Academy F-4J 1/72

Started by George R Blair Jr · 66 · 4 years ago · Academy, F-4J, Ferris, Greg Kittenger, Phantom, World of Phantoms
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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    The changing nature of hobby paints has been a source of never-ending consternation for me. At one time, I used nothing but Floquil lacquers. They thinned nicely and went on dense and smooth. Of course, there was the brain-eating odor and health hazards to deal with. When those became unavailable, I switched over to Model Master enamels. My life changed when I couldn't readily get enamels anymore and I was forced to switch over to acrylics. I think I tried every brand there was at the time and had little success. At one point I actually stopped building for about 6 months out of the frustration of being unable to get a consistent result with acrylics in my airbrush. Everyone I knew was getting good results with Vallejo, yet I was absolutely unable to get a decent finish with them. I finally discovered Tamiya and could get good results. Just in the last few months I have gotten some good results with Vallejo Model Air and Mission Model Acrylic paints. Just recently I had read some articles in some of the model magazines from the UK where the builder got really good results with AK Real Colors. This is a hybrid acrylic-lacquer. I have read that Tamiya is also a similar hybrid, but not an actual lacquer. An acrylic-lacquer seems like an oxymoron, but I guess it all makes sense. I'm an old airplane pilot, not a chemist, so I'm not going to burn too many brain cells trying to figure these mysteries out. I got a few bottles of the AK Real Colors and their lacquer thinner for my F-4 project, and found these paints have all of the good things about the old lacquer paints with none of the down side. It thins nicely, goes on very thin and dense, and dries quickly. The smell of the paints and lacquer thinner is very small compared to the old days. I did discover one very cool thing about these paints today. I had already painted all of the dark gray camouflage and then went back and masked off the gear wells and painted them white. A lot of acrylics wouldn't have done well painting white over a dark color, but one coat of these paints completely covered the gray underneath and gave me some really white gear wells. One of the best selling points for this line of paints is the massive selection of colors that are available. I haven't tried weathering over these paints yet, but I plan to do some weathering over these colors on the F-4. I will let you know how this goes. The way my luck usually goes, just when I really start liking this paint, they will stop making it, or there will be some sort of import restrictions, or someone will buy out AK & stop making the paints, etc, etc. I have my fingers crossed.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Paint is just about done. Clear gloss next, followed by decals. Clear flat and weathering to follow. I used Vallejo Metal Colors for the metallic area on the aft end of the fuselage. I had never used these metallic acrylics before. Had a lot of trouble with paint clogging the tip of my airbrush, but managed to power through. I still need to do some shading & highlighting on the metallic area, but I think I will use something besides the Vallejo Metals.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    I used AK Real Colors gloss lacquer to add the gloss coat to the model in preparation for adding the decals. Had some interesting results. Thinned the paint just like I used for the previous color coats. It sprayed well for a minute and then started spraying thin threads of what I suppose is prematurely dry lacquer.

    My first impulse is always to somehow fix the bad paint on the part immediately, which usually results in a much bigger problem. So, experience told me to let it dry and then see how bad the problem really was. The offending threads came off without a problem, leaving no trace on the part. I'm not sure what happened. I tried more pressure, less pressure, more thinner, and less. I checked the local weather for the humidity, which for south-central Texas was really low. I cleaned the airbrush. What I finally discovered was that a really thin mix of the clear lacquer, probably 50/50, and compressor pressure set at 20 psi. A couple of thin coats resulted in something shiny that I hope the decals will like.

    I always have a recurring fear when I reach this point in a build that I will do something with the clear coats that will destroy the model (ask me why I worry). If anyone knows what causes these threads, please let me know. I am too old to have these kind of scares this deep into the build. My plan is to let the clear coat dry at least a day and then start on the decals. I plan a short ceremony to activate my karma with the decal gods before I start on the numerous markings for the F-4. :o)

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    Don Mk1a said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    I’m with you on the changing nature of paint. I’m seriously considering going back to Humbrol Enamel. Smelly as hell but always the same.
    (My son ‘made’ me switch because the fumes)

    I note that your clear coat problem started after a minute of successful spraying. Could it be incomplete mixing? It’s always difficult to know when clear is thoroughly mixed as there’s nothing to see. That’s why i find it’s so hard to clean up the airbrushes after. I picture a clot of unthinned varnish making its deadly way through the paint cup before going all candyfloss (cotton candy) on you.

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Hmm - learning from how you are grappling with some of these issues. I just bought a whole set of the Vallejo metal paints (after watching some demos of them), and as I'm just entering into life as an airbrusher, I'm trying to absorb all wisdom and problem-solving ideas before I shoot too much stuff out of my brush!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Don, you have hit on one of my fears. I really worry about unmixed paint, but I try to solve this by using a battery-powered mixer I got from MicroMark for just a few bucks.

    I try to thoroughly mix the paint before I use it. Where I run into trouble is when the mix isn't quite right, so I add a few drops of either thinner or paint to fix things. I know there are a lot of really precise painters who get exact ratios of paint to thinner, but I use the TLAR method (That Looks About Right). So I "eyeball" the amount of paint & thinner in the airbrush cup, and then adjust. This usually works pretty well, but sometimes not so much. I also try to spray some thinner through my airbrush to get rid of the mix that wasn't quite right. Sadly, sometimes in the heat of battle I send poorly mixed paint through the airbrush, or don't clean it before I try a new mix. As far as the stringy threads go, I am really leaning toward too much air pressure, since the humidity was low (for South Texas) when I was painting.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Greg, you will probably learn a lot from me concerning what not to do when you are airbrushing. If you are entering into the airbrush world, you will probably never use anything else. I still grab a rattle can every now and then, but an airbrush is the way to go. I'm sure you have seen from my comments on this build that an airbrush can take you from the heights of modeling to the depths of despair very quickly. It is a source of sublime misery for me. Finding a place to work with your airbrush is a lot of the equation. I was lucky a couple of years ago when we were enclosing a patio to make another room. I asked the contractor if he could put a bathroom vent in the wall and I had a ready-made exhaust vent for my painting. You do need to be careful with your fan selection in case it sparks and ignites oil-based paint fumes, but since my fumes are acrylic I think I am OK. In keeping with the idea that I will show you what I do and you should do the opposite, here is a photo of where I paint. Hopefully you will keep your area a lot cleaner. Enjoy your airbrush!

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    Don Mk1a said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    I like your spray bay, George. I have nothing at all right now as i threw my old one away when I wasn’t building. It wasn’t very good and took a lot of space in a small flat. I’m going to spray the first of my Hellcats over the sink in the kitchen with the windows open. If I get it finished, I’ll build another extraction unit.

    I use a coffee frothier too. Several in fact with the business end modified for bottles, tinlets etc. I often mix in the airbrush itself and store the ingredients together using a paintbrush. This can reach right to the bottom and around the needle which passes through the paint reservoir.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    It is a luxury to have the space to build a permanent paint setup like this. I started modeling in a small efficiency apartment, so I know about problems with limited space. I have always thought that airbrush painting is like any other art form in that you must practice to get better. I just retired a couple of years ago and now have time to actually build something, as well as practice using the airbrush. You would think I would keep my painting area clean and straight, but I tend to move from one model to the next and simply push the previous paints to one side. At some point, I run out of room and am forced to put all the paints away and clean the area, as well as put a new filter in the paint hood.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    OK, decals are done. I limited myself to one hour decal sessions, two per day, spread over 2 days. I found that dealing with the small decals and stencils would get me rather tense after an hour or so. The decals from Cut-Then-Add (CTA) were great. They were thin with dense color. The only problem I found was that they come from the "stick-where-they-land" type of decal. I found that they would not allow adjustment no matter how much water or MicroSet I used in their application. I managed to get the major markings on the plane in the vicinity of where they should be, but I decided to use the kit decals for the stencils and smaller markings. Some of the colors were a little different than the CTA decals, but I think they look OK. The Academy decals were wonderful to use and allowed a lot of positioning time with just a little MicroSet. After everything was in place, I spread on some MicroSol to snug everything down. The MicroSol gave me a little scare because it appeared to stain the paint everywhere I used it. The stain disappeared after it dried. I still need to wash the plane down to remove any residue from the decals or MicroSol/Set and let it dry. I was really dreading all of the decals on this plane, so I am glad to be on the other end of the process. All I have left is to spray some clear flat to seal everything down, do some minor weathering and stains, and then assemble the small parts. I plan a small party when I finally pull the canopy masks off and call it complete. I am not quite at the end of this project, but you can see the end from here. Yeah!

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Don Mk1a said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Keep on going there, George. Don't relax too much and mess up at the end as some of us do!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Thanks, Don. When talking about messing up at the end: been there, done that, and I have the t-shirt. This build has been so trouble-free that I worry that something is sneaking up on me. :o)

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    @gblair the Phantom is comin along rather well! I like your trackboard! - essential for the incredible amount of decals on this one I suppose - I will "steal" that idea right away!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Done. All of the decals are finally on, followed by a coat of clear flat. I did a little weathering with some Starship Grime from AK Oilbrushers, and then did some panel washes with Tamiya Black Wash. The final assembly came next, with, of course, a last minute problem. As I began to add the gear doors, I discovered that I was missing one of the smaller doors that sit on the centerline of the aircraft. I remember seeing it yesterday when I added its decals, but it was MIA today. I don't know if it walked away, or jumped out of the box, or whatever. Luckily, thanks to some fortuitous planning by Academy, I had an extra part. Academy provided all the separate doors necessary to build a gear-down version, as well as a one-piece part that incorporated all the gear doors to build a gear-up version. So, all I needed to do to fix my MIA part was to cut off the required door from the one-piece gear door set, paint it, and add it to the plane. Anyway, this was a great kit to build and was almost completely trouble-free. It brought back all sorts of memories from my early days in the Air Force at Luke AFB when it was the training base for Air Force F-4s. The F-4 was a beast that had an unmistakable presence that made it one of the coolest planes I have ever seen. So, hats off to all of you who either flew the F-4 or kept it in the air. Now, on to something less demanding, like a fully-rigged sailing ship or something. Just kidding. :o)

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Yowwee - that's a lovely Phantom! Great weathering - just right for this short-term scheme. Now that I've seen you build your Academy kit, I'm eager to get to mine (though it's a bit back in the queue...)