M4A3E8 Sherman ”Easy Eight”

  • 22 posts
  • Last reply 5 months, 3 weeks ago
  • Korean War, M4A3E8
Viewing 16 - 22 of 22 posts
  • Colin Gomez said 6 months ago:

    Thanks for the comments on the tracks and presentation techniques, Spiros. Tanks are easier than aircraft but some details are really time-consuming when maximizing realism.

    Thanks, Erik. Tracks on tanks on one example of how a model helps you to figure out how the real thing works. It’s really interesting how model designs solve problems in representing the engineering.

    Here is my latest update on the Sherman. I finally added ALL of the plastic and photo-etch bits necessary before painting (nothing left in the instructions – phew). I am leaving off the pioneer tools until the hull and turret are painted and weathered. There were quite a few tiny details to add for periscopes and guards, antennas, latches and clamps. Many of these were so tiny they could hardly be removed from the sprues. I broke several pieces smaller than a pinhead and repaired them with liquid glue as I went. There were two main challenges: the transparent cupola and the photo-etch periscope guards. I decided to simulate the look of the thick armored vision blocks on the cupola by painting them clear green (at Louis’s suggestion).

    Also for maximum accuracy, I painted the ring underneath the windows flat black.

    The black ring simulated the thickness of the vision block at the base of each window (see labelled photos of real cupolas and model).

    Masking each window was laborious because the masks are so small but I worked out a method of making three masks at once.

    I will mask off the ring when painting the turret and airbrush the cupola separately in several layers (white for the interior, then OD).

    It’s pretty much like doing a canopy on a plane. Sigh – I usually do tanks to AVOID clear parts. Anyway, with that done I decided to do the delicate photo-etch. Only three “cages” were required for three periscopes but these end up very visible at various viewing angles, so I positioned them carefully to look symmetrical and identical.

    I took one last photo to see how everything looked from the hero-shot 3/4 low angle view and was satisfied with my work.

    I hope this small update is useful for others to check out. Next up will be painting a flat black pre-shade on the upper hull and turret followed by the first coat of Tamiya OD. I will get all of my remaining tank tracks painted in the same session (might as well form a production line).

  • Erik Gjørup said 5 months, 4 weeks ago:

    Small update? – well a lot of interesting stuff crammed into it – very informative! And primer next, I suppose – great update Colin (@coling)

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 5 months, 4 weeks ago:

    Hi Colin @coling!
    Wow, what a meticulous work, specially at those tiny transparencies.
    Looking really great
    I also loved all those other PE details you added: might have consumed a bit of your efforts, but the result is stunning!

  • Louis Gardner said 5 months, 4 weeks ago:

    Hello Colin, @coling
    This is a magnificent update !!! I’m very happy to hear the clear green worked for you on the vision blocks for the Commander’s cupola. On our old M-60’s and even on the new M-1A1’s, these vision blocks all had a greenish tint to them. The picture you posted showing the “full sized” Sherman cupola demonstrates this effect well.

    I like how you made your window masks by cutting three of them at once. I just did a similar thing with my Hudner and Brown dual Corsair builds. I made a set of spray masks for the letter “K” in a similar fashion, and cut all 3 of them at once.

    By the looks of things, you might just be ready to start spraying some paint on your Sherman soon. It looks very nice. That aluminum main gun barrel is the hot ticket…………….. It always seems that I end up with a glue seam that’s visible when a kit has a two piece barrel. For years I have wondered why they do this, and now some manufacturers have started molding these parts in one piece, effectively eliminating these nasty seams that are so hard to hide.

    All of your PE work is showing up nicely as well. This is already looking fantastic !!!!!!

    Thanks for the updates.

  • Colin Gomez said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Thanks, Erik. I felt I had put in some time but only inched forward in progress with my relatively small update. I am happy the details were worthwhile to follow, anyway.

    Thanks, Spiros. The fiddly bits are done and the next update below allows me to finally surge forward on the build. Glad you like it so far.

    Thanks, Louis and thanks again for the insight on the cupola. I am lucky with this model to be using an RB productions metal barrel so I have no seam to worry about. You will see in the next photo set that I just have to mask the natural metal to have it come out accurately. I used to think that metal barrels were a waste of money but now I use them whenever I can on all my tank models.

    Here is the latest on the Easy Eight. I started by masking off the bogies with tin foil and covering the ring for the cupola with masking tape.

    I then painted the canvas mantlet cover with Gunze OD #1 for aircraft (tinted with a bit of Gunze Dark Earth).

    Gunze OD #1 is authentically brown in tone, which distinguishes it from the green Tamiya OD for the turret and hull. After it cured, I proceeded to mask the mantlet cover.

    Next was a pre-shade of flat black for the turret and hull.

    As with my T-72, this will deepen shadows, bring out details and add some authentic color tone variation and interest (hopefully) Please note that I can only show you the first pre-shade flat black coat with flaws and blank spots in airbrushing. I filled in the shadowed areas with a second coat of black followed by the first Tamiya OD coat in the next complete painting session.

    The unmasked mantlet looks pretty good in the all flat paint stage. I next sprayed some Tamiya OD touch ups and a layer of Tamiya clear prior to decaling oil washing and mud-effects.

    The weathering stage with oils and pigments will take me 3-4 days to experiment with now. I need to see it cure and dry in stages to get it to look right. This is the stage that is the most trying for me in that the weathering effects won’t be clear until the final flat coat. I am happy with the painting so far, anyway. I have been looking at period color pics as well as video from the Tank Museum at Bovingtonand I like the darkness of the OD. Here is a sample of a Korean War tank which is one of my marking options with Bison decals.

    I think it is a pretty good guide to weathering as well. Comments welcome, as always.

  • Erik Gjørup said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Coiln (@coling), it do look a bit (lot) dark at the moment. Looking forward to be seeing the weathering process in order to copy it one day 🙂

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    That’s some very nice progress, Colin @coling!
    I think weathering will add the final balancing touch, in order for your Sherman to look perfect.
    Loved your aluminum foil “masking”. Might use it too!

Viewing 16 - 22 of 22 posts