HMCS Huron - Trumpeter 1/350

Started by Colin Gomez · 16 · 1 year ago
  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    This is my first ship. I decided to start fairly small with a destroyer. The Trumpeter kit has a few accuracy issues but is quite fixable. I first fixed the the lack of upward curvature in the forecastle with some styrene surgery. Then I set about filling in the excess portholes, which are the right number for an early Royal Navy Tribal, like HMS Eskimo but not for Canadian versions. I consulted the HMCS Haida and Huron in photos and the former as preserved in Hamilton. ON and counted portholes. That makes me a porthole counter rather than a rivet counter. I shortened the aft funnel (another Canadian Mod to allow a better arc of fire for the AA defences). The kit turrets were replaced with 3D printed versions (only two shown installed) and I also replaced the 3D print barrels with brass (very delicate surgery!). I have 3D printed boats (Trumpeter's versions in the box are not even British style but apparently vaguely German looking) These are not mounted yet.

    At this stage, I am preparing to add PE railings, ladders and other bits from White Ensign. Major painting is done but mistakes need fixing. You may see for the photos that I have some touch-ups to do to eliminate some porthole afterimage with imperfect filling/sanding and clean up the turrets slightly. Frankly, 1/350 is very intimidating and I am progressing slowly and carefully. Everything is so tiny! All the etch add on bits are very delicate and expensive and have to be handled carefully.

    BTW, I used Life Color's set for the Royal Navy "Western Approaches" to do the camouflage. I was not happy with their green/blue so I mixed them slightly. I may yet replace the green with a duller shade like JN Grey-Green but could dull down what I have already in the weathering stage. Any RN enthusiasts out there who could suggest the best course or assess the current shades?

    Thanks, Hope you like things so far. Comments welcome.

    10 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    BTW, can anyone help with advice on etch railings? I understand that most builders cut the railings into short lengths (no more than four sections long?) and then glue them to each other. This sounds reasonable to keep everything under control and aligned. Nonetheless, I am nervous about cutting delicate longer lengths of railing into pieces. Also I am uncertain how well short lengths would align and glue together. How do you guys do it?

  • Profile Photo
    Andrew H said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Colin, I typically work with 1/700 scale, but I feel there is relevance with my PE railing experiences. Assuming you are using full bottom railings (single stanchions are a whole different animal) it's usually enough to just glue the railings to deck edge, keeping sections limited to what makes the most sense. If these are many angles and bends, certainly make smaller sections. For long straight stretches, dry-fit to ensure that the edge fits flush with the mating deck. If so, you should be good, just be weary that fitting a longer piece can be unruly (think of trying to extend and lay a tape measure out over an 8' board from one end). In this case (with long stringers) it's ok to CA glue (or tack) one end down, let it cure, and then "fill the seam" progressively as the CA dries... This actually works for any length or shape, just make sure your forms match up geometrically with the deck before committing the whole section... you may end up with a bow or "slack in the middle otherwise.

    As far as connecting sections, sometimes getting close can be well enough, and spanning glue between them can help to reinforce the "joint".

    I hope this helps.. Experiment and practice if possible! especially since you are doing it post-paint. Touch-ups may be necessary, so don't get too worked up if that's the case. Build's looking good so far!

    Check out ship model forums too, a lot of good reference data there:
    http://www.shipmodels.info/

    This may be of particular interest:
    http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=35073&start=240

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thank you for the suggestions, Andrew. That gives me a lot more general confidence. I will also check out the links you gave. BTW, I did the painting of hull and superstructure following the practice and video build of a ship modeler named Guido Hopp on Youtube, who did a nice1/350 Graf Spee. I liked his approach and concurred that it was better to touch up previously painted decks and fittings after applying etch than to paint around the etch. It certainly fit this build, since the decks are blue/grey and the rails are white. I airbrushed the etch fret as well so everything will be pre-painted. I plan to do some practice work on scrap than do the simpler structures first, working from inner detail to outer. The main rails will be last. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

  • Profile Photo
    Robert McDowell said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Correct. I do some six- or eight when they run easily. Annealing helps, but be gentle! I buy twice what I think I need and am not shy about tossing a flawed piece aside. Railings [like rigging] completes the model, but damaged rails stand out!

  • Profile Photo
    Robert McDowell said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    It's not often a Canadian ship appears in the modelling world. At the end of WW2 the Canadian navy was the third largest in the world. These Tribal Class ships played a big role in the war. The Haida had a most outstanding career. Thanks for the build. Nice job.

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Thanks for your reply, Robert @robertmcdowell. Very helpful to know that you follow the rule of shorter lengths of railing. I will be uploading more images of the Trumpeter Huron, which I may complete as Haida after all. I have some railing on now, as well as main mast, supports, radar and superstructure etch. Quite a learning experience but so far, so good. More to come this weekend. I like the work you did on your IJN fleet, I have the Chikuma, Myoko, Takao, Kaga, Zuikaku and several destroyers (Shimakaze, Yukikaze and Akizuki) in my stash with some work done in 1/350 and the i19 sub in 1/200 (close to adding etch).

    BTW, I am really happy to build a Canadian ship for my first 1/350 project. The Tribals were indeed formidable and beautiful ships in my opinion. Canadian specifications made them slightly wider and more stable, with better AA layout than their RN sister ships. It's great to have Haida nearby in Hamilton to look at. There are some very useful drone videos of her on You Tube as well which really helped with figuring out some elements on the model. One day I would also like to do the Revell 1/144 HMCS Snowberry Corvette. The bigger scale will ease the eyestrain in building and painting. I would also like to have it displayed alongside the Revell 1/144 Fletcher. So many kits, so little time.

  • Profile Photo
    Robert McDowell said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    When I was young my parents had a rug from the wardroom of HMCS Sackville. I wish I knew the story about how it came to be in our home.

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    That would be interesting to know for sure. I saw HMCS Sackville moored in Halifax when visiting the city for a reunion of my uncle's WW 2 army unit a few years back. I never had a chance to go onboard but got a good look from the outside. Like Haida, she had quite a heroic career as an escort. As you said, the RCN was definitely a force to be reckoned with during the Battle of the Atlantic.

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Just a brief update on the RCN Tribal Class destroyer I am working on these days. I have been attaching photo-etch, trying to work from the center out, at least for major components.

    The main mast is mostly done, with the yard arms - or yard - reinforced with a pin glued on the back - I don't see how else it would support the rigging later. I did some etch for some small ladders, supports for the bridge structure and railings for the forward front B gun deck, and, finally with great trepidation, began work on the the railing of the forecastle, which has a curved uplift. Since I did the surgery myself on the foc'sle, I was afraid the curved etch rail from the White Ensign set would not match the curve perfectly. In fact the fit was very good. I took hours to get the most curved section, which was about 8 spans when the piece was cut in half, to fit perfectly using tiny amounts of superglue and Gator Glue thin. I couldn't cut it any shorter because the curve of the deck needed a longish piece to sit well. Here it is from various angles. This is my second attempt at railing after spending an equally long time on the B deck rail around the deck gun. The most aggravating thing is accidentally crushing or twisting other railing on another part of the ship while fitting the outer railing. It is all in how you hold the model, which I am gradually getting better at. I snapped the mast off twice by accident while doing other etch, so I am acquiring new patience as a modeler making constant repairs, re-gluing as I go. Demanding almost as much attention as the railing are super-tiny and fragile mast details , like the Yagi antenna array. I lost this a couple of times by accidentally launching it into the space of my office but recovered and repaired it each time. Anyway, the pics speak for themselves, I guess. It may be of interest to some that I have left the bridge,B deck and X deck platform pieces as friction fits without glue so I can pop them out and work on etch detail for AA guns and supports to one side, all before I finally glue them to the main deck. It is nice to be able to do this when the etch and resin detail that gets built up in tight spaces is so is so fragile. The 3-D printed gun turrets for 5 in and 4 in guns have also been fragile and I had to do major repairs with superglue on the rear most turret - luckily it is good as new under a fresh coat of paint now. I don't think I mentioned how much work I did to create post mounts for each turret and drill our mounting holes in each deck so the turrets can be lifted out when needed and also so they rotate smoothly. All that early work has really paid off as I still remove some of them from time to time for painting and detailing tasks. The 3D printed boats look very nice and are just test fitted for now. I will paint some wooden details on them before gluing them in. That's it for now. Lots of work to do yet on the resin and etch pom pom guns, Oerlikon AA, boats and davits, 3D printed anchor chain, depth charge racks and etch details. Just wanted to share the good results with the railing so far. Fingers crossed I don't mess anything up as I continue.

  • Profile Photo
    Tom Cleaver said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Beautiful work here @coling - your first boat is a success.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Looks wonderful so far, my friend @coling!

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Good save on the turret, Colin @coling
    The railing, and the other parts as well, does look superb.

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Thank you, Tom. This model has been a real learning experience. I learned some crucial new techniques for applying photo-etch but also discovered new reserves of patience I didn't know I had when things went wrong. Micro applications of debonder have saved me from abandoning etch and not having replacement bits for 3D printed parts have forced me to do emergency repairs I would have thought impossible on printed resin. In other words, its confidence building and quite meditative compared to building a plane or tank.

  • Profile Photo
    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 5 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros. Glad you like it.