USS San Francisco Project

Started by Carl Smoot · 218 · 2 months ago
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    George R Blair Jr said 5 months, 1 week ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I haven't thought about annealing since the early days of photoetch. For the most part, PE is much easier to work with today.

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    Carl Smoot said 5 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks John (@johnb) and George(@gblair). I am not sure if the smaller PE will need to be annealed, probably not. Bending the brass doesn't seem to be an issue. But trying to get those larger curved pieces to lie flat without creases showing up in the metal is far easier if the metal is annealed.

    The hangar structure has a lot more brass on it than I've used so far. Some of it will have to be glued into place before attaching the structure to the hull. This particular structure has seams at the deck edge that need to be filled before painting, so I have to get this attached and seams filled before painting. That means that some brass work also has to be done. What I am not sure yet is if I should brush on the metal etch primer I have or rely upon something like Mr Surfacer to handle that. My feeling is that the metal etch primer is the better choice for adhesion. I hesitate to spray that through any airbrush so it will have to be brushed on.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 5 months, 1 week ago:

    Excellent job on annealing the brass and excellent job allover, my friend @clipper! Will definitely be helpful when attaching those big flat parts. Looking forward to your painting results!

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    Carl Smoot said 5 months, 1 week ago:

    I'm continuing the process of pre-building the hull before painting. The hangar structure is a fairly complicated piece of kit, part of which needs to be blended into the hull. The PE covering that structure needs to be seam filled at the edges of that PE. There is some smaller details that should be on before I paint and others that need to go on before I get too far into the construction or they will be difficult to install later or installing them will risk messing up the painted surfaces. At the same time, there is enough handling of the hull going on and still to come that I want to avoid adding items that are easily damaged or broken off.

    So balancing all of this is making for somewhat slow going. On top of that, there is glue drying time, additional sanding of seams and you can see where I am going with this. I also want to test paint the veneer scraps before installing and painting them in case the wood has a different texture that needs to be addressed.

    I have been having a bit of trouble with fit of some of the parts, necessitating the use of a clamp to get it held in place while the glue sets up. It is cool adding the PE pieces because it adds to the look of the model even though not yet painted. It will be interesting to see all of this with paint on it.

    The forward deck superstructure will be installed after paint because it is even more complicated than the hangar super structure and other than at the deck edge (maybe) it won't need any blending into the hull.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 5 months, 1 week ago:

    Excellent, steady progress, my friend @clipper!

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    Carl Smoot said 5 months ago:

    Thanks Spiros (@fiveten).

    I relearned a lesson today about putties which I've known and which for some dumb reason, I overlooked while filling in gaps on the PE of the Hangar structure. That lesson is that Vallejo plastic putties are fine for seams where you can wipe away the excess without much risk of removing it from the seam you are trying to fill, for example wing roots. What it is c**p at is being left to sand. Sanding and Vallejo "Rubber" putties do not mix. Traditional putties (that are sandable) are the way to go in this situation, namely where you might have to blend to parts together.

    The only reason I did this that I can think of is that the Vallejo putty has a nice thin consistency which lends itself well to getting into thin seams. My Tamiya putty is a bit older and somewhat thicker. What I should have done was thinned the Tamiya putty slightly with Lacquer Thinner to get it to be more liquid.

    Note to self, stop and think before doing something stupid that makes your work less fun and more difficult!

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    Alfred van Paaschen said 5 months ago:

    Hi Carl, just caught up with your postings.
    Iā€™m glad to see that I am not the only one who learned from own mistakes. šŸ˜œ
    How come the large PE parts were curved anyway?
    Nice work BTW.

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    Carl Smoot said 5 months ago:

    Hi Alfred (@alfred), the PE parts appear to be somewhat under stress on the sheet before removing them from the sheet. When I cut them loose, they take on a curved shape. There is cling film on both sides of the PE, but I take care to not stress the parts when I remove the film from the sheet. Maybe the process Flyhawk is using involved some sort of heating and this affects the brass during the etching process. I'm not really sure, but annealing them allows me to reliably get the curve out.

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    George R Blair Jr said 5 months ago:

    Looks like we are both mired in the vast expanse of measure, cut, fill, sand and repeat. I spend a lot of time waiting for either glue or filler to dry. My two fillers that I use are Tamiya white filler and some kind of acrylic filler (usually Vallejo). Like you pointed out, if it needs sanding, you need to use Tamiya. Acrylic filler will just shred. I also use Perfect Plastic Putty, which is acrylic but very thick. It works great for filling larger holes and spaces.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 5 months ago:

    Looks like we will never get a putty for all jobs, my friend @clipper!

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    Alfred van Paaschen said 5 months ago:

    Thanks for explaining this phenomenon, Carl.
    @clipper

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    John vd Biggelaar said 5 months ago:

    Some serious progress done, Carl @clipper
    Lots of learnings in this session.

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    Carl Smoot said 5 months ago:

    Some progress today, not a lot, but still another step forward. I wanted to test painting the wood veneer deck and compare it to a piece of the deck painted the same way. I did areas with and without primer to see if there is a difference. The reason for these tests is that I will be patching in my styrene deck pieces scribed on my vinyl cutter and I wanted to make sure that the different materials were going to look the same under paint.

    Interestingly, the plastic deck looked the same with and without primer before painting the deck blue. The wood veneer had a different look to it between the primered and unprimered parts. The primered approach gives the most consistent look.

    Now that I've established that, I am beginning to install the wood veneer and the PE fore deck. I've done as much on the hangar structure as I want to do before painting except to add some small PE detail parts. The small parts will also be added to the wood veneer deck.

    I'm still trying to decide if I want to paint the upper surfaces since I will have to do additional painting on them once all the remaining PE is in place. I need to think about this more.

    Part of my challenge is that I am also working on a ceiling repair in one of our bathrooms and that has been taking some of my time.

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    George R Blair Jr said 5 months ago:

    Wow, Carl (@clipper), lots of different materials leads to lots of experiments. I am glad mine has a metal deck only. Looking forward to your photos.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 5 months ago:

    Great that you have sorted out how to paint the deck, my friend @clipper! Really nice to see you trying all these techniques!