Need some airbrushing / gloss-coating help…

Started by Greg Kittinger · 5 · 4 years ago · gloss, Gunze, Tamiya
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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    Ok - as I'm getting acclimated to airbrushing, I've begun to experience a peculiar problem with Tamiya
    and Gunze paints. So far I've finished 2 aircraft in Tamiya paint, one with Gunze, and two with two other types of paint (Akan and LifeColor). Here's my issue: the Tamiya and Gunze paints seems to dry to a more grainy and rough surface, and I'm having trouble with decal silvering as a result. I'm using Testors Gloss Coat from a rattle can (have been for decades, without problems). On my last project, I sprayed 3 coats of gloss coat - let it sit for 3 days to cure - but then was suspicious that it wasn't really smooth. So I decaled the drop tanks to see how it would go - and silvering ensued! I sprayed an additional 2 coats of gloss coat on the airframe itself, yet I still don't see the really glossy sheen I'm used to seeing prior to decaling.

    Am I applying the Tamiya/Gunze paints incorrectly or something to get such a rough surface that the gloss coat doesn't smooth it out? I hate to spray so much gloss that I then can't get a good panel line wash (remember, I'm at 72 scale!). I'm using retarder with the Tamiya paint, and Mr. Color Leveling Thinner with the Gunze.

    I didn't have this problem with the Akan and Life Color paints, and I've never had it in most of my years of brush painting either enamel flats (Model Master) or Vallejo Model Color paints.

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    Scott Snow said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    Greg,

    There a whole bunch of reasons you are getting a grainy result, but I suspect the problem might be the distance between the airbrush and the model. When I use Tamiya acrylics, which are my go to paints by the way, I make sure to keep the airbrush pressure lower than 15 psi and I keep the airbrush nozzle within 2 inches of the model surface. This ensures the paint doesn't dry between the airbrush nozzle and the model surface. Spraying under higher pressures and/or spraying from too great a distance will often cause the paint to dry to such a degree that when it hits the surface it doesn't level out properly, resulting in a pebbly finish.
    Hope this helps.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    May I also add the dilution ratio of thinner in the paint? I use Isopropyl alcohol for Tamiya acrylics ( I find this better than their own thinner label) and plain rubbing alcohol for Gunze acrylic. The ratio is always a 50-50 mix and usually the paint finish is gloss or semi gloss. Still I use a “Future-like” floor acrylic (also diluted in Isopropyl) airbrushed 8-10 hours before applying the decals

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    Hmm - perhaps the distance from brush to model is the culprit. I've been concentrating so much on my control of the brush trigger (building up muscle memory) that I probably haven't been conscious enough of the distance-to-model issue, even though I understand the concept.

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    I do use a nicely thinned paint - more like 40% paint so as not to cover the black-basing too quickly (per a friend's recommendation).