@fiveten - Thanks Spiros. I'm quite happy with the skin tones. All 5 figures are unique.

@gblair - Thanks George. I've found that larger models do need to be printed hollow or they have a very hard time staying connected to the plate. I believe I have the hollowing set to 3 or 5 mm thick walls. I also found that I neede to use a single sheet of printer paper to set the levelling of the build plate. The thicker card that was sent with the printer was too thick and then the prints weren't adhering to the plate as well either. Room temp also matters. Consistent 72 seems to work really nicely. I rarely have failed prints anymore.

Impressive progress on this project, Brian @brithebuilder.

Thanks, Brian (@brithebuilder). I have had many prints pull off the FEP, but this is the first time I have had something pull off the metal build plate. It actually appears that nothing prints, because when I check the resin vat for pieces of broken print, there aren't any. I discovered that there may be a problem with the file that leaves a hole on one area of the cape. Chitubox said the file needed to be repaired and it went through the repair without problems, but I think the hole is still there. You can actually see the hole if you zoom in, even after repair. I used 3D Builder to repair the hole, so I am getting ready to slice and retry. Learn something new every day. Cheers

Minor progress on laying down some base coats. The hair is mostly black with a bit of dark grey so there's a bit of variation, the helmet is neutral grey with a bit of barbarian flesh, the shield is pretty much dark grey - the trim will end up a lighter grey. The boots, I'm not sure if I like. The inner color is leather brown and the outer part is saddle brown. I'm hoping that a couple coats of seraphim sepia and brown wash will get them to unite a bit more. Adding washes to all the grey bits should help too. Right now the base coats are all so flat and boring. It's still progress though.

2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Hi Brian (@brithebuilder): I think the colors will be fine after the wash. When I am painting things on my model railroad, the mistake I always make is I get the initial colors looking exactly like I want, but don't allow for the wash, and they end up too dark. As I get ready to paint mine, I am trying to sponge off what you are doing.

I think, based on the Frazetta painting, the helmet and shield are actually metallics. It's hard to say for sure, the painting is, well, painterly, but it looks like the highlights and everything imply metallics. I've outlined Conan's eyes with black, next step is to add in a light color for the whites, white is too bright actually, then the iris and pupil. I've also added the leather variations for the boots and sandals. Once again, the washes will add so much.

2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Eyes look great, Brian (@brithebuilder). The eyes can be one of the most difficult part of the face, especially making sure they are the same size and shape, and looking in the same direction. Some of the articles I have been reading recommend a very light gray for the white part of the eyes so that they don't come out too white. I think I would go for the metal helmet and gear.