1964 Monogram P-40 Nostalgia Build

Started by George R Blair Jr · 80 · 4 weeks ago · . 1/48, 1964, Monogram, P-40
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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Great work on the filling and sanding, George @gblair
    The 3D printed pilot looks really good, quite some details.

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    Stephen W Towle said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I second that 3D pilot. Looks like Jake 2.0 turned out pretty good. He has a boxers nose. However, his head is a lot better than the original George (@gblair).

    Also,the spinner and prop combination is looking good. All of the color photos of the Flying Tigers show aircraft with DuPont Green. I have never come across photos showing red or yellow spinners. Yet, the history books and some of the Flying Tiger pilots have stated that they painted the spinners different colors to fool the Japanese into thinking that there were more squadrons in theater.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    HI, John (@j-healy): I was thinking this was one of the box scale kits, so my next question was going to be about decals. It looks like you have that one solved. I know the people that make decals for airliners usually have some available for the box scale kits. I am still trying to figure what I am using for my P-40.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Hi, Bob (@v1pro), Spiros (@fiveten), John (@johnb), and Stephen (@stephen-w-towle): Thanks for stopping by. I had a set of markings for three of the P-40s at Pearl Harbor that I planned to use for this build, but I found some other good decals in my stash. I think it will be a game-time decision. Jake had some major surgery so that he would fit in the cockpit. His legs were way too long for the rudder pedals, so I chomped them off. He still isn't a great fit, so I think I will leave him loose so I can remove him without damaging anything.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I was gone most of the day today, but I managed to get a little done. I did some (hopefully) final sanding on the nose, and then tried dry fitting the wings. I noticed there is a gap at the front of the wings where they meet the cooling flaps for the engine. I decided to thin out the cowl flaps and then added some sprue to the forward part of the wing. I think the way to approach attaching the wing to the fuselage is to glue only the bottom, center section to the fuselage, saving the wing roots till later. I think it will be easier and safer to add the dihedral if the wings are already solidly attached to the fuselage. Hopefully more tomorrow. Cheers.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Excellent progress and very nice tackling of the fit issues, my friend @gblair! Looking forward to the complete gluing of the wing to the fuselage.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    That's a great solution to this gap, George @gblair
    Nice approach on getting the wings on nicely as well.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Thanks for coming by, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). I hadn't used rubber bands to hold things together in a long time. I think it was John who used them a while back on a model and they worked so efficiently that I wanted to try them again.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I had some doctor things that slowed down the build a little, but moved the build a little more forward today. I think I will be in a position tomorrow to start painting.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Stephen W Towle said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    First time I have seen a model look like a stringed instrument. The pilot figure looks better with a primer and a coat of paint. George (@gblair) did the rubber bands return the wings to the proper dihedral?

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Hi, Stephen (@stephen-w-towle): The plane definitely has some dihedral now. I don't know if it is the right amount, but I am happy with it. Colors are a little dark, but the highlights will take care of that (hopefully). I haven't used rubber bands for a long time. I forgot how useful they can be.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Very good progress, George @gblair
    That's indeed the same approach I use as well to get the wings on without a gap 🙂
    Jake starts to look like a real pilot as well, nice painting.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb): You are where I got the idea from. I used rubber bands all the time, but stopped using them several years ago. I'm not sure why, but they work great again.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I was at a place in the build where I thought I could paint the bottom of the plane. I sprayed the bottom with an initial layer of Tamiya Neutral Gray, then took the leftover paint and added some white and a bunch of thinner to create a slightly lighter shade. I sprayed this in random patterns along the line of airflow. I was looking for subtle, so it is a little hard to see.

    Before I painted the top, I needed to get the glass installed. I started by painting the inset area behind the cockpit with an anonymous Tamiya dark drab color, then painted the fuel fillers red. It was time to add the glass. The kit clear parts were very clear, so I had high hopes for the glass. You have a choice of a one-piece canopy to cover everything, or the separate pieces that will allow an open canopy. This is where the trouble started. Clear plastic is always a little brittle, but this ancient glass was in the very brittle range. Apparently the years were not kind. All of the canopy pieces were attached to the sprue with very large attachment points. I wanted to be safe, so I planned to clip sprue for the one-piece canopy about 1/4" away from the canopy. When I clipped the sprue, it also took a sizable chunk out of the canopy. Totally unrepairable, so I switched to the movable canopy. Again, I wanted to play it safe, so I decided to use a micro-saw to remove the canopy from the sprue. What I should have done was cut the sprue away from the canopy, but I figured it was safe to cut next to the canopy. When I got done, I realized the saw was scoring the side windows of the movable canopy. 30 minutes of progressively finer sanding stick, followed by polishing with my T-shirt, then polishing with car polish, then a dip in Future. I think it is OK now. I will face the newly polished part tomorrow, as well as the rest of the glass tomorrow. Cheers.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Interesting, Dmitry (@starfar). I got some "ASK" decals a couple of weeks ago and their instructions say you can remove the clear film using lighter fluid. I don't know how that might harm the paint on the model. I was reading an online article a while back that claims that Eduard says the film on their decals isn't designed to be removable, yet everyone says it works. I think I am sticking to the old ways.