USMC M8 Greyhound 1/35th Tamiya

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  • Last reply 1 week, 2 days ago
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  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 2 months, 3 weeks ago:

    With Tolga working on a B-26 and several Corsairs also being assembled, lets do something a bit different to get started, and roll with the ground pounders of the USMC. So I will start with Tamiya’s M8 Greyhound in 35th scale.

    So let see what is in the box after popping the lid. Molded in OD styrene in bags that are easy to open. This is not the original Greyhound from the 70’s, which if I remember as i did build one could be motorized. Like the Jeep I built last year, this is a newer mold with much better details throughout the kit.

    Typical Tamiya foldout instruction sheet. In Japanese and English. Using Tamiya paints for their color callouts.

    The decals are for WWII US Army M8’s. May have to cobble some to create a Korean war era M8 when we get to that point of the build.

    The first sprue contains the turret, mantlet, breech and other turret components.

    The top deck in which the turret will be placed on is very well detailed and asking for more when time to enhance it.

    The turret ring is where the commander can actually control the turret with his feet. Interesting feature.

    Nice 37mm cannon breech .

    The .30 cal maching gun and components.

    The parts for the 37mm cannon look well done.

    The gun mantlet has fine cast in the plastic. Again a nice feature.

    The interior compartment floor bare for now, let see how we can make it look busy once we get into this part of the build.

    Gun cradle, elevator wheel and other bits which adds to the cannon.

    The next sprue contains the upper and lower hull, fenders, front and rear panels.

    The lower and upper hull are the largest components of the kit. Great start to really add some details.

    The rear panel has the engine cooling louvers molded into the panel. The rear side fenders also complete with the side ribbing molded in.

    The side waist panels that were located between the front and rear wheel openings. The top engine deck cover that allow cooling into the engine compartment.

    13 additional images. Click to enlarge.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Nice choice, Chuck.
    Looks great in the box!

  • Louis Gardner said 2 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Great choice Chuck…………. @uscusn
    Looks like we are in for another epic Villanueva build here !!!! Fasten your seat belts ladies and gentlemen, here we go. I have always wanted to see one of these M-8’s get built from the very beginning. Years ago we had one of the Greyhounds sitting in front of our Regimental HQ.

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 2 months ago:

    Thanks guys, this is definitely not the kit from the 70’s. Like the Jeep all new tooling and lots of detail.
    Will also enhance it with a detail set from Eduards.

    Now step1.

    Working on the main lower hull, I start with the floor.

    Next the spring perches are placed on each side of the lower hull.

    Both rear leaf springs are placed on each perch and set in place.

    Finally the final piece is the drive shaft and transfer case.

    Next is to work on the drivelines and suspension.
    More to follow.

  • Louis Gardner said 2 months ago:

    Wow !!! There’s a lot of detail in this kit……… It has to be a new tool just like you said. I’m really liking what I see here…………. and you have already made a lot of progress.

    What is the kit number for this one if you don’t mind ???

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months ago:

    That’s a great progress, Chuck @uscusn! Looks a great kit and you put it together in a really great manner.
    As usual, your step by step pic coverage is exceptional, a joy to follow along.

  • Erik Gjørup said 2 months ago:

    As usual Tamiya delivers relatively easy detail, and with your added Eduard PE its bound to be a treat! Trying to stay in 1/48, I might even be tempted into building their 1/48 version of the same. It looks like a down-scaled version and there are some nice AM resin and PE from Black Dog, Gaso.line and Hauler. Thank you for sharing this, even though you might lure me into armour. . .

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 1 month ago:

    Yes Louis this kit has a lot going for such a small vehicle. Well not that small, but still not a tank. The kit #35228. It is an update with modern tooling for the time in the mid 90’s. So far the fit is excellent.
    Spiros thanks, it is a neat kit so far, but I am going to do an easy mod to add a bit more character to the armored car.
    Eric, 48th scale has come along ways, for a long time there was very little as this scale was quite neglected in armor. Int he 60’s and 70’s up to the turn of the century, the only game in town was Bandai, and they were hard to find. Seems like I wanted at least a Jeep to park next to some of the WWII aircraft just as a comparison and a bit of vignette. Now there is a nice selection, some are just as pricey as the 35th scale stuff. Like the Tamiya airfield fuel truck I have my eye on.
    Now on to step 2. Spiros, this is the mod I am going to do on the M8,

    A drop in fit front differential which allows you to pose the wheels in a turning postion. In resin.

    The directions pretty much follows the Tam kits just substitute the resin front diff in place of the kits.

    1st the kits differential and driveshaft assy is all one piece with all 3 diffs connected to the driveshafts.

    The resin diff and kits are exact except for the separate knuckles on the resin part.

    The resin differential is a drop fit replacement part, no modification required.

    Cut off the kits differential from the drivetrain assy.

    Before moving on, E-brake drum is attached to the transfer case.

    Next the top cover of the transfer case is then installed.

    Next is to install rear pumpkin covers over the differential gear sets. Pumpkin is slang used for the 3rd member or center portion of a differential, as they do look like a pumpkin in shape on some vehicles, so the term is used in the automotive industry for all makes and models, when mechanics talk to each other. Where as a customer may not know what they are talking about.

    Now next is to install the assembled drivetrain.

    1st the drive train is installed to the lower hull.

    The rear torsion rods are next attached on each side of the rear differentials.

    ]

    Next the resin differential is installed using Super Glue and placed in round pin holes in the hull, excellent strong contact point. The only issue is the driveshaft sits a bit low where it should be centered. Didn’t catch that before the cyano had set. Being fragile I am going to leave it.

    The front shocks are next up. These will also help support the front differential. Contact points are very strong.

    The radius arm is then temporarily placed in front of the differential. Extremely fragile, I really don’t know how it survived removing it from the casting block without breaking it.

    Finally in this step the underside is painted Mission Models Olive Drab Acrylic. Love this stuff.

    Next is to complete the undercarriage.

    More to follow.

    2 additional images. Click to enlarge.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 month ago:

    Wow! Such splendid work, Chuck!
    I love all these small bits coming along together, resin conversion parts included.
    And what an inspiration for me!
    One of my near future projects will be an armor vehicle, possibly for the Gulf War GB.

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 month ago:

    Chuck (@uscusn), to comment on 1/48 first, I have bought a lot of what I could find, and Italeri just re-issued their German fueltruck. The Jeep is hard to find, and I will be looking for a few of those too.
    Regarding your resin additions I remember back in Greenland when I took apart a Land Rover steering for the first time – those big chromed knuckles were really impressive. Your build looks great with the paint on!

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 1 month ago:

    Thanks Spiros, armor is a change of pace, but I tend to take my time on them as I usually go straight to assembling before any painting like I do on aircraft models. Makes more sense on armor to get as much assemble then paint it the overall basic scheme and then add the details like the pioneer tools after they are detailed out.
    Eric, there are a few vehicles I have had my eye on as support or utility vehicles that you may see at an airfield. Tanks and armor in 35th scale. But in 48th a Jeep, ambulance or service trucks is what I try too look for.

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 month ago:

    Chuck (@uscusn), I have bought a handful resin-conversion kits to make Tamiya 1/48 into workshop cars and ambulances. One day. . . Oh, and I just found two Tamiya sets containing the Jeep (online, in Italy!) so I expect them soon. That also means that I will have a lot of US soldiers I can spare – let me know in a PM if anyone have some use for those. – sorry to intrude in your build this way – keep it comin’

  • Louis Gardner said 3 weeks ago:

    Typically I build armor in the larger 1/35 scale. My up close vision is what keeps me from building the smaller scales. It sure looks like Tamiya has packed a lot of detail into this one. The new resin front axle is a nice touch. It will allow you to position the front wheels in a position different that just straight ahead. Sometimes this different dynamic pose is just what you need to set your build apart from the rest.

    Looks good Chuck !!! Keep it coming …………… 🙂

  • Chuck A. Villanueva said 2 weeks, 5 days ago:

    Thanks Erik, that is a pretty good plan for the 48th scale light service trucks and jeeps that around the airfield. Need to look into that for myself, just to have a vehicle parked next to a plane for affect.
    Louis, it was a last minute decision to do the modification, simple but to add a little character to the M8 with the wheels turned.
    Now to get the work in on the front suspension.

    First to remove each steering knuckle carefully from the resin block.

    Before attaching the knuckles I paint the steering pivot point chrome silver.

    While the paint is drying, I go ahead and install the transfer case cover plate and front glacis plate to M8.

    Next the kit backing plates are attached to each steering knuckle. Using CA glue.

    The resin tie rod and radius rod is loosely placed on the front diff.

    Now each knuckle is placed on each end of the front differential in the right turn position. A dab of CA glue on the steering arms, the radius rod in the proper position. Now to make sure the spindles are level. Let the CA set for an hour.

    In the meantime now the front leaf springs are placed over the front diff.

    Finally the front tow/lift eye mounts are attached to the front glacis panel.

    Next up the final lower suspension bits.
    more to follow.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 2 weeks, 5 days ago:

    The front axle dynamic posing looks really great, Chuck!
    It adds A LOT to the model posture!

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