Tamiya 1:48 Mitsubishi A6M2

Started by Jeremy Millan · 57 · 3 years ago
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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Nice workspace, Jeremy @jmillan!

    My workspace is a desk I had since I was a primary school student, back in the 70s. It is located in my dedicated hobby room I have in my basement/garage. Here's a pic, with Quality Control Representative 1 (QC/1) performing kit contents Initial Acceptance:

    My paint shop is another moveable student desk that I place at the garage opening each time I want to paint.

    Afterpaint drying facilities at the fence step, just outside the garage

    Lifetime Guardian (Kafetoula) keeps the cats away during drying time, to avoid sticky cat hair mishaps:

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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Nice setup Spiros! @fiveten thanks for the photos. Wish I could work inside the house

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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Been having fun in the paint shop the last couple days. I got the final top coat down. I used XF-76 toned down with white. I thinned the paint way down and built up the color slowly spraying light coats. The photos make it look brighter then it is.

    Then I masked and sprayed the Hinomaru’s and Aotake.

    It came out pretty good. I should of added a couple drops of Hull red to darken up the meatballs a bit. Hopefully the clear coat will do that.

    And finally I painted the cowling. I used some new paint I got Mr. Color Cowling color. Has a nice hue to it. Kind of a blue/black sheen.

    That’s all for now. I might try and paint the blue stripes instead of using the decals. We will see. Then a utility gloss clear coat will be applied. Which I hate doing. I can never get a perfect smooth finish.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Jeremy,
    It has been a little while since I have posted on your build journal, and I read it from where I left off last. As far as a riveting tool, I have picked up two that were called "Rosie the Riveter" and I have used them on numerous projects since then. They were a little expensive, but they work like a dream. The only problem I have encountered while using them was trying to place rivets in areas that are close to a vertical panel such as an engine nacelle. But any of these riveting tools that use a roller wheel concept will have a similar problem. The ones called Rosie the Riveter come in various sizes and even offer a double or triple row tool should you be interested. I have been very happy with mine, and wish I had it when I was working on my 1/48 scale Monogram PBY Catalina several years ago.

    I have never tried the marbling technique, but I must say yours is looking very good. I always manage to spray on too heavy of a coat when I do attempt to pre-shade a model, and this makes it practically useless for me. The one I did that turned out nice was a desert schemed He-111 in overall RLM 79...

    Your Zero is looking very good, now that you are building a Nakajima built A6M, those Aotake colored wheel wells are looking very good. They also had a small white ring that went around the fuselage Hinomaru's...while the Mitsubishi planes did not. The Mitsubishi built planes had their wheel wells painted using the same color as the rest of the exterior, and the Nakajima built birds used Aotake here.

    Here's a link to an article I wrote a while ago that goes into some the little differences between Nakajima and Mitsubishi built machines.

    Random thoughts on Japanese colors. The Japanese A6M Zero…Part 1
    Hope this helps, and you are really rocking your Zero... I love it.
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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    @lgardner As always thanks for the tips Louis and article. The box says it's a Mitsubishi. I was just following the directions. So I the wheel wells are suppose to be the same exterior color then? I might just leave it as I love the Aotake color. It just won't be correct. Thanks

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Jeremy, @jmillan
    It's good the way it is now...Both Mitsubishi and Nakajima both built Zeros...and they were "almost" identical except for some little things that set the manufacturers apart. I read something that parts were not easily interchangeable between the two companies, more so on the very early built examples, so that was a "field expedient" method to easily distinguish between the two different companies planes. You can see it's present on the picture you posted of the Blayd Zero and it's also visible on the picture I posted with the Zero color article.

    All you have to do is add a small white ring around the fuselage Hinomaru and it will be perfect...This white ring is what was said to have been the visual identifier between the two companies. It really does look good how you have it looking now. The Blue Aotake gives it a nice color contrast.

    It's your kit, so what you decide is up to you. Build it how you want to, and remember to have fun.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Very nice paint job here. This will be one sharp looking kite I think.That special color for the nose is just great!

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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Thanks Louis and Erik.
    So i sprayed the flaps a lighter color and the more I look at this plane the more it looks too green. Specially compared to other A6M2’s. It also looks different depending what lights I have on and how it looks on my phone when I take a picture. This is a tricky color to get right. Not sure If I can fix that. Maybe a light grey filter over it. If any one has any suggestions let me know? Thanks

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Hi jeremy @jmillan!

    This is a great looking Zero! Fantastic paint job!

    As for the Aotake, what can I say? I just LOVE Aotake!

    Also followed your nice discussions above with our friend @lgardner, about the colours and schemes, all in great spirit, passion for excellence and having fun! That's one of the main reasons I just love modelling!

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Darn, it looks great! As for the color, only one thing can tell you the truth - bright sun. If it looks OK in the sun, then it is OK. With LED's and energysaver and all the wonders of new, it is very difficult to check any color I think. A picture outside in the sun will tell you the factual color. It looks OK on my screen, albeit with the greenish tint you describe.

    By the way - that Aotake is stunning!

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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    Thanks guys.

    Well I got a good pic outside in natural light and this is the true color how it looks to my eyes. Now is this the correct shade of amber grey, or close to it? Thanks

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    it is amazing how a shade differs depending on the light conditions, Jeremy @jmillan!
    Looks great under ther sun!

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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    It looks way too green to me. Maybe a filter over the top could tone it down. Not sure what color to use though.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    As I'm no expert on these things, I would go to some of Louis Gardners splendid researches here on iModeler, but I do agree with you on the thought that it looks a bit too greenish. To tone it down, I really do not know. A wild guess would be a very thin grey?

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    Jeremy Millan said 3 years, 8 months ago:

    I think I got the color I wanted squared away now. I did a couple highly thinned filters of khaki. Then today I did something different, I sprayed testors lacquer gloss coat out of the can. I have to say I’m pretty impressed. I usually airbrush clear coats but this was so much easier and it came out better then what I can get with the airbrush I think. Best part is no airbrush to clean up. It also darkened up the color so now it’s a more saturated khaki/hemp color which is what I was after. I took a couple photos in different light to make sure the color looks right. Have to say different lighting definitely effects how the color looks.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.