1/48 Revell F-86D Sabre in Hellenic Air Force Colors

  • 45 posts
  • Last reply 2 days, 14 hours ago
  • 1/48, F-86D, Hellenic Air Force, Revell
Viewing 16 - 30 of 45 posts
  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Thanks Spiros (@fiveten). That was my thought also. Why bother to paint the inside of the slats if they didn’t need to be painted? I am going with natural metal in the slat recess, and camo everywhere else. Should look cool and not tax my limited NMF ability too much. :o)

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Erik (@airbum), you guys that live close to air museums kill me. The museums I want to visit are a hundreds of miles away from my house. Maybe you can go visit your museum during lunch? Or the weekend? I thought I saw a Danish F-86D in an all dark green color?

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Sorry to dissapoint you George – I live 1½ hours drive from work, so I do not usually go there in my spare time (and I often work in the weekends). I work in the tower, and usually I’m alone there, and have to take lunch “in the chair”. Now, I absolute love my job, so not complaining here!.
    The second – and more relevant – dissapointment is that the F-86D was indeed bare metal in RDAF service. After retirement they were put out to be shot at and used as decoys. When the RDAF started painting operational fighters green, the decoys got a rather rough layer too, that may have been the green one you have seen?
    Enough from me for now – looking forward to the next update when you get around to it.
    Stay safe!

  • Louis Gardner said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Hello George,
    Your F-86D build has captured my attention……….. The work you have done so far looks very good too. I have done the same thing as you with the nose wight before. Once I even managed to pull the fuselage back apart before the glue had fully set up……….so I could go back and add the weight. It happens !!!

    Now I am not an “expert” on the Sabre, but I have a question for you guys about the difference in the wing for the “F” model and the earlier “A” model. These are supposedly the Korean War versions.

    The main visible difference was located in the wing. Do you guys happen to know offhand how these were different ?? I know that one wing was bigger than the other, and there was also something different about the wing chord and that affected the leading edge taper………….. Were the slats different too ???

    Any of you Sabre gurus out there please educate me on the other differences if you don’t mind. Thanks in advance.

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    Hi, Louis (@lgardner). That’s why I generally use slow-drying glue on the major parts of my models….Just in case I need to reposition (or pull apart) something. I haven’t forgotten nose weights, but I have forgotten parts that need to be added before buttoning things up, or put parts in the wrong place. I think we have all been there. Sometimes I don’t catch the issue in time….maybe we should start a group that is a gallery of photos of models with obvious problems we didn’t catch in time.

    As far as the F-86, I am not a big expert. I know that they started with leading edge slats, and later removed them only to discover their removal led to significant handling problems during takeoff and were then added again to later models. I think a wing fence was added at some point. An all-flying tail was added, I think on the E model. The D model is totally different and was the first US plane with no machine guns. I found this chart on Pinterest that does a much better job than I can.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    Hi, Erik (@airbum). Now that I am retired, I have the luxury of having some free time to model. But prior to retiring, I was a military pilot for 20 years, and then a high school and college instructor for 20 years, and I was lucky to finish 3 or 4 models per year. I’m not sure how you have time to work on all of the models you build and still have a job. Have you given up sleeping at night?

    I did some looking around online yesterday and found an all-green paint scheme on a Danish F-104, as well as some other camouflage on others, but a lot of natural metal also. It might be fun to build an all-green F-104. Cheers.

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Today was painting day. I hate it when I get to this part of the build. I always worry that after getting the kit basically completed that there is so much that can go wrong in the painting and decal stages. The core of the model was done, the joints were filled as needed, and everything was prepared for painting. Sub-assemblies, such as the underwing tanks, the gear doors, and so on were also prepared for painting. I had previously planned to use Chipping Fluid to add chipping to this model, but I decided I wanted to represent a plane that was newer.

    I used some masks by a company called New Ware. I had never used them before, but they seem to come out with masks for a lot of older models, such as the Revell F-86D. The masks for the forward part of the canopy were slightly big and needed a little trimming. There was a mask for the intricate outline of the radome, which fit perfectly. The masks for the wheels didn’t work very well for me. The masks are made of very thin paper tape, similar to Eduard, but the masks for the wheels were not very wide. They were so limp that I found it impossible to get them nudged into a circle that matched the hub of the wheel. After destroying two of the masks, along with a lot of really creative language, I decided I would just hand-paint the hubs. I don’t think it was a problem with the masks, rather there was some “operator error” involved.

    I began the painting process by painting the black radome and anti-glare panel on the nose. I then lightened the black and highlighted the panel lines on the nose. I am usually too subtle here, but I think the highlighting may be a little too light here, but I will take care of that later in the build.

    For the bottom of the plane, I used Tamiya Superfine Gray Primer sprayed directly from the can. After it was dry, I applied a slightly darker color to the panel lines to accent the panels.

    For the topside, I used Tamiya Dark Sea Gray lightened with some white for the initial application of the gray color. I then added a little blue gray and sprayed a random pattern over the first application, following by a very thin application of the original color to blend everything together. I was looking for a slightly splotchy tone that would depict some sun fading.

    After the gray dried, I applied the green color using Tamiya Japanese Dark Green. I decided to try applying the dark paint first, then followed by a splotchy application of the lightened color. I thinned the lightened color considerably and didn’t quite get the appearance I was looking for. I added a little yellow to the mix and repeated the application, this time getting an appearance closer to what I wanted.

    At this point, I removed all of the masking and checked the application for problems. So far everything looks OK, but I like to let it dry overnight and then check the paint again. I still need to mask the recesses and tracks for the leading edge slats and paint them. Everything I can find looks like this area was natural metal. I also need to mask the gear wells and paint them green primer. Then it will be time for some clear gloss to prepare for the decals. Yeah!

    I also took a shot at painting the anti-collision beacon that sits on a panel behind the ejection seat. All of the photos I could find of this beacon showed it to be red with what appeared to be a coating of something that gave it a touch of yellow. I mixed red and yellow Tamiya clear paints and painted an initial coat on the light. I followed this with a light coat of clear red. Not great, but I think it will look OK. I can’t quite imagine what it was like to fly at night with this beacon illuminated right behind the pilot. I would think you would get all kinds of reflections off the canopy, but obviously it worked because they flew for years in this configuration.

    That’s it for today. I hope everyone is staying safe during this trying time. Things are getting a little scary here in Texas, but my wife and I are doing our best to hide out. Cheers till next time.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    That’s terrific progress, George @gblair!
    Your Sabredog looks better and better!
    We hear that the situation in Texas is not very good.
    Take care, my fiend, and stay safe!

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Today ended up being painting day number two. It wasn’t supposed to be, but it just worked out that way. I usually pause for a day or two after I finish the paint to check for flaws and to see if everything looks OK. When I looked at the F86, the camo just looked too uniform.

    I also discovered I had missed a wedge of dark green camo under the right stabilizer. The last thing I needed to fix involved the anti-glare panel on the nose. In the diagram that came with the decals, the panel looked black, which matched what I thought the color should be. I was looking at the decals when I noticed two decals that would be placed on the anti-glare panel. The decals were black. My first thought was how can you have black stencils on a black panel? So, this time I actually looked at the notes next to the colors on the decal instructions and discovered that the panel should be olive drab. I had a lot to work on, but I figured it would be quick to fix all of this stuff. It ended up taking a couple of hours.

    I still needed to paint the zinc chromate in the gear wells, as well as the natural metal in the recesses for the leading edge slats. 40 or 50 yards of masking tape later, I was ready to start painting. My masking may seem like over-kill, but it sure beats finding overspray later. I used AK Real Colors for the zinc chromate and I sprayed Airfix silver from a can. I sprayed the anti-glare panel using Tamiya olive drab. The masking did its job and I ended up with nice, clean additions to the plane.

    At this point I mixed some variations of the basic camo colors and began to add some splotchy highlights and dark patches that, when coupled with some weathering fluids and pastels, will look like a slightly weathered, sun-bleached airplane. This took most of the painting time, as I was looking for something that was noticeable, but subtle. I like the way it came out and I am looking forward to adding the decals and weathering.

    The anti-glare panel is still bothering me. It looks too light. I may go back and repaint it in a darker color. It will put me a couple of days behind where I wanted to be, but I would rather get it right. Hopefully tomorrow I will resolve the anti-glare panel and finally get some clear gloss on the plane. After the gloss, I always let the model dry for at least 24 hours.

    I wanted to share my favorite tool for cleaning my airbrush after use. It got a lot of use today. One day I was in the drug store and found a tool by a company called Sunstar for cleaning between your teeth. It has a small brush that fits into the small areas on my ancient single action Paasche airbrush. It’s actual name is the GUM Proxabrush. It works great for cleaning the airbrush, is unaffected by the cleaners I use for my acrylics, and they seem to last forever. I have been using this same brush for over a month, and still have 7 more in the package.

    Cheers, and everyone stay safe.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week ago:

    Looks great George @gblair!
    Love the microbrush!

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 week ago:

    @gblair, that was two great posts I’ve missed – as for the previous post, I think you are right about the masking sheet – with a little imagination it is a “pirate grin”
    I like the re-visit of the paint – looks really good now! Keep it up my friend!

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week ago:

    Thanks Erik @airbum and Spiros @fiveten. Here is my third and final answer for the anti-glare panel. It is a Tamiya dark green, I think the color was actual Olive Drab, with some black added. Clear gloss next.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week ago:

    This build is getting better and better, George @gblair!
    I can sense the decal time isn’t too far away?
    All the best, my friend, and stay safe.

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 week ago:

    @gblair, what a coincidence – I went to the pharmacy here in Denmark today, and they had the exact same airbrush cleaning tool as you use! I noticed on my way out, and they were eager to close, so will have to go again to by modeling tools there.

    The last nose looks splendid!

  • George R Blair Jr said 1 week ago:

    Erik (@airbum), this tool is the best thing since sliced bread. I use alcohol to clean my airbrush, so there is nothing harsh to destroy the brush. The pack should last a year or more.

Viewing 16 - 30 of 45 posts