J7w1 1/48. Zoukei Mura

  • 69 posts
  • Last reply 1 week, 5 days ago
Viewing 1 - 15 of 69 posts
  • Paul Barber said 2 months ago:

    This kit has been sitting in wait for a while!

    Loads of Japanese WW 2 builds ongoing – will overlap them here a little.

    But this kit will be my main focus for the group.

  • Louis Gardner said 2 months ago:

    Hello Paul !!! @yellow10
    Your builds are always impressive. Please feel free to add as many as you like.

    I can’t wait to see this one come to life in front of us. From what I have seen online, this is a very nice model. I think you will enjoy it. Thanks for joining in on the madness. Stay safe my friend.

  • Paul Barber said 2 months ago:

    Thanks for the welcome, Louis. I am certainly hoping to add One or two more. I am looking for a particular kit – more of which later. Although I have to say it’s very easy in these conditions to get on the web and buy like an i***t! I have a Kinetic Sea Harrier to do as a Plane that flew in the Falklands conflict. So yesterday I bought a Mirage III to pay respect to the Argentinian pilots who flew so bravely at that time. And etch. And decals. And resin. And then I sat wondering what else to buy!!

    I will almost certainly put the Ki-43 reboot here as a build but also post It to my (way overdue) Hollywood thread.

    A year seems a long time, but it will fly!

    I hope you and Sandy are well – and enduring the shut down. Talk later.

  • Paul Barber said 2 months ago:

    Here are all the goodies I got when I bought this a year or two back – being in Australia I got ZM to send this from Japan and obviously pushed the boat out on metal guns, tubes and undercarriage parts, and a pilot. I have recently been trying to learn to improve figure painting so it came as a nice ‘surprise’ to see the pilot with his Samurai sword.

    Aftermarket goodies – but no canopy masks. I’ll need to fix that!

    Looking forward to having a go at this figure!

    I also have a base in mind…

    My new work flow masks canopies first – it always stalls me – from now on I am going to start all builds that way so as not to hit the wall! I’ll start reading the very complex instructions in the mean time!

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    WOW – great choice sir! That is one sharp looking pilot.

  • Louis Gardner said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    You certainly have all of the essentials to make this one an award winning build………… I like the idea about masking the canopies first. For me, that’s not my favorite part of the build either…… It would be fantastic if you could add a few more builds (in due time) for the group. Your work is always astonishing and perfect.

    I like what I’m seeing here, and I’m sure that you will knock this one out of the park. Sandy and I are both doing well. I’ll let her know that you have asked about her. Thanks for asking.

    Take care and stay safe my friend.

  • Paul Barber said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    Sharp. Very good, Erik! I have been playing with 1/35 figures for a future armour project – he’s looking a bit small!

  • Paul Barber said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    Hey Louis, that’s great to hear.

    There don’t seen to be pre cut masks for many ZM kits. I’ll have another look but it may be just me a knife and the tape. That said the canopy looks well engineered and the lines well delineated – so less of a stress.

    Louis, a question! I have always been very impressed with your gloss coats. I’m trying to up my game on that front. What do you use?

  • Louis Gardner said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    Hello Paul, @yellow10
    Occasionally I will use Model Master Gloss Coat. They offer several different versions of this, and it came in a spray can as well as the bottle. Besides the Gloss Coat, you could also get Semi Gloss or Flat Coat, providing that Rustoleum hasn’t stopped selling this product line since they purchased the Model Master line of paint a year or so ago.

    Most of the time, now I use clear “Future” acrylic. It’s sold as “Pledge” and a few other brand names around the world. It’s a clear acrylic that is normally used for floors. I thin it down to about a 50/50 ratio between the acrylic and plain old rubbing alcohol. Spray it on and let it set for several days before you attempt to apply the decals. If you rush things, it will turn a milky white color when the water from the decals touches it. However, I have found that most often it will turn back to it’s normal state when dry.

    The biggest thing that I have found when trying to get a nice looking finish is the type of air brush you use to spray your final top coat. If you can afford it, getting a better unit like one from Harder and Steenbeck or Iwata is the way to go. Each person will have their own preferences when it comes to air brushes though.

    You can also wet sand your paint using very fine wet and dry sand paper. I typically will use a 2000 grit and go progressively finer from there when I do wet sand a model. Most of the time however, a nice even coat of 50/50 Future works for me.

    Thanks for the compliments on my paint finishes.

    I have always been very impressed with your attention to detail on ever one of your builds. They always look so lifelike and are top notch. Thanks for joining our Empire of Japan group !!!

    Take care, stay safe, and please tell Katie and the boys that Sandy and I said hello…………..

  • Paul Barber said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    Here are a couple of videos regarding this plane.

    The version I will put together will be the J7W1 – the first prototype. There were very limited test flights and the plane never made it into a fight. Originally planned as a high speed interceptor of B-29s there were many issues with the design, although many later aircraft took on the ‘canard’ shape.

  • Paul Barber said 1 month, 4 weeks ago:

    Louis, thank you for the advice – I have some pledge – sadly under current restrictions IPA is in short supply – people are making their own hand-sanitiser. I will source some and have a go! The kids are building some poor quality 747s. The basic plastic is the colour they need to be – so to get a quick build done as a refresher course for the boys – before going onto better kits – I will give them a very much ‘gloss’ coating.

    Anyway I told them that you had given us some advice and showed them your post – they say hello and thank you!

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 month, 3 weeks ago:

    This is a fantastic choice, Paul! And all these extra goodies, how better can it get?
    This group build turns my appetite on more and more!

  • Paul Barber said 1 month, 3 weeks ago:

    I can’t wait to see your builds develop, Spiros!

  • Louis Gardner said 1 month, 3 weeks ago:

    Paul, @yellow10
    You can spray the Pledge without using rubbing alcohol. Just be careful to not spray on too much or too thick, as it will run or sag on you. Plus it takes a bit longer to dry before you can handle the model. I have a bad habit of leaving my finger prints in freshly sprayed clear……………

    I’ll bet your boys are having a blast !!! Building models with their Dad……….. It doesn’t get any better than that……… Thank you for showing them what I posted. It’s a great idea to get your little ones involved in the hobby. Planting the seed of model building. It can be a lifelong hobby that they will enjoy for many years to come. I think of my Dad often when I build something. He introduced me to the hobby.

  • Louis Gardner said 1 month, 3 weeks ago:

    Hello again Paul, @yellow10
    I just stumbled across this, and thought it might be of some use for you.

    http://www.aviationofjapan.com/2008/10/nasm-shinden-colours.html

    Hope it helps along the way……………

    The B&W video you posted showing the test flight was incredible. Did you happen to notice how badly bent the propeller blades were after the first test flight ??? Amazing……………..

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