Two 1/32 scale Revell of Germany P-51-D5 Mustang builds. One as ”Cripes a Mighty 3rd” and ”LOU IV”

Started by Louis Gardner · 366 · 1 month ago
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    Louis Gardner said 5 years ago:

    Today I spent some time getting the plastic parts ready for painting on the second Mustang. I have pulled the trigger and it’s official.

    “LOU IV” is now underway.

    I wanted the fuselage parts to be good and dry before I needed them. So these were my first step.


    I did some fitting of the plastic insert to help eliminate the small “step” that is present on the tail section. I used a flat file and some sandpaper and removed the plastic to help the fit.

    Then I applied some Tamiya glue and then clamped it in place once I was happy with the alignment along the fuselage seam. In an attempt to keep things straight I added a wooden splint on the inside and the outside of the fuselage. You can see how it helps to keep the fuselage parts more even and acts as a cushion between the clamp and the plastic.

    Once it dried sufficiently I removed the clamp. You can still see the step but it’s not as bad as it is on the first fuselage half that I built up the other day.


    These next pictures will show the parts laid out for both planes. I have been using a different style of small plastic cup to keep the parts separated for each Mustang.


    Then I decided why not lay everything out for inspection.

    Here’s a few pictures showing the parts for each Mustang.


    I’ll settle for the kit instrument panel for LOU IV since now I have a second set of decals for the panels in case I happen to mess one set up during application.


    Here you can see the difference. I still have to detail paint the kit supplied lower center console on the Yahu panel. I’ll also adjust the tone with some clear to make the upper and lower parts have the same sheen.

    Once I had everything laid out, I realized that the pilots oxygen hose was missing on the second Mustang. Upon closer examination I found it. Still attached to the plastic tree !

    Immediately I got busy and now it’s ready for paint too.

    Please stay tuned for another installment. Tomorrow I will try to get some paint spraying done.

    I have a new (for me at least) thing I am going to try out during the painting.

    I’ll post pictures of how it goes tomorrow evening.

    As usual comments are encouraged.

    Thanks for stopping by.

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years ago:

    Good progress so for Louis (aka Lou IV). Nice technique using the popsicle stick. Since you don't use the red tooth pick any more, maybe you should have the stick in red? Lol. Anyway stepping on what looks a pretty nice Revell kit. Looks so much more detailed compared to the old Revell Mustang, like the P-51B I have in the stash. Looking forward to what you have coming up next.

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    Tom Bebout said 5 years ago:

    Looking good Louis, in addition to plastic I didn't know you had a Popsicle addiction. There has to be a self help group for this somewhere. Maybe David Leigh-Smith can provide some incite into this condition .Nice job on the build update, I'll be following along.

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    Stephen W Towle said 5 years ago:

    Louis, I think the premise of these newer Revell 1/32nd kits is to offer reasonably priced kits allowing the modeler to either stick with the program and go stock or you can get after market products. The instrument panel is a good example. I have boughten resin wheels, there are props, and exhaust stacks and of course the decal situation. This kit is not the Tamiya of 1/32nd scale or the Porsche of kits but, it represents the Mopar of model builds you can bolt on cool stuff depending on your budget.

    Furthermore, the early Mustang with out the fin fillet was the ride for many Aces who managed to survive through the war. Pilots had to start some where and during their war time experiences they piloted more than one aircraft...considering Mustangs where considered to be throw away aircraft with TBO's of 100 hrs for the engines. Not like the Warbirds that if handle right they can get 1000 hrs out of the engines if they baby it right. Like the pilots the aircraft where constantly changing only the photographers and PR weren't always there to record some of the earlier birds. Such as "Cripes a Mighty", In looking on the net there are more early birds with out the fin fillet that can be done.

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    david leigh-smith said 5 years ago:

    Some nice comments and observations, Stephen. Having made a habit these days of looking though literally hundreds of WW2 photos each week, I can see your points.

    Louis, seems to me you are trying to raise the bar on each WiP. Each degree of improvement is noticeably raising the quality of photography and narrative. Great work, Louis, enjoyable and friendly as ever.

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    Louis Gardner said 5 years ago:

    Thanks gentlemen for the compliments and comments. I’ll make sure that I post a more appropriate reply to you as soon as I have access to the computer. Right now I’m posting pictures using my phone.

    It’s been a while since I have posted an update. Prior to last night, I have been busy with cleaning up parts and building up a few small things.

    I have a lot of stuff ready that has not been photographed. It’s mainly a bunch of parts that I will show you later during the assembly phase.

    As with most of my builds I have been doing a lot of research.

    I found that some of the Mustangs had the seats painted from the factory using the usual “interior green” FS 34151 or a “dull dark green”. I used FS 36096 for the dark green and painted the seat on the left using this shade.



    One other thing I found out is this is the type of seat that should be in the D-5 version of the Mustangs. The other “squared off” style of seat that is supplied in the kit was used on the later D models.

    Believe it or not each seat type had a name for it.

    The rounded type that I am using for my builds was called the “Warren McArthur” style.

    The square type is often referred to as the “Schick Johnson” style seat.

    Please keep in mind that both seats will interchange and could have been swapped out in the field, so if you have references it might be a good idea to check it out to be certain.

    I also found out that the armor plating behind the pilots seat was painted black. Here’s how they’re painted now.

    The new thing (for me at least) that I wanted to try out on this build was “black based” painting. I have read about it and I wanted to give it a try. This is my first time going this route.

    Here’s how the interior of the fuselage looks once a very thin coat of interior green was sprayed on top of the black.


    I sprayed the majority of the parts using the black color first. The propellers will need a little more detail work done on them such as painting the tips Yellow and the hub in a metallic color.

    Here’s a few pictures of the small parts that I have painted. Some are black and others have had a light coat of interior green sprayed over the black.




    Since I was spraying the “interior green” color, I painted the remaining parts that make up the majority of the cockpit.



    I have also been researching the colors used in the wheel wells and various other areas of the Mustangs during construction. I have found that this stuff is like walking around in a mine field ! Luckily there’s a few restoration shops that have documented several original untouched Mustangs as they took them apart during the initial phases of the restoration.

    It doesn’t hurt to have a good friend like Jim Harley either ... Jim has helped me with some of this stuff. Thanks again buddy !

    I have mixed up a color that is very close to the light “yellow green” Zinc Chromate.

    Here’s how it looks sprayed on the interior of the wing.


    I also sprayed the tail wheel areas using the color.

    This area will have a lot more detail painting done before assembly. They used various colors in this location and it was a sort of evolution as the wartime production ramped up.

    Here you can see the difference between the interior green and the color I mixed up.


    On this particular version of the Mustang, they often left the center section where the wing halves were jointed in bare anodized aluminum color or it was painted using interior green.

    I decided to paint mine using interior green. Here you can see how the two colors look side by side.

    This next picture shows the difference between the colors I have used so far.

    The seat armor plate is black.

    The seat is dull dark green for one Mustang. The other seat is going to remain interior green for the second Mustang.

    The interior of the wing is in yellow zinc chromate.

    Finally the firewall is interior green.

    Here’s how the work bench is looking at the moment. Plastic containers filled with parts that need more detail painting.

    As usual comments are encouraged.

    Thanks for stopping by. Please stay tuned for updates and I have another idea I want to try out using Bare Metal Foil.

    I think you just might like it ...

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    Stephen W Towle said 5 years ago:

    Louis,

    Aircorp Aviation does a good job of documenting and sharing photos of their restorations. "Sierra Sue" a P-51D with a War time history being one of them. They did a complete tear down with lots of fabrication. Lots of photos with interior shots of the aircraft ...many of them with the skins removed. I used to see this plane out at "Flying Cloud" airport it was owned by a dentist who often flew it at shows and was gracious enough to answer questions. It obviously has changed hands.

    P-51D “Sierra Sue II”
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    George R Blair Jr said 5 years ago:

    Your research is meticulous, Louis. I'm afraid that I usually don't do a lot of research on the colors of some of the details and spend more time on the exterior. I am looking forward to seeing how the interiors look with these colors when they are all built up.

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    Louis Gardner said 5 years ago:

    Hello again gents...

    Stephen, @stephen-w-towel

    That is an amazing website. Thanks for sharing the link with us !

    They have posted some very useful restoration pictures, and a bunch of great Mustang photos in general . Their work looks to be well documented. Besides my personally seeing several Mustangs undergoing restoration at American Aero Services, this one is the only one that I have noticed the original style "Alcoa" aluminum manufacturing stencils on the inside of the fuselage and wings. They also had "Reynolds" stencils, depending on which suppliers metal they were using during the production run. These stencils gave the thickness of the metal... and things like manufacturer lot numbers etc. ... they often disappeared when the plane was cleaned. But the remained in places that didn't get a scrubbing down, mainly on the interior of the fuselage and wings.

    Very cool indeed. Thank you very much for posting this.

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    Louis Gardner said 5 years ago:

    Hello George,

    Congrats on your Imodeler award ! That's a great Hurricane model you picked out as the award.

    I try to do my homework, when I do a build. For me it's just as enjoyable as actually making something. I think that when it's all said and done with, these two should be fairly accurate in colors, inside and out. I'm getting ready to post up another installment, so stay tuned !

    Thanks again, and I look forward to seeing your build review on your new kit from the Imodeler staff. I'm sure it will look outstanding as do all of your builds.

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    Louis Gardner said 5 years ago:

    Tonight I assembled the landing gear wells and one wing is close to being done. Please follow along and I'll show you what I did.

    I started out by covering the inside of the upper wing half using "Matt Aluminum" Bare Metal Foil.


    Once I had it burnished down properly into all of the little nooks and crannies of the wing, I started trimming off the areas that I wanted to show through. I used a brand new Exacto #11 blade to do this. Once I trimmed off the foil, I carefully removed it exposing the green stringers.

    Then I installed the wing ribs. It's starting to look good ... This will represent the bare metal which was actually the inside of the skin on the upper portion of the wing.


    The other side received the same treatment ... and I added the center rib where the wing halves were bolted together on the real Mustang.

    This part was painted using "Interior Green"

    Some detail painting was done on the part before it was installed. It actually doesn't look this dark.

    Next I test fit the upper and lower wing halves together. Things fit very good. I clamped them together to see for sure. So far, so good.

    This shows the effect of the bare metal foil inside the wing. This area often had "Alcoa" stenciling present. The stencils showed the lot number of the metal and the thickness gauge. I chose not to do this on mine. The stenciling was only present on one side of the metal. It could have shown up on either side of the wing.

    Here's the same view from another angle. The interior green paint looks a little more acceptable on the wing center joint rib in these next pictures.



    Next I drilled out the holes for the bomb and fuel tank shackles.

    I also installed the signaling light lenses. I painted the back side of them using Tamiya Clear Yellow, Red and Green.

    It looks pretty cool when you hold it up to a light... if I had some LED's... Hmmm. Nope not doing it. Maybe one of you can. It would work.

    Then I glued everything together and clamps things in place to dry overnight.

    Topside view:


    and from underneath... The wing leading edges still need to be installed.

    As always, comments are encouraged.

    Thanks for looking. 🙂

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    Tom Bebout said 5 years ago:

    Outstanding Louis.

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    Matt Minnichsoffer said 5 years ago:

    Love the work so far.

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 11 months ago:

    Thanks gentlemen @tom-bebout

    and @coondog

    for the compliments.

    This build has been on hold for a while. I was wondering how I was going to tackle the flaps. The kit provided parts lack rivet details. Since they will be partly covered in Bare Metal Foil, the rivet details will stand out big time. The flaps did not have putty applied to them. They were not smoothed out like some of the other parts of the wing. So they will be covered in foil instead of getting painted.

    I wanted them to look good, since dropped flaps on a Merlin powered Mustang go together like peanut butter and jelly... cookies and cream... pepperoni and pizza. 🙂

    So I saved up and finally pulled the trigger for these rivet rolling tools. I ordered a 0.55 MM and a .075 MM rivet scribing tool. I can use these for other builds. Depending on how I like these, I may end up saving up for a few more sizes.



    When they arrive I'll post up a few pictures and try them out.

    Until then,
    Comments are encouraged...

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 7 months ago:

    The Rosie the Riveter tool arrived a while ago. A few days ago I tried it out on the B-25 that's currently on the bench. I'm happy to report these tools are fantastic, and work like a champ... Now I can tackle the flaps on these two 'Stangs...

    Meanwhile during this 4 month work halt, I have been doing some research and found something out that was very interesting, at least for a Geek like me. As usual, this happened because of a problem I encountered.

    I found out there were 5 types of various treads that were used on Mustangs.

    1. Plain smooth tire
    2. Diamond pattern
    3. Cross pattern
    4. Block pattern
    5. Hexagonal pattern

    As luck would have it, this plane had the last one mentioned. You can clearly see them in these next two photos. This plane is Cripes A Mighty 3rd.


    The next plane is the one that Major Preddy was killed in, and is a newer version of the Mustang with a filleted tail assembly. It too has the Hexagonal style.

    The ones provided in the kit are the Diamond pattern... They look really nice when built up and painted.

    They even have holes in them where you can see through to the other side... just like the real plane does.

    I'll use this set on "Lou IV"... unless I happen to run across a photo showing otherwise. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

    I have two sets of aftermarket resin wheels for some other 1/32 scale Pony's in the stash.


    I have two of the older Hasegawa kits, and one of the old Revell B model. I'll save these resin wheels for them. You can see how they are clearly thicker than the kit supplied wheels in the new tool Revell P-51D.

    Today was prop and wheel day at the Iron Werks. I painted the center hubs on the props...and have the tips masked for some yellow .

    This next photo shows the kit supplied wheel as I'm getting ready to paint the center hub. These really are some nice wheels.

    I know that Barracuda Cast offers a resin wheel in the tread pattern I need. Unfortunately I would have to purchase the new center hub as well, since the wheels are designed for use on the Tamiya 'Stang.

    I thought I would give it a go and attempt something new for me. Scratch building the tread pattern myself. OK I can hear you thinking to yourself... this guy is nuts !

    So I sanded off the existing diamond pattern on one set of wheels... and started making my own knobby lugs.


    So far so good. It's not too hard to do once I did the math and figured out what size these lugs had to be.

    Once everything is done and has dried, I'll sand the wheels down to reduce the overall diameter, and make the hexagonal lugs look more scale in depth. This will also restore the round shape to the tire.

    In a worst case scenario, I'll end up having to purchase a set of wheels from Roy... I wanted to give it a try and see if I could expand my building skills. If it doesn't work out I'll go to plan B and buy a set.

    As always,
    comments are encouraged.