Hi Pedro (@holzhamer). I hope it’s ok if I answer your question on behalf of Louis. I had a look at your blog and I can see your problem.

First, upload all the photos you want to use (I can see that you are fine with this stage).

You will see that each photo is assigned a number, (pic1) for example . When you want a photo to appear then write that number in square brackets below your text.

So this is what your article would look like…I have used regular brackets here because if I used the square ones the program will look for photos that in this case don't exist. Make sure when you post you use the square brackets [ ] not the round ones.

Hi, my name is Pedro and I want to show you some photos of my model Hurricane.

(pic1)

As you can see in the photo below I started with the wings.

(pic2)

Then I had a beer or two.

(pic3)

And this is a photo of me asleep at my bench.

(pic4)

When you press ‘post’ then all the numbers in square brackets will upload to the thread as the corresponding photo.

Hope this makes sense. I would send this in a private message but I don't want other members to send advice if you are already 'fixed'.

Thanks gentlemen for the compliments.

Yesterday I didn't get much done other than the wet sanding using 2,000 grit paper. I am really happy with how it's shaping up. As long as the clear bits fit well on the nose, I think that I am done with the seams.

The next step is to complete the cockpit and install it along with the greenhouse nose.

I think that I am going to venture out of the usual with this build. I have never attempted to spray paint any of my builds using pre shaded panel lines.

Since it's going to be a different single monotone color on the top and bottom sides (RLM 79 and 65), I thought I'd give it a try.

Steve I have been using this sand able primer by Model Master. It's a lacquer paint like you mentioned.

I have been using this stuff for about a year now and it works great at filling in blemishes. I normally spray it on super thick , to the point where it looks horrible and has tons of runs, and let it set up overnight.

The next day I sand it down. It's pretty much like using putty from a tube but you spray it on instead.

As far as the parts being undersized I think that it might be possible to install a spreader bar inside the engine nacelles to get them to fit a little bit tighter into the wings. The parts may just have been slightly warped, just enough to cause the gaps.

I agree with you on how the Monogram engineers did such a great job back in the day. Now we have computers doing the majority of work for us, so we are spoiled.

Thanks David for answering the questions that Pedro asked. You're the man ! I'm telling you that you missed your calling and could have been a stand up comedian. The line stating here's me after a beer caused me to erupt with laughter. Thanks ...

Now we need someone to build up a Motörhead He-111 ... That would really be cool !

I never knew that it was on an album cover either.

Pedro I am going to get busy with finishing up the ICM kit next. I simply wanted to concentrate on getting the Monogram kit done so I can post it in the headlines section for the Kasserine Pass GB which ended earlier this month.

I'll continue to use the Monogram kit as a standard of measure for the ICM model.

Later today I will try to get something done on this one so please stay tuned for updates.

Thanks again everyone,

As usual comments are encouraged.

Lemmy collected German memorabilia from WW2, so we can guess who had the brainstorm for the album cover 😉

David,
it's good to hear from you my friend. Safe travels buddy...

Pedro,
that makes sense now with the memorabilia...

Paul,
This will be my first ever attempt at pre shading. I don't know how it will look once completed, but I'm going to give it a try.

Late last night, I managed to complete the cockpit and install it.

The Monogram kit has the pilot's seat belt harness molded in and they look OK after a little painting.

The instrument panel that was directly in front of the pilot was a little tricky to get in place. It's supported only by a small tab located on the end of another gauge panel that is mounted on the Port side wall of the cockpit. There is still a little touch up work to do with the painting after these bits were glued in place. I'll probably add a little wash to it as well, and possible paint the wiring coming out of the back of the instruments.

Then the rudder stops were installed.

and I turned my attention to the clear canopy parts. Here you can see the instrument panel has been mounted using "Future" as an adhesive. I was worried the plastic glue might fog the clear bits.

Next up was the center overhead console instrument panel. This one is mounted next to the pilot and runs lengthwise along the canopy.

I gave these clear parts a test fit, and the results are not too good for the overhead part. There is a considerable gap where it joins against the fuselage. I started sanding the egdes down just a little to try and close it up some.

This helped, but more work will be needed.

Well I have to go and find out what caused the "check engine light" to come on with the Misses car. It's a little MINI Cooper and she loves the car. Hopefully this will be an easy fix...

As usual,
comments are encouraged.

The clear bits look pretty good Louis, the gaps on either side of the cockpit windows are quite glaring. But not impossible to fix. Though it will take some care and some ingenuity. I am already planning a solution as if it was my project. Which right now I have none at the moment. But will see what you come up with. This is where a WIP is so valuable when you come across an issue such as this.

Louis, facing a similar gap problem here’s what I would do:
1- mask the canopy, it must cover all not just the window panels.
2- fill the gaps with small stretched sprue bits, adequately sized and bent to the shape of the parts. This should would be made in 2 steps: shape the thin sprue bits using liquid glue and while at it glue all bits if the gap needs more than one to be filled.
3- after it dries, shape it to become one solid part and trim to fit the gap
4- carefully insert the shaped plastic part made in the gap and use some white glue or Kristal clear (in this case use a wet cloth to wipe the excess before it dries). It should be ready to paint with seamless shape.

Not sure if this helps you, but hey, it might be useful somehow.
Usually I would prefer to glue some plastic sheet to the plastic before glueing the canopy, but since it looks like you already glue the canopy then the above process would be by next great plan 😉

I'm learning a lot here gentlemen, thanks so much for all of the tutorial content! I am almost looking forward to my next ill-fitting canopy!

And Louis, it needs to be said - you have made those old guns look fantastic!

Today I finished the re scribing of the lost panel lines and added a few more small pieces on the He-111.

Here's a few quick pictures of some of the restored lines: I hope they will look more acceptable once a little paint goes on them...

I added these parts. I'm not certain what they are but they look like some sort of vent ? I used a few photos of actual planes to determine the location, as the kit instructions were a little vague to me... They are indeed offset to one side a little.

I painted the dorsal gunner "B" stand and installed it. The MG is ready to go too, but I'll add it later once the plane has been painted.

I still need to mask off the windows. I'll be using liquid mask on the small ones. The larger nose section may be "fun" with all of the individual window panes.

So I'm headed back out to the hobby room and hope to get some more done tonight. If not, tomorrow's another day.

As usual,
Comments are encouraged.