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Very nice engineering, my friend @brithebuilder!
@fiveten - Thanks Spiros! Should work really nicely.
It's a little crazy how well these parts printed. I did have to level my printer plate and reprint a couple parts. It's been an ongoing issue with the new printer. I think I did finally manage to get it all set correctly.
5 attached images. Click to enlarge.
Really nice prints, Brian (@brithebuilder). I have a hard time printing large pieces like this, but it looks like you have it all figured out. Putting the alignment pegs in should really help and will provide more surface area to glue things together.
@gblair - Thanks George, I have realized with larger prints, the model definitely needs to be hollowed, you can see the drain holes, and as I set up supports, I can't skimp on the middle and heavy supports either. I typically do auto supports with light spaced 5 mm apart, then I go in and add medium and heavy myself. Doing a bit of cleanup and the dimples is far better than a failed 10 hour print.
Hi Brian (@brithebuilder): Supports are still a mystery to me. I usually have the slicer add the supports automatically, and then I go through and add supports in areas where they seem skimpy. It usually works, but there are still times when the print is pulled off the supports and stays stuck to the build plate. I use water washable resin, so I don't know if it is fundamentally different than the other resins. In any case, your prints are great and I am looking forward to eventually seeing your painting skills applied to this project.
@gblair - I've never tried any resin other than water washable, but some online stuff says the other type is more reliable. I don't know. I get great results. I've had the exact same issues. I use auto supports, using the light supports. Then I go in and add heavy and medium supports. I suggest adding more than you think you need to guarantee good results. All it ends up being is a few extra dimples to clean up. I tried printing the Death Dealer solid, not hollowed... bad idea. It's so much extra resin and then the weight of it also makes it want to pull off the supports. I hollow with a 3mm wall thickness. There's no flex to the finished pieces at all.
Wow, those printed parts do look great, Brian @brithebuilder Amazing how the necklace turned out without breaking, it looks pretty fragile though.
Thanks, Brian (@brithebuilder). It gets frustrating at time, but it is good to know I am at least on the right path.
@johnb - Thanks John and yes, the necklace is very fragile. It was really scary removing the supports. There's always super glue though.
@gblair - I get it George. I just finally dialed in the Mars 4 Max. I kept having part of the print peel off the plate. I releveled a couple different times. I finally leveled it using a single sheet of printer paper instead of the card they supply. Now, it's perfect. It's all an experiment. Room temperature can have an impact as well. Room should be at least 70 degrees. My basement stays a pretty even 70 so it seems to work well.
Those printed parts look excellent, my friend @brithebuilder!
@fiveten - Thanks Spiros. The whole process still amazes me. I can create something in the computer and have a physical version a very short time later.
You are right about 3D printing being magic, Brian (@brithebuilder). I was thinking about it the other day when I was printing a seat for another model. I needed to change the back slightly, so I just go into Tinkercad adjust it and print another with the change incorporated. A year ago, I would have to toss my scratchbuilt seat and then scratchbuild another. Sometimes I get unexpected results, but it is still magic.
@gblair - It has definitely changed the way a hobbyist can work! And, if you aren't comfortable doing everything yourself, there's a ton of stuff you can buy and then make adjustments/modifications to as well.
