The Bridge on the River Kwai

Started by Peter Hausamann · 186 · 6 years ago
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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks, Louis, for that information. You, and anybody else, is more than welcomed to contribute to this build. Much appreciated.

    Louis @lgardner, adding 'Minder' to the mix helps me to get some balance. A sort of art therapy.

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    The original base plate had a slight bow. Adding a larger base, with an opposing bow (from same resource) ought to cancel the bow. Also, the new base will accommodate an all around slot for dropping in a Perspex display case cover, as previously mentioned.

    'Minder' has poor work safety sense. Here he is giving me a hand _ almost literally.

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    david leigh-smith said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Peter, this thread has taken on a life and significance of its own. The photography is beautiful, the writing is sublime, and the build itself is instructive, creative, and executed with grace. To top it all off is a moral direction that is both admirable and speaks volumes of the man you are.

    Bravo.

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thank you David for such kind words. It must be a reflection of your own heart my friend.

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Creating a bevel frame for the 3 mm Perspex sheets that will encase the diorama. Used scrap 3mm Perspex, plus 1 mm card, for a gap spacer during construction.
    Not having a jig for cutting angles, I made a few initial errors (top right). Glued and nailed the frame to the base.

    'Minder' is asking why I added an extra row of piers. The last position where a pier would be is where the bridge deck joins the land. The pier is not needed.
    So now I have six spare piers, which will become handy. Last night I was thinking of making a few more piers just for showing POWs debarking tree trunks for piers. Now I have six for this mini diorama.

    As soon as I started applying wood putty, the spalulate broke. It was a reasonably new. Lucky I still had my old spatulet of over twenty years.

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    gary sausmikat said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Hey Peter. Man, you are moving along nicely and it's looking great! In the words of Col. Saito..."Be happy at your work"

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks Gary for visiting this build log, and words of encouragement. I am only moving along up till now. Tomorrow I will return to the other bridge, Wardell bridge, for a while. Then back here whenever I can.

    Somehow I find that saying of Col. Saito somewhat bittersweet 😉

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Sanded the display base. I am now finished here for awhile. Will be returning to the Wardell Bridge model.
    I've given 'Minder' a furlough before he disappears on a Bender.

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    David Mills said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Wonderful to see this taking shape Peter!

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks David @davem.

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    James B Robinson said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Beautiful work Peter, really well done!

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    david leigh-smith said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    ‘Minder’ deserves his break, he has put in a good shift and highlighted several important modeling foundations. I love the base for the case! If there is any chance you could make a plan for these bases you could make a fortune - I was looking at tamiya products for 1/350 ships that you’d need a mortgage to buy. Seriously expensive, low quality - really disappointing.

    This is a stunning thread, Peter.

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thank you James and David.

    David @dirtylittlefokker, I checked that Tamiya case. Nice search from you. Much appreciated.

    Two days ago I spoke to local Perspex dealer about making a cover. He said the hard part is gluing the long narrow sides together without misalignment. Then sanding and polishing the edges. The Perspex sheet 3 x 1220 x 1220 = $106. The Acrifix glue = $20. The dealer will glue sides for $30. Total $156 with me still cutting the sheets.

    (I am sure I could align the top narrow cover onto the four sides in one go. I would first build two simple extended uprights for each side. Then place top within the aligners, and then lower it onto the glued edges.)

    Because I have empty pockets, I emailed Owen, the president-secretary of Casino Military Museum, about the cost and their need to have the model encased if they still want the model (next year). How they get it encased is up to them.

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Okay, I am back. Spending the weekend on this project. Here is an insight of what this scratch builder does for kicks. So far . . .

    Been trying to get a grasp of how the builders slapped together this movie bridge. Since it was a temporary build, the builders were not too overly concerned if things did not fit together. Here I am drawing some of the observed cantilever joints, and trying to find an ideal. It turns out too complex for a small scale model. So I worked out a simpler solution for my own construction.

    Below, my goal was to find out, with the available materials, how to include the main girder (spanning the whole bridge) without closing the gap between it and the top of the bridge towers. All the kit versions suffered from this problem. I do not wish to follow their example if I can help it.

    Before installing the piers, I needed to know exactly how high the main girder is above the waterline (or base plate). Once known, both end piers can be constructed to the correct height. Then a metal beam can lay across these two ends as a guide for all the other piers to meet the exact height and lean-in angle.

    Note, where the piers go into the base board, at an angle. The pier ends need to be trimmed and shaped to fit in the holes correctly.

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    Peter Hausamann said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Used a square for fitting in the centre piers at both ends. It was a bit iffy due to the taper.

    Then the out piers had to lean inwards as well as maintaining correct height. Solved the problem with a square block of dressed wood. Used it as a template for aligning the piers when gluing.


    Photo was taken at a higher level which, visually, almost eliminated actual degree of lean-in.