Shiden-Kai shelf of doom rescue 2

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  • Last reply 1 month ago
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  • Bill Koppos said 3 months, 1 week ago:

    The aforementioned Hasegawa 1/32 Shiden-Kai now, after sitting for years, has it’s wingtip lights fixed, checked over, cleaned up, ready for paint. We’re going full Scale-a-ton on this one. This refers to a fella on the Innertube who’s paint jobs I REALLY like. It involves a base coat, then small “squiggles” of a very light paint over the whole surface. Then a lightened base color is applied randomly, finally the overall color is applied lightly, leaving some of the “squiggles” to show thru. It’s kinda like a fancy pre-shading, and results in great tonal variation I usually tried to achieve by lightening and darkening the base color. It has lately been referred to as “blackbasing”, The same technique using a black base coat, or also called “mottling”.
    I will not go into the incredibly annoying troubles I had with my various airbrushes, as I don’t feel like discussing it, but the job got done well enough. Tomorrow hopefully the overall coat will get done. Also ordered today Montex Masks #K32276, a set of paint masks and decals for the Shiden I want to do, just discovered on the Net today. Hopefully the mail brings my paint supplies from Sprue Brothers, and I can resume the Hayabusa. Sayonara

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 3 months, 1 week ago:

    Looks a very interesting technique, Bill @billkoppos. I have the feeling it will turn out marvellously. Good luck on this George! Must be really imposing at 1/32!

  • Stan Traas said 3 months, 1 week ago:

    Really impressed with your mastery of this technique. Crossing my fingers for your success on the final ‘blend’ coat.

    BTW- Interesting background on first 3 pics… Is that model sitting on your cooker?

  • Pedro L. Rocha said 3 months, 1 week ago:

    Looking forward to see the result of that final coat. I’ve had some reservations about marbling a black base but used it recently and really enjoyed the results. It is a more time consuming technique than say a simple preshade, but it gave much more “depth” (for a lack of a better word to describe)

  • Louis Gardner said 3 months, 1 week ago:

    You’re on a roll here Bill……………. This is another welcome addition to the group. I have never tried painting anything using this method before.

  • Bill Koppos said 2 months ago:

    Well the Montex Masks finally arrived from Auztralia. And I didn’t use them.
    Turns out they are made of some weird plasticine material, not very flexible, and did not stick very well. The set is cut nice enough and I suppose could be used if pressed down hard and sprayed fast. I also wanted it because it included 343-11, Joichi Sugita’s plane, a different one than the commonly seen Kanno’s 343-15. At least I will use the kill marking decal in the set.
    I ended up using a set I had all along, from an outfit called “Maketar” I don’t even remember getting them, that’s how long this one has been languishing. Modeling and senility do not mix. At any rate, the things worked beautifully. They are made of something like Tamiya masking tape, peel and stick and seal really well. They also had an extra set of numbers for each, so I pooched a “one” from the third set to make my 11, have to re-use it on the other side. I used a Testor’s glass jar flat yellow, with a touch of red, for them. The Hinomarus also were fine, even if a bit of work to do the white outlined fuselage one. Using glass jar stuff again, they came out crisp and sharp with no bleed thru like my homemades. NICE. Have to keep an eye out for more Maketars.
    Tomorrow the fuselage stripe and those pesky yellow wing leading edge warning stripes. We’re on a roll. Decals? Hell no.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Colin Gomez said 2 months ago:

    Your Shiden Kai looks superb, Bill. I love the mottling pre-shade technique. I will be watching this closely as I complete my Shiden Kai. I have chosen Kanno’s well known plane but I will also paint the Hinomarus. Probably not the serial numbers, though. Are you planning to do any chipping? I would say it not obligatory for the squadron and period though probably for Kanno’s plane. I am really happy you rescued this one, such inspiring work!

  • Bill Koppos said 2 months ago:

    Thank you Colin. Hasegawa’s decals are generally very good IMHO you can probably use those fine but the hinos are definitely better painted.
    I figure for the time stage represented by this one, some weathering is needed, they were being used hard by several pilots and some paint wear is in order, but not sheets of green peeling off.
    When we’re done we can have a 301 squadron meeting.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months ago:

    That’s a great rescue operation, Bill @billkoppos.
    Love the painted and not decalled stuff. Makes my decalled planes look like cheap toys!
    Looking forward to this one!

  • Erik Gjørup said 2 months ago:

    Inspiring!

  • Louis Gardner said 2 months ago:

    WOW !!!
    Your sprayed on markings look wonderful Bill……………. and I agree, they are much better than a decal any day.

    Nice work bud……….. Two thumbs up.

  • Bill Koppos said 2 months ago:

    Progress lurches on
    Sprayed the rest of the markings that can be sprayed, the buntaicho stripe, left tail lettering and wing no step area strips. Again the Maketar masks were superb. Now I am at the point where some sort of Glosscoat is needed to do the kill marks decal and some small marks and stenciling. I am terrified of glosscoating this because the finish right now looks so damn good to me, and the glosscoat tends to darken things. Also if any panel line enhancement is done, it needs to be glosscoated. Ach, I must bite the bullet.
    Anyway also been working on bits, the landing gear struts are done, gear doors painted, drop tank and prop being worked on. The exhaust assembly is painted with Metallizer exhaust. Hasegawa did some nice job on this. What I thought was a mold seam I missed, is actually welded areas on the real thing.
    Getting close to getting all this together, it almost looks like a Shiden-Kai. At the 2012 Nats I bought a nice Zoukie-Moura accessory for the Raiden I was building, but am going to use it for this one. Can be viewed at the final reveal.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months ago:

    Resque operation couldn’t turn out better, @billkoppos!
    A masterpiece is emerging.

  • Louis Gardner said 2 months ago:

    Bill, @billkoppos
    The work you have shown us here is nothing less than spectacular…………….. Those sprayed on marking are top notch for sure, and your engine looks fantastic too. I’ll be looking forward to seeing your next installment.

  • Bill Koppos said 1 month, 3 weeks ago:

    Shiden is away in it’s revetment for the night. What’s the number one (ichi-ban) problem in model building? Anybody? Everybody? Where do you put them when they done. My latest prolific outburst has strained the areas to put stuff to the limit. The last one, Hayabusa, still sits on the dresser where the wife says everyday “when are you going to find a place for that?” Making matters worse is, I got Cats. Lots of Cats. You don’t leave things just anywhere when you have Cats. Won’t go into small house, no basement, etc. don’t want to bore you. (You’re already bored? Sorry).
    So happens right here next to my beloved PC is a bit of space where the last c**p printer I had chose to die. So it is the temporary (ha) revetment for the Shiden Kai. The Homare engine power egg is finally installed, after I remembered to paint the inside of the cowling. Speaking of the cowling, it fits beautifully snug on the nose, so much so that I can leave it unglued and removeable, for future gazing upon my engine work. Also helps that the prop has a poly cap, also removeable. This prop is a bit of a project itself, 3 colors, yellow tip stripes and 4 decals later, she’s done. The landing gear is holding her up now, a couple of detail mods being done, and a couple I should have done.
    Sleep well, Shiden, tomorrow you get your glosscoat and the weathering begins. I decanted a jar of Tamiya TS-13 Glosscoat for the airbrush. Let’s see how this goes. Hope the paint doesn’t get to dark.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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