Cadillac of the Sky - a few P-51 D made by two

Started by Pedro L. Rocha · 155 · 8 months ago · 1/48, Airfix, Eduard, P-51, Tamiya
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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Here is what I accomplished over the past few days. I have been searching for pictures of some Mustangs that I want to eventually build.


    This one here, named "Detroit Miss" is a model that I wanted to recreate from my youth. I built this very same plane many years ago using the Monogram kit when it was a brand new release. This happened to be one of the decal options included in the kit.

    So I scored a set of Lifelike decals for this same plane.

    This picture shows this particular plane has the solid cover on the nose, instead of the one with the holes in it. It's likely either painted in OD Green or possibly Black.



    The P-51D that was assigned to the same unit as my friend Ed Malo is shown here. It is called "Starduster", and is one of the most colorful Mustangs I have seen. These are some of the very few pictures I have been able to locate of it.

    These are the decals for Starduster. It is lettered as "OC E" Ed's P-47 was similarly marked, as "OCP bar" meaning this is the second P-47 aircraft in the unit with the letter "P".

    This is Bob Hoover's "Ol Yeller" Mustang. I saw him fly his routine as a kid on several occasions. He is THE very best pilot I ever saw fly a plane... I mean ever. Watching his Aero Commander routine was incredible too... especially when he was flying it with BOTH engines off... and he would land it and roll back to the original starting position... each and every time without fail.

    Watching him do one of his one wheel landings in a Mustang was inspiring as well. I consider him to be the best of the best. Now he too has flown West. RIP Mr. Hoover.


    Going with the theme of civilian Mustangs, this is a plane I have wanted to build for years... and the reason why I cut the tail off a Tamiya P-51D. Notice this one has a filleted tail like you would normally see on a later model bubble top.

    On the airshow civilian theme, here is another Mustang I have wanted to build for quite some time. This is Miss America, and this plane was flown by "Wild Bill" Crump in the 1960's. I also had a Cox .049 gas powered U control flying model of this very same plane as a kid.

    Speaking of Wild Bill Crump, this was his wartime Pony. He flew "Jackie", and it was a build I started a work journal on here several years ago.

    This is the decal set I have for her...
    Wrapping up these Ponies will be these two. These will be built using the decals that Pedro sent me...


    Here we have Carol's Vergeltungswaffe" German for Carol's Revenge.


    and a no named Mustang with the cartoon character Donald Duck on the nose.

    The wing mods to the Tamiya kit will be coming up next.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Finally here is the work I did with cutting the tail section off one of the Tamiya P-51D's and grafting it onto a P-51B to make "Thunderbird" a reality. I could have used my Accurate Miniatures kits to do this, but I have plans to build one of them up eventually as a Paul Mantz racer, and the other one as Jackie Cochoran's Green Air Race plane. So I decided not to use these AM kits. Plus I had a reason to use the previously mentioned "fillet-less" resin tail section for an early model P-51D-5NA Mustang.


    Thunderbird is going to be built using a 1/48 Tamiya P-51B Razorback. I cut the tail sections off this kit, as well as a Tamiya P-51D, with intentions of swapping them.

    This shows the fuselages before surgery...

    The process is started. I used a Tamiya razor saw to do this.

    I cut them along a panel line, just as the real plane was done. The Mustang fuselage was assembled from smaller sections. Where I cut the model actually represents one of these sections.

    Initially I tried to glue the tail sections back on to the correct fuselages. You can see the Razor back now has a fillet ahead of the fin, while the bubble top does not. However, my seams were off a little on the bubbletop. So I removed the plastic tail section before it was completely dried.

    Here you can see the Ultracast resin tail replacement. It appears to be a drop fit part. So I have an extra fillet less tail section for now... Until I decide to do something with it that is.


    I decided to reinforce the inside of the joint. So I added a small strip of sheet plastic on the inside. It is a small white square.

    Next up is the landing gear bay modifications. On the Tamiya kit, the landing gear wheel wells are blanked off. This is not how the real Mustang is. Up until the release of the Airfix kit, this was a common theme. I have a Hasegawa and a Revell Mustang in the stash, and they are all like this too.





    This shows you how the main gear wheel wells are boxed in.

    This next photo shows the assembled wheel well from the Airfix kit. You can see the differences. It becomes even more visible once in position.

    So I had an idea... Oh No ! Here he goes again... It's OK, it worked well in the end.


    I started out by carefully cutting away the rear wall of the gear bay. This will allow me to scratch build the wing spar, which is actually a part of the real wheel well on a full sized Mustang. The wing in the top of the photo is un touched. The bottom one has been cut on.

    Using pictures I took of the real thing, I started cutting plastic...



    Here you can see the difference by simply cutting away this rear wall. Now it is opened up like it should be. This took me around 5 minutes so far...

    Here the top wing has been modified. You can see where I cut away the plastic very well in this picture.

    Tamiya has a wheel well insert that covers the inner portion of the well. It too needs a little bit of trimming. I have marked where the inner section needs trimmed. This needs cut off, because it is molded at an angle. In order for it to fit in line with the main wing spar, it has to be straight. So off it goes !

    Using some .030 sheet plastic, I added two small strips. These will line up with the main spar when I'm done... This gets done on both sides. 10 minutes into the conversion now... all while taking my time.

    The upper wing has the landing gear bay details molded into it. It was very easy to add details here. I added some thin .005 strips of plastic along the top side. This represents the stringers used inside the gear well. These give the wing structure strength and make it strong enough to walk on the upper surface of the wing.

    I simply joined my strips to the existing.

    Then I scratched some lengthened wing ribs. These were extended back to where the wing spar should be. The wing spar was also fabricated and glued in place.


    This is how it looked after a little more than an hour's worth of work. I made master patterns, so I might be doing this to the rest of my Tamiya Mustangs.

    If you try this at home please be careful not to ruin your parts or cut your fingers. Both can happen.



    This is the end result. Now the Tamiya Mustang looks much better in my opinion. It will look even better once painted and the gear is installed.

    Here you can see how the modified wing is a little different from the box stock version.

    I didn't want to cut away any more than necessary. This affected the strength of the wings. If you are not careful it could possibly affect the dihedral as well. I mocked this one up, and so far it looks good.

    I did not try to modify the leading edge of the wheel wells. They are not accurate either, but this is a huge improvement I think, and not too hard to do. This will be highly visible when the model is on display, especially if the penlight Police get going... 😉

    The front spar is not all that visible, likely next to impossible to see, when the model is on display. It only becomes that way if someone picked up the model... and they better ask first ! or risk bodily harm 😉

    As always, comments are encouraged, and thanks for stopping by.

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    Eric Berg said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Nice work, Louis @lgardner. Educational as well.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Fantastic work for both of you, my friends @holzhamer and @lgardner!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Superb progress, Louis @lgardner
    This is going to be, already is, a very informative combined building thread.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Louis @lgardner
    You make that scratch work of reshaping a delicate area like the wheel well look so simple when in fact it takes some guts and elbow grease to get it right… great work and definitely a great improvement on one of the “weakest” parts of the Tamiya kit.
    Again, great choice of markings! I am particularly anticipating how “Caroline…” decals will behave

    Speaking of decals, thanks for sharing your experience handling those of “Short Fuse Sallee” Tom! @tcinla

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    David Odenwald said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Wow Louis @lgardner, you cut the tails off two Mustangs. At least your tale ended on a happier note.

    The wheel well of that Tamiya Mustang does look a lot better. And far more noticeable than the incorrect curved floor of their B/C Mustang.

    As for building a racing bubbletop Mustang, the Eduard kits might be better option since the bomb racks are separate parts and not already molded to the wings.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    A lot of extra detail added that will look really good when everything comes together, Louis (@lgardner). It is nice to have all of this real-life info in your head, or at least close at hand.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Eric Berg (@eb801)
    Spiros Pendedekas (@fiveten)
    John vd Biggelaar (@johnb)
    Thanks my friends !

    Pedro L. Rocha (@holzhamer)
    I'm seriously considering doing this wheel well modifications to the other Tamiya kits. It's not too hard to do, and now that I have made master patterns for the parts, I should be able to knock them out fairly quickly. Care must be taken when cutting the plastic away... this is likely the hardest part of the change.

    Like you, I am also curious to see how the Eduard decals will work. They look great, so I'm not expecting any problems with them. We will know soon... Again I thank you for sending them to me. I'm really looking forward to your next steps. I plan on starting the Eduard kit as soon as I clear some of these Tamiya and Airfix kits off the bench, as I was hoping to paint them all at the same time.

    I'm posting up these pictures I took just in case you might need them for future reference. I took these about two years ago, and they will show up at the end of this posting.

    David Odenwald (@kahu)
    I'm sorry if I lead you astray with these pictures I posted of the Tamiya lower wings. I have already installed the bomb / drop tank racks on one of the wings in the pictures I posted last. The Tamiya kit comes with the holes flashed over, giving us the option of opening them up to install the racks. This particular wing happens to be from their 1/48 scale Korean War F-51D version. It comes with rockets and a separate "cuff less" prop set along with the shorter spinner. It also includes all of the original regular "D" model parts in the box, so it's actually a better kit to grab if you are looking for spare parts. On this one, I also opened up the holes for the under wing rockets. It was the test subject for the scratch building experiment. The bomb racks in the Tamiya Mustang are keyed to fit either the right or the left side of the wing. They have altered the distance of the spacing between the two mounting pins, just so you can't accidentally install them on the wrong side. It would look funny if you did, because they wouldn't hang straight down like they should when they are properly mounted. You would have to really work hard to mess this up.

    I do have a 1/48 Revell kit that has the bomb racks molded in place. The Hasegawa might be like that too. I'll have to check to make sure of the Hasegawa kit though, as I'm not 100 percent certain about it. I'm using the kit supplied decals from the Revell kit to make "Miss America" using a Tamiya kit. I'm basically using the stars, and smaller names, etc. I plan on painting the Red / White / Blue portions instead of relying on the decals. So I'm hoping there is not a fit problem with the Revell decals being used on the Tamiya kit.

    I was concerned about cutting the tails off two Mustangs... but it was actually quite easy to do. Thankfully the resin replacement tail section for the bubbletop seems to fit well, and the filleted D tail fit nicely onto the earlier B model. The stars must have been in alignment ! For once anyhow... 🙂 Thanks again.

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Thanks buddy ! I had a good idea of what I wanted to do. Thankfully it was not all that hard once I got started with it. Sometimes the hardest part of any journey is the first step...

    I knew what they Mustang wheel well looked like from having the opportunity of being around the full sized version on numerous occasions. I have been very fortunate there. Then I had these pictures to use for reference. I took these several years ago, and they show the various hydraulic and plumbing lines on the real Mustang.






    I'm posting these for others to use if they decide to give this a try. Someday I will write that book we were talking about. 🙂

    Take care buddy, and keep on rocking with your T6 / SNJ.

    I'm off to the hobby room now to cut some more plastic !

    as always, comments are encouraged.

    Thanks for stopping by everyone.

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    Tom Cleaver said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Ummmm... not to rain on the parade @lgardner, since this is a very adventurous project you are on, but the dorsal fin on the P-51C was very different from the P-51D - primarily it wasn't as big. Check the A-M kit and you will see what I mean. fortunately, getting it right involves a sanding stick and a whole 2-3 minutes tops.

    As regards doing Jacki Cochrane's "Beguine," you need to get the Halberd resin fuselage for that airplane - it was highly modified, and while it's entirely possible to do the modifications "old school," doing it with the Halberd set will reduce the purple atmosphere over the workbench.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Awesome pics and really nice info, my friend @lgardner!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Superb reference pictures, Louis @lgardner
    I'm always impressed to see how much plumbing is involved in those aircraft. Must be fantastic to have the opportunity to do maintenance on those warbirds.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    I love your photos, Louis (@lgardner), because they are up-close, in color, and show a lot of detail. Your detailing looks awesome.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Getting some sub assemblies done by this weekend so fuselage halves can be glued.
    One area that I need some advice from the Mustang buffs out there concerns the lower wing signal lights


    As you can see I painted the back wall in Alu and tried to simulate the light bulbs in the 3 proposed colours. Question is am I doing it right or should the entire lens be tinted with the proper colour on each? I appreciate any and all feedback so I can finish the wings without doubts on this.

    The “wheels-up” mode for the Iwo Jima 20th AF model can be made without any specific mods



    just some minor sanding in corners and post glue Mr Surfacer liberal application. Let’s see if it stands the primer test unscathed 😬
    To “fly” this Pony I got this nice resin pilot made by CMK specifically for the Eduard Mustang (although it should fit other makers)
    @airbum
    (Thank you Erik for supplying me this pilot)



    It’s pointless to say that figure painting isn’t my strength but in the end it will look barely acceptable I hope…

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 2 months ago:

    Great progress, Pedro @holzhamer
    Don't know if the ID lights are correct this way either, luckily we have some experts around here on iModeler, but I was wondering how you got those tiny bulbs painted so nicely.
    To me the pilot looks perfectly painted, a nice addition.