1/350 APD (High Speed Transport)

Started by George R Blair Jr · 156 · 1 month ago · 1/350, APD, DE, Destroyer Escort, High Speed Transport, Trumpeter, USS England
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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Solid progress, my friend @gblair! Great that you have a big amount of generic 1/350 PE, surely you will make good use of it here.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Still some good progress, George @gblair
    That's an impressive amount of PE you gathered.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). I figured I would be able to use the PE someday, and here we are. Some of these sets I got on sale for just a dollar or two.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Today I wanted to detail the lower level of the bridge. I had already sanded off all the detail, some of which was over-scale, and I was ready to try my hand at adding naval PE. In my ignorance, I assumed that adding PE to a ship would be the same process as adding PE to a plane. Boy, was I wrong. There are a series of vertical ladders, three on each side of the structure, that I decided to add first. After a fun-filled hour, I had not succeeded in getting any of the ladders to attach themselves to the structure. I was getting dangerously close to throwing things, so I took a break to find some Youtube videos that might be helpful. The first thing I learned was that you need some special tools to have a fighting chance. The first is a length of wire fitted into the end of an old Exacto knife handle. This becomes your magic applier for superglue. The next thing I learned is that many PE parts for a ship won't attach using the methods I use for planes. This is especially true of the doors. The doors are made up of three connected sections that fold together to make the door. You have the front of the door that you fold and glue to the back of the door, creating a door with both an inside and outside. Cool. This is, in turn, connected to a very fragile open frame. If you want the door to be open, you simply glue the frame to the model and the door will be open. If you want it closed, then you glue the frame to the door and then glue the whole thing to the model. Simple, right? Nope. The frame forms an open area that requires thick superglue to attach. If you use thin superglue, like I did, the door will promptly pop off the model. What the video recommended was to put a drop of thick superglue where you want the door, then add the door. The thick superglue will make contact with the door, which doesn't sit directly on the model, and hold it in place. Then you take your magic wire glue applicator and run a bead of thin superglue around the frame, and the door is stuck. Anyway, you get the idea. It took all afternoon to add the ladders, doors, and handrails to this one small part of the model. Hopefully the rest will go faster.

    I also wanted to figure out the camouflage for this ship. I went to Navsource online and looked at the photos of every APD converted from destroyer escorts (there weren't that many). About half of the ships had post-war photos in light gray paint, so I ignored those. Although these ships wore many of the various camo schemes the Navy used in WW2, it appeared that most of them wore one of two camo schemes: an all-Navy Blue scheme or a green splinter scheme. The green scheme is very complicated, so I took a vote and the Blue scheme won. In this scheme, the vertical parts of the ship are one dark blue color and the horizontal parts are another, darker blue. I hope I can prepaint some of the subassemblies before they are added to the ship.

    Cheers, everyone.

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Wow! An adventure in the PE kingdom, my friend @gblair! Great that you sorted things out and wise decision to go for the simpler paint scheme. Excellent progress - ditto looks!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Beautiful PE work, George @gblair
    Never tried to apply CA glue with a knife blade myself but seems like a good idea.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). Really slow going up to this point. Hopefully faster soon. Actually not a knife blade in the photo, but a piece of wire in an Exacto handle. Works great.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I use this same approach George (@gblair). I made the applicator over a year ago using a piece of guitar string with the outer coil removed. Very stiff and it holds up well when using a flame to clean off the glue.

    The hatches also have that small chevron over the top which I believe is a rain gutter and needs to be slightly angled outwards.

    The other thing to keep in mind is if your decks are a different color from the rest of the ship, then you really need to think about which PE to add before painting and which PE to wait until after painting. And, as I am finding out, the best way to mask certain elements. For example in some cases, its better to mask the deck. IN other cases, its better to mask the item sticking up from the deck. This is why I am painting my deck area in stages, because masking is going to be different depending upon which area of the deck we are talking about.

    I'm going to post a quick response in my build to show what I am planning on initially.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): The wire glue applicator is a great idea. Mine is copper wire, but works the same. In the video I watched, the modeler cleans his tools with acetone, but I would like to avoid using that if I can. You are right about the painting and masking decisions. I am assessing at every step how and when to paint. For the bridge superstructure, I am thinking that it will be easier to paint and detail deck by deck. I think the entire bridge area can be completed before putting it on the hull. Hopefully that would reduce the chance of knocking stuff off. I am heading upstairs to my hobby room to do some work, so hopefully some more progress later. Cheers

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    A small cigarette lighter works for me. It burns the CA glue very quickly and I can do it as often as I like because the wire is able to take the heat.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I suspect using a lighter is probably safer than using acetone. What paints/colors are you using for your Measure 21?

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Since I am completely ignorant of ship paint colors, I am trying to figure this out. I found two images online with color chips for USN colors including the Navy Blue 5-N and Deck Blue 20-B colors from Measure 21. The deck color is much darker than I thought it would be. I guess I am thinking from a pleasure boating perspective where a dark deck would be a surefire way to have burned feet!

    Anyway, I used ChatGPT to get mixing ratios for these two colors using Tamiya paint and then experimented with them. Since I have so many paint sessions, I made sure to mix up extra so I have enough and don't have to worry later about matching colors.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    @gblair, didn't notice the wire at first. This is definitely an approach that I will try as well.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I got everything on the hull sanded and smooth, then hit it with some primer to check that it was smooth. The rest of the time was spent trying to come up with the proper colors for my camo. I want to use Tamiya paint, so I figured I would be doing some mixing. I found some formulas online, but the Navy Blue 5N was way off. I did a lot of trial mixes, but eventually decided that there were two Tamiya colors that basically matched the two colors I needed. I added just a little blue to come up with the Navy Blue. Hopefully some painting tomorrow. Cheers.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Great progress and very nice color research, my friend @gblair!