This is a "Class A" finish, Eric (@eb801). I always have trouble controlling the chipping, but you have perfected the process. Back in the "old days" I used rubber cement in the same way you are using masking fluid, but could never get the chips to look right. Now I use chipping fluid, which helps make things random.

Thanks George and Greg for the comments. Rubber cement. Wow. I forgot all about that stuff. I didn't know there's a specific product called "chipping fluid". I will have to look into this. You guys have any brand recommendations?

Hi Eric @eb801. Like Erik @airbum, I have used only Maskol and just for masking those intricate spots, being happy with it (apart from that distinctive smell...). It sticks well and detaches equally well, without any issues whatsoever. I found out that I can dilute Maskol with water, which might be helpful for your implementation of the sponge technique.

One note, though: I have only used it with enamels, so I cannot comment for its behaviour with acrylics; normally, there shouldn't be any issue.

Hi Eric. Your chipping looks great. For something completely different, I have actually tried white glue directly over a Rub n Buff undercoat. It worked very well and didn't harm the "metal" underneath. The white glue was the very weak "Elmer's School Glue" we have in Canada (not sure where you are). It might work as well as masking fluid and I am pretty sure would be fine over Tamiya clear. Just a thought. I thing you have achieved great results already. I am still ambivalent about the salt chi pping method I am experimenting with for my Shiden Kai. It really fades the paint as well a peeling it and leaves a quite rough surface. Love the work you have done on your Hayate so far.

It's been a week since I made any progress now it's Wednesday and I finally have something to show.

After weathering the Hayate a bit more with powders and highlighting using Tamiya panel line color for the first time (I'm hooked now). I'm a bit concerned I may be overdoing it.

I recently read somewhere online that the real reason Japanese planes looked so worn and chipped is simple: often these aircraft lacked a primer coats between the bare metal and the final colors and not because of poor quality paint.

Back to the paint shop for a faint misting of thinned light white-grey followed by a couple of Dullcoate airbrush passes.

Now waiting for the stink to dissipate. Guess I'll go work on the already painted landing gear and wheel assemblies.

Hi Eric @eb801!
Your weathering looks really good.

Looking great on its feet, Eric! A very realistic posture!

Thanks guys. I hope I haven’t overdone the worn look but that is what I’m aiming at.