Hello Paul, @yellow10
Occasionally I will use Model Master Gloss Coat. They offer several different versions of this, and it came in a spray can as well as the bottle. Besides the Gloss Coat, you could also get Semi Gloss or Flat Coat, providing that Rustoleum hasn’t stopped selling this product line since they purchased the Model Master line of paint a year or so ago.
Most of the time, now I use clear “Future” acrylic. It’s sold as “Pledge” and a few other brand names around the world. It’s a clear acrylic that is normally used for floors. I thin it down to about a 50/50 ratio between the acrylic and plain old rubbing alcohol. Spray it on and let it set for several days before you attempt to apply the decals. If you rush things, it will turn a milky white color when the water from the decals touches it. However, I have found that most often it will turn back to it’s normal state when dry.
The biggest thing that I have found when trying to get a nice looking finish is the type of air brush you use to spray your final top coat. If you can afford it, getting a better unit like one from Harder and Steenbeck or Iwata is the way to go. Each person will have their own preferences when it comes to air brushes though.
You can also wet sand your paint using very fine wet and dry sand paper. I typically will use a 2000 grit and go progressively finer from there when I do wet sand a model. Most of the time however, a nice even coat of 50/50 Future works for me.
Thanks for the compliments on my paint finishes.
I have always been very impressed with your attention to detail on ever one of your builds. They always look so lifelike and are top notch. Thanks for joining our Empire of Japan group !!!
Take care, stay safe, and please tell Katie and the boys that Sandy and I said hello…………..