Tugboat, Revell, 1:108. FINISHED

  • 32 posts
  • Last reply 3 weeks, 6 days ago
  • Revell, tugboat
Viewing 1 - 15 of 32 posts
  • Csaba said 2 months ago:

    Here is a short WIP update on my Revell tugboat build. I bought this kit ten years ago, because I loved the picture on the box. After opening the box, I quickly realized that this is a very old kit. However, I started building it, but quickly abandoned the project. Fast-forward to 2018, when I started cleaning up my stash. I gave away many half-ready and unopened kits to friends and their kids, while keeping only a handful kits for myself.
    One of them was this tugboat. It is indeed a very old kit, but it is a great practice project. (according to Scalemate´s database, it was released first in 1955!) It is not mentioned anywhere, but after a quick online search I figured out that the ship is a model of the 86-foot army tugboats built around 1944. It is not the most accurate model and many of the details are simplified. The deckhouse is quite long, I think on most of the tugs it was shorter, but I have seen photos of similar tugs with this longer type as well.
    I decided to sand down the details molded on the main parts (such as axe, lifebouys, rails etc) and rebuild most of them from scratch. The hawser rack was made from Eduard´s photoetched metal net.
    There are two main challenges in the build. The first is the very low quality molded rope parts, for example rope coils on the deck or the bumpers. I decided to make these parts on my own. Luckily, my wife loves knitting and crocheting, so I had the basic tools needed for this kind of job. I made my own, miniature “Strickliesel”, which a tool used to teach kids the basic crochet techniques. It can be used for one basic thing – making long coils. Just as the side bumpers of a tugboat! For the front bumpers I used her small weaving frame and the same model boat rope as for the side bumpers.
    The second challenging part is the handrails. These are almost 1 mm thick injection molded parts, with a lot of flash. Basically unusable if you want to build a proper model. I replaced them with Albion Alloy microtubes. It is a very fiddly job and requires proper planning, patience and good templates to prefabricate the parts.
    The modular buildup helped a lot, I am able to work on the main parts simultaneously. I decided not to go for the usual red/black paintjob. Some of these boats ended up in Europe after the war, so there are other options than that very common red paint job. I decided to build it based on an existing ship (Cornhill, ex-army ST-767, Newcastle), but in imaginary German colors. So, in my what-if world the tugboat got the name Anna and she was used in Hamburg.
    I am almost finished with the projects, and most probably in a few weeks I will be able to share the result with you here.

    12 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Craig Abrahamson said 2 months ago:

    Fiddly indeed…but looking outstanding – nice work!

  • Chaz Sutherland said 2 months ago:

    Wow! Gorgeous work. If it wasn’t for the desk being in the background of that fourth image, it could pass as a full scale hull being worked on.

  • David Mills said 2 months ago:

    I remember this kit!
    What about that red plastic!
    Great work – love the fenders and the hull work!

  • Gary Wiley said 2 months ago:

    Excellent job Csaba! Nice scratch work. That’s going to be a beauty when finished.

  • Csaba said 2 months ago:

    Yes, that red plastic… Awesome! 🙂 I don’t get why manufacturers still produce kits with colored plastics. Almost all modelers will use a primer coat anyway.

  • Csaba said 2 months ago:

    Thank you guys for the positive feedback, I really hope that the end result will look good enough for an article here on iModeler. I enjoy the good old scratchbuilding, even if it sometimes frustrating.

  • Sebastijan Videc said 1 month, 3 weeks ago:

    Love what you’ve done so far! I am certain, the end result will be quite spectacular!

  • Csaba said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    I have just finished the handrails. As you can see, I reinforced the joints with soldering on the rear parts, but not in the front. The reason for that is simple, I was unable to hold the bended parts. Hopefully they will still look great after getting the final color.
    The handrails are not glued, I did a simple final dry fit before spraying them with Tamiya’s primer.

    Hopefully I will finish the model in the coming weeks, because there will be a competition on the last weekend of October in Malmö, Sweden, just the other side of the border from here.

    Fun fact: I have counted 194 individual parts built into the handrails. (Not included the messed up parts…) 🙂

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Gary Wiley said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    Beautiful work. I really like the railing being done out of micro-tubing. At this scale it makes a really noticeable difference. Flat PE just doesn’t look realistic enough, but on something 1:350 or smaller it’s about the only option. Your work looks very good and realistic.

  • Csaba said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    Yes Gary, micro-tubing is really nice. This was my first time using it, so there was quite a learning curve…

  • Csaba said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    Thank you Sebastijan!

  • Sebastijan Videc said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    That hand rail is a huuuuge improvement over the kit supplied one, even if you didn’t manage to solder the front as well!

  • Csaba said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I glued the handrails onto the top deck. As you can see, I had to make a small adjustment. Unfortunately the quick connector on my compressor hose broke just before I started painting… I disassembled it and managed to fix it temporarily, but unfortunately I can’t paint until I get a new one. Bad luck…

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

  • Greg Kittinger said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I’m not a floaty thing guy, but LOVE all the work and details you’re putting into this. Looks fantastic so far…

Viewing 1 - 15 of 32 posts