position.

    The slat itself has a bit of flash to trim away, otherwise for long narrow piece that can be subject to be warped was not and fits perfectly into the wing.

    Both wings are assembled and Tamiya Gloss White has been applied to the under surfaces of the wings.

    More to follow.

    1 additional image. Click to enlarge.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Getting back to the Zeke. With some motivation from Louis and his great first Japanese color research installment. This step I will assemble and attach the wings.

    Typical main lower wing with LH/RH upper wing panels.

    And a bit of a curve a separate intake scoop center section that attaches forward of the lower wing in the fuselage. This piece will also have a bit of the main gear bay.

    So this does make a normal routine a bit complicated when checking for alignment when we attach all the involved components.
    First a baffle will need to be inserted into the scoop before installing this section with the wing/fuselage point.

    Then slip the lower wing and place the upper panels up against the fuselage and work your way out to the wing tips assembling the wing to the air frame.

    Once that the cement sets, I will go over some seam cleanup.. Me not being careful. But no much to clean.
    At this time I will assemble the drop tank as well. Once finished a bit of clean up here also.

    Next up is to build the prop more to follow.

  • Chaz Sutherland said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Such an awesome build (and thread) Chuck. I’ve been out-of-pocket with all my grow’d up obligations and thought to check in and catch up with the group build, while I had a small window of time to do so. Holy schnikey! Progress has definitely been made. At first, I thought I’d get through ten or so of these threads, but this one gobbled up my evening—happily so btw—so just three threads will have to do. Well, back to being grow’d up. 😀

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Thanks Chaz, I feel exact same way. Each build I learn something new. Not only building but from others as well. Taking history all over again which was my favorite subject in school. Some threads will be fascinating. Now I hope this inspires you to share some more of your work.

  • david leigh-smith said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Don’t grow up, Chaz…it’s a trap!

  • Louis Gardner said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    You have made a lot of progress since the last time I checked in. The Zero is looking especially nice !!!!!

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 7 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Thanks Louis, the Zeke is progressing rather rapidly, and looking forward to finally painting it with the latest information compare to the ones built almost 20 years ago. Based not only on your new info but on the latest information from reliable Japanese aircraft websites that are quite amazing.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 6 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Motivated by my own review of the Tamiya Tom, a bit more prepainting, in this case the dive brake wells in MM Insignia Red also painting the Dive brake inners doors as well. One thing I didn’t mention is this nice detail in posing the dive brakes open or closed. The Tam kit does not feature this option.

    Next was to paint the leading edge Vallejo aluminum on the leading edges of the wings. The wings are done. Will decal them on a future date.

    Finally to get started in on the cockpit.

    The tub is one piece and bare. Hasegawa will have you add the various side consoles and instrument panels. The is a good approach as it allows easier detail painting on each of the consoles and panels. Carefully add each part. This is crucial as there is a fit issue on this as read from several reviews in regard to this part of the build. So lots of test fitting along the way.

    Starting with the RIO’s (rear cockpit section) I paint and add one PE bit and attach the LH rear console panel. Making sure the console is flush with the inner side of the cockpit tub. Other wise it will interfere when mounting it into the fuselage half.

    Next the RH front console. Is trimmed, painted and attached. Also an Eduard PE panel as well.

    The rudder pedals are removed trimmed and attached to the cockpit floor.

    Next the rear pedals are attached.

    Tamiya Clear Green is applied to the various screens on the Eduards clear film.

    Next is to attach the LH front consoles.

    The first screen that is on the RH side of the Rios compartment is trimmed and ready to be attached into its space on the cockpit tub.

    Then the RH side rear console is installed.

    Next the very prominent bus fuse panels located on both rear panels just on either side of the seat in the Rios compartment.

    The center bulkhead panel that separates the front and rear compartments is trimmed and attached to the cockpit tub.

    The Rios center console is trimmed and attached.

    The Rios Joy stick has lots of flash to clean up, after it’s removal from the sprue tree. Then attach it to the Rios center console right after also attaching a PE console then the joy stick.

    Next up building the rear instrument panels and completing the cockpit portion of the build.

    More to follow

  • Michael E Rieth said 6 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Really coming along. Isn’t it fun going back and forth between the kits? This is a 2fer WIP in one.

    On my iModeler at the Movies project, I find that I’m keeping my Mojo by jumping from one subject to another and back again, as I’m waiting for something to dry, get at the LHS or arrive in the mail. As I’m working on one kit, I’m thinking about how to do something on another.

  • Louis Gardner said 6 months, 3 weeks ago:

    This is really looking good Chuck. I like how it is a two for the admission price of one !!!

    I have found this true for me too. Having several kits underway at once helps me to keep my mojo going as well.

    I heard the group “Europe” on the radio a few nights ago. I like to listen to classic rock, and they were your typical hair band from the 80’s. They radio station was playing the song “The Final Countdown”. I immediately thought about this build.

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