Louis (@lgardner), the manufacture of corks for modeling was more complicated that just wine corks - they are whisky corks as those have a better footing. I am slowly working through more stock to free up more corks.

And thank you for the kind words. Having found out scratchbuilding like this is no sweat, I slowly tread deeper waters. I do remember "Tubaro" and will be looking forward to it progressing again.

Anyway, the green nanzan may be some time away, but I do think it is in the future stack. (actually I have been thinking about doing a limited conversionkit, but I have to find out a lot more about resin first - luckily I know someone here in Denmark that may be able to help out there)

Hi guys. Just for fun, I will add my two cents worth on acrylics. I definitely appreciate what you are saying about the clogging issue; it's taken me years (and a ruined Aztec Airbrush) to work out how to handle them. Now acrylics are the only thing I would consider using in my airbrushes or even in brush painting. I maybe go a bit overboard with safety but first and foremost I like the reduced toxicity of acrylics. I also use a Testors spray booth vented outside and spray only filtered water to clean the brush between colors (or sometimes a bit of Windex). I thin about 50-50 or 60-40 thinner to paint with Tamiya plus about five drops of Retarder in an average paint load, which prevents both pebbling and clogging. The thing I like about Tamiya, Lifecolor or MM Acryl acrylics is how thin and smooth they will go on. I don't think I would have attempted my Shiden Kai with all the primer, metal coat, preshading, gloss coat and flat coat layers if they weren't acrylic and therefore thin enough to preserve detail. At worst, I have the occasional blockage issue but I can handle stubborn clogs by quickly knocking down the airbrush, wiping down the needle and dipping the nozzle in Windex. I always keep a little jar of Windex and some tweezers handy for this. I also use a paint brush dipped in Windex to wipe bits down or get inside the nozzle rather than using a cloth, which might leave lint. As I mentioned before, I also like the way you can strip easily Tamiya acrylics off a model with Windex in case of a bad finish issue (MM Acryl or Lifecolor comes off with soap and water). Anyway just my contribution to defend the often maligned acrylic option IMHO :).

Colin the acrylic guy.

I am afraid so, my friend @airbum... Either gripping in the modern world, or extinction!
Happened with dinos, though at a much cruder way...

Thank goodness they have left a permanent "effect" on me... 🙂

Thank you Colin (@coling) - great turorial stuff. I do not clean a lot, but we do have the same stuff here in Denmark by another name of course. I shall give it a try when I brave some acrylics. I think I will have to get my old Badger 150 up and running and use that one for acrylics in order to keep down the use of thinners. Thank you again George, I am certain it helped.

Taking shape gradually, my friend @airbum! And makes me eager to see its progress!
Not to worry about the top gap: if it remains stubbornly, our LqS mate will save the day!

Spiros my friend. The wait is over in a few minutes - another small update enroute @fiveten!

WOW - and after posting, an update with two repetitions of the message I tried to send - and it seems like I indeed did send - twice, even though only pressing send once followed by F5 with no result, going bach helped me back on site though. @techsupport - one for the future list?