Comparison build: 1/48 Monogram He-111 H, and ICM 1/48 He-111 H3, Stab/Stg.3 North Africa 1942/’43

Started by Louis Gardner · 207 · 5 years ago
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    Bernard E. Hackett, Jr. said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    The later Heinkel 111s were noted as paratroop transports. That was the backstory on the old Airfix 111 H-20 something, though it had external bomb racks. Odd, what with paratroop ops pretty rare by then. The last I recall was the one against Titos HQ. Crete blunted the Fallshirmjaeger, leg infantry afterward.
    Granted, the 111 was faster than Tante Ju, and I'd bet them internal bomb racks would have to be pulled to carry troops or supplies.

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    You're correct Bernard... From what I have read, the internal "Bomb Bay" racks were taken out on occasion for various reasons.

    I managed to get some RLM 66 sprayed on the cockpit areas. I'll try to post up some photos tomorrow...

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Here are the pictures I mentioned last. Today I also sprayed some RLM 02 on both planes.

    Here are the two cockpits after they were sprayed with RLM 66. Please keep in mind that there has not been any detail painting done on either of these yet.
    First up is the ICM kit...



    Followed by the Monogram...


    This pretty much takes care of the RLM 66 color. Next up is the RLM 02 color...

    First up the ICM fuselage:


    Followed by the Monogram...


    Since I was spraying the color touching up the wheel wells on the FW-190 builds, I decided to spray out what I had mixed up on the parts that needed painting on both Heinkels.

    First up I sprayed the main gear wells on the ICM kit...


    and the tail wheel unit for the ICM kit.

    The ICM engine supports and main gear pieces.

    The "horse shoe" oil tank and engine nacelle front for the ICM kit...

    The ICM main gear struts...

    Various parts like main gear doors and fuselage top for the ICM He-111


    Then various Monogram parts were sprayed RLM 02...



    That's all for now...
    As usual, comments are encouraged.

    Happy Easter everyone !

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Tonight I removed the liquid window masking from the inside of the fuselage windows on the Monogram kit.

    Next I glued the fuselage halves together.

    I worked my way around the seams to get the best possible fit as I went.


    This is how it looks now. After the glue set up, I went back and started working on the seams to see what I was in store for.

    It looks like it will probably need some filler. If I'm lucky enough I may be able to sand the blemishes out. I want to get the seams taken care of on the fuselage before I start building the wings.

    As usual comments are encouraged.

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Over the last few days, I haven't had very much time to spend in the hobby room. But I did add some putty to the Monogram He-111... and sanded some down in small places.

    I started out by assembling the stabilizers. They fit rather well together. No gaps, no fuss...
    I marked them Right and Left


    After a quick sanding to remove the seam lines, I found some areas that needed some putty. This area is just behind the dorsal gunner position. I am pointing to the place with a wooden stick.

    Here is another spot behind the gondola.

    The actual gondola had a fairly nasty seam, even though I tried my best to eliminate them by careful gluing.

    I wanted to add the standard bomber version bay doors. The kit provides an option of having external mounted stores. Since this plane I'm building for the Kass Pass GB was used as a transport, I'm fairly certain the stock original type doors would have been used.

    So I glued this part in place, and found a few more spots that didn't fit just "right" to me...
    Here you can see how it fit.



    Then it was time to add the putty...

    Top side:


    Bottom side:

    After it dried enough, I started the sanding. I used a wet or dry 500 grit paper to start out with, and opted to wet sand these areas.
    First up, the top side. Here you can see a sink mark visible just behind the green house canopy that is almost in line with the front wing spar. (and how the area behind the dorsal gunner turned out...

    Here's the bottom side after sanding... It still didn't look "right" to me. The side contours were off.

    So out came the tube of Tamiya putty for round two...

    Maybe filling in the original model wasn't too bad of a job after all...It looks like it needs putty in the same places. πŸ™‚

    It gave me an excuse to build up the older Monogram kit and compare it to the new tool 1/48 ICM He-111, so it's all good in the long run. πŸ™‚ The last time I built a He-111 was the old Lindberg version... so I was way past due.

    As usual, comments are encouraged.

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    David A. Thomas said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Louis, you're going to have to give me a primer on wet sanding vs dry...

    Love the work you are doing.

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks David !

    The wet sanding works better for me, as the water actually washes away the materials that normally get stuck in the sand paper. This in turn helps to keep the cutting action of the sand paper up in top notch condition.

    Plus there is an added benefit of not having sanding dust to worry about. The wet or dry paper lasts much longer when you use it wet.

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    David A. Thomas said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Is there a special kind of sandpaper you use? A special kind of putty?

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Yes, I use 3M "wet or dry" sand paper. You can normally find it at quality automotive paint and body supply shops in many grits ranging from 320 (the most coarse) to 3,000 grit which is super doooper ultra fine... I use this on my restoration "full sized" cars after I paint them, just prior to buffing them out. It leaves a mirror finish and man do they shine !

    I used to use the Squadron Green putty, but now I have switched over to the Tamiya putty,


    since it dries much faster and is easier to sand. I get the Tamiya putty at Hobbytown.

    Hope this helps...

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    Stephen W Towle said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Louis, I take for granted that when doing the classic's i.e. a Monogram kit your going to be doing some putty and given the acreage of both kits when compared to doing fighters in 1/72nd it would seem to be a natural. Even though the ICM is the newer kit with the modern technology or having been done with aide of a computer the plastic takes charge. Taking sprue trees from molds and the cooling of the plastic can complicate things or not ... but, in the end real men use putty. Keep up the good work.

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    david leigh-smith said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Stephen, THAT made me laugh ... "Real men use putty" - can we have that on one of the iModeler T-shirts?

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    David A. Thomas said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks, that's great. My son should know all about that 3M stuff--he used to be the local 3M rep for aftermarket car products (abrasives and adhesives, etc.).

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    Robert Paschall said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    So, an old Monogram requires putty. I'm shock I tell you! Shocked! I kid. But looking good Louis, and I agree with David, "Real Men use Putty" should be on an iModeller T-Shirt.

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 6 years, 1 month ago:

    Yes the fun and sense of accomplishment on a Monogram kit. A bit of putty will definitely have some use somewhere. And thats ok. And thats a great idea for a caption on an Imodeler t-shirt. Our softball came up with a nice slogan on the back our shirts. "Play Hard, Pray Harder". The wet sanding process is the best way to sand and contour putty along the seams. Smoothes it out before the final finish. Some may use a primer after sanding before painting the scheme your going to apply. Looking good Louis.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 6 years ago:

    Funny thing I just recently started using Squadron green stuff instead of the white stuff from Tamiya, which has always been my putty of choice. I find the green stuff less prone to shrinking though the sanding isn’t as good as Tamyia white putty.
    Your work is steadfast Louis. looking forward to more