Bf-110C - Dragon 1/32

Started by Colin Gomez · 35 · 1 year ago · 1/32, Bf-110, Dragon
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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    I will be building the Dragon Bf-110C-7 as a Bf-110 C-1 of ZG-26. The superb Kagero Jagdwaffe Over Africa book includes both decals and spray masks for all markings. The Kagero book/markings will also cover my other Luftwaffe projects for this build, the Bf-109e and Bf-109f. I have some other good sources as well, and I am tempted to do some more complex schemes. Even so, I have always liked the way the simple RLM 79 Sandgelb scheme brings out the clean lines of the 110 as opposed to doing shark's teeth or giant hornets on the nose.

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    Tom Cleaver said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Aha! The kit that proves I didn't "destroy the hobby." Back when the Dragon P-51D came out and I published my famous review that ended with a photo of the stomped model in my trash can, and all the Easily Offended were easily offended and absolutely certain I had finally destroyed the hobby with that (although everyone who tried to build one to prove me wrong ended up proving me right), Dragon then came out with this kit, which you will notice in the instruction sheet lists the Subject Matter Experts they consulted in creating it. Which proves that sometimes a "damned good whacking" can achieve its intended result - and has since, since all the 1/32 kits they have done since have been "best in class."

    You might want to check my review at Modeling Madness so you can avoid the minefields three klicks down the trail. 🙂

    https://modelingmadness.com/review/axis/cleaver/tmc110c7.htm

    Highlights:

    "Overall, this kit is an ill-fitting pain in the posterior which, if you persist with it, will turn into a very good-looking model in the end. The trick with this kit is to test fit everything three times before gluing once. While it appears to be a state-of-the-art kit, it is really a limited-run kit with state-of-the-art molding of parts, though not accurate state-of-the-art molding of too many parts. You get better fit from most MPM kits.

    "The three places where things are particularly bad are the cockpit and the two engine nacelles.

    "Getting the cockpit into the fuselage and successfully closing it up is an event that can turn the atmosphere over the work bench a deep shade of royal purple, complete with rolling thunder and lightning flashes. As to the two engine cowlings, do not waste time building the engines and installing them, unless you are planning to display the model with the cowlings off. As with many kits that have features like open engines or dropped flaps, the model is really designed for the engine cowling to be open.

    "The instructions for this kit are particularly frustrating. They would have you build the entire cockpit, then glue it into the fuselage. DO NOT DO THIS! Instead, glue the cockpit side walls to each fuselage in turn (the locating pins are very helpful), making sure each wall is tightly in position along the upper edge, which will then allow you to position the upper decking correctly later. Once this has been done, attach the cockpit floor to one side of the fuselage. Be very careful to check that the 20mm cannons are in proper position; it is a good idea to cut off the gun barrels - they can’t be seen anyway, and doing so will insure that the lower fuselage center section fits when attached."

    Be sure to read on about the engine nacelles...

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thank you, Tom. The advice you give in your post will be extremely helpful for the build. I also have the Eduard color cockpit detail set, so I will take special care with how everything fits internally to avoid mangling the etch. I generally test fit everything but I also normally follow instructions. I will be sure to take them with a grain of salt this time and follow your suggested sequence.

    I have read your original MM article and now understand what you mean about the engines and nacelles in detail. You can disregard an earlier version of this reply that requested clarification. I will now set to work on problem solving with some dry-fitting work.

    By the way, I had the Dragon P-51D and happily sold it. Not worth building. Your story about your review inspiring the kit makers to improve their products reminds me of the saga of the Trumpeter F-4F Wildcat in 1/32, which the company finally got right after a storm of complaints on the original shape. Online critiques are a great blessing to the modeling community IMO, so thanks for that.

    Oh and BTW, welcome to the group! I hope you enjoy the theme.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Love your entry, my friend @coling!
    It will not be a walk in the park, but a great model wil surely emerge!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Another great project, Colin @coling
    Wondering if Dragon indeed created a much more enjoyable kit.
    Looking forward to your experience.

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    Tom Cleaver said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @coling - the story of the Trumpeter Wildcat is nice... and also entirely frustrating, since they have obviously not learned one thing from that lesson on their first foray into 1/32 kits. I'm at the point of hating the company for "poisoning the well" on every one of their kit choices, since after they produce one of their doorstops, other manufacturers of mainstream injection kits won't do that one. I'm thinking at the moment most particularly of their deHavilland "Hornet" series, all their P-40s, their "Hellcat". Their stuff may be fine for modelers in a closed-off society like China, who are unlikely to ever be able to access outside information on any particular airplane, ever see one, etc. But for those of us who can do all that...

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros and welcome to the Group! I have been working on the kit and find it is not so problematic after all. I haven't test fitted the cockpit yet, though. I will get to that next.

    Thanks, John and welcome to the Group. I think this kit will be fun and very satisfying. See my comments and pics below.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Hey, Tom. I agree with you heartily on many of Trumpeter's major letdowns, especially the 32nd P-51B, which seems to have prevented others from releasing better versions. That's a bit hard for me to understand, since many of us prefer the B to the D, as did many pilots. On the other hand, their Me 262 is excellent and the MiG-3 is very nice. Older releases like the Wellington and Chinook are also good - IMO. They may have different teams working on different projects with some better than others. China has some truly great modelers, like Yufei Mao, very knowledgeable as well as skilled. I think you are right, though, that the Chinese and Asian market dwarf the North American market in sales importance and that can decide what gets made and how. Frankly, I am surprised and pleased at how responsive to the "experts" Chinese kit manufacturers have been thus far.

    BTW, I have been building the Trumpeter F-4F-3, with the pit and landing gear/engine compartment finished. Some fit issues in the cockpit related to the shape change, but I overcame these with careful filing and an Eduard detail set. Not many good aftermarket decal options out there so it is in on hold for the time being.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    After considering Tom's warnings and reading the review of the Dragon kit , I decided to do some test fitting on the engine and cowlings. My technique is always to first trim all parts carefully, especially since Dragon has very chunky extra bits connected to mold release points or sprue attachments.

    These protrusions, found especially on the wing halves of the 110 kit, seem to appear on some quality kits these days. Tamiya has similar raised bits on the P-51D kit. If these are the worst mold artifacts we have to deal with, I have no complaints. It is much easier to cut off tabs like this than to fill in the exposed mold release craters many models have.

    Anyway, I used tiny amounts of liquid glue to begin assembly but make the parts separable if I screwed up. I also didn't want to do real assembly at this test stage. Key parts will be pulled apart safely again to figure out the ideal build sequence -although the engine can be left as finished, now that I know it will fit. As Tom noted, the instructions are very poor with not enough pictures and a vague parts numbering system. I wrote labels on the parts after they were off the trees. How they matched up was very confusing but I concentrated on the port wing and eventually found the right selection. You can see where I corrected a label from stbd to port, after gluing it lightly in place the wrong way at first.

    I kept the wing halves and cowlings connected by bits of tape for a clam shell fit, rather than glue, so I could observe anything obstructing assembly of major parts. It was a pleasant surprise to find that the fit of all parts was excellent, as long as no inversion of major parts from starboard to port occurred. The orientation of parts on extended mounts was also perfect. I found that the engine mount was particularly precise and would be a valuable support for the exhausts when installed. Now, my only hesitation is whether to paint the engine or not and make the cowlings removable. I don't normally care for this as I like the simplicity of a Hasegawa-like build, focusing on the cockpit. I may do one engine only as there seems to be no harm in keeping the feature. As for Tom's caution about the cowlings, maybe I have a later issue kit where Dragon fixed things. I think though that it was a parts mix-up as the instructions are so vague and misleading. I certainly appreciated the heads-up as it helped me to resolve some potential roadblocks well in advance. Thanks again, Tom, Now onto the cockpit and nose gun array.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Great that fit looks good so far, my friend @coling. There's a good amount of nice detailing at the cowlings area, would be a pity to lose some of it because of filling and sanding, due to bad fit.

    Regarding the big raised tabs at some areas mold release points: since they can be found even at late, "good quality" kits, may I suppose that it's the kit designers choice, as the heftier mold release points might be necessary for those areas, in order to not compromise the part overall quality? Well, just a thought...

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Good to hear that the current fitting is not too bad, Colin @coling
    On the pictures it does indeed look nice.
    Those raised tabs to me are easier to deal with than with the craters that could occur on the normal tabs, like you mentioned.
    Grinding off remains is easier than filling up missing plastic.

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    Tom Cleaver said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @coling - you are going about construction of this kit the right way. Keep it up and you'll get to a good result.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks for your comments, Spiros. As I said, this kit will be a joy to build. I won't be using any filler at all that I can see so far or reshaping any parts. The surface detail is very refined inside and out but I may add rivets in limited places to keep the surfacing up to the standard of the 1/48 Eduard kit. Or maybe not. I have Eduard color etch for the IP and rudder pedals as well as for the belts and harnesses. The build should catch up to where I am at with my Stuka pretty quickly.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, John. I am getting better and better at paring and filing down these raised bits and the process is fairly relaxing to do. I hope I can raise the confidence level of other builders on this kit. It's a beauty.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, Tom. I like the process of tinkering with stuff - especially with such good immediate results.