Achieving a NMF using only MM "buffable metalizers" in spray cans....

Started by Craig Abrahamson · 4 ≡ · ↻ 10 years ago · Tips & Techniques
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    Craig Abrahamson said 11 years, 5 months ago:

    This brief tutorial may be of some help when using Model Master "Buffable" Metalizers in the rattle cans.

    First, spray the entire airframe the base color...the shade you want the overall aircraft to reflect. Using a piece of an old, soft T-shirt, lay the piece on your thigh or hold it in your other hand while vigorously rubbing the finish to a sheen. Be sure to remove any rings on your fingers...you'll see why. It's also a good idea to have some of those cotton gloves handy for getting into those tight places..not to mention keeping the residue off your hands.

    Now, brush on a coat of Future to seal the finish. Their own brand of "sealer" has a tendency to dull the finish..believe me, I know. Now you can mask the piece with Tamiya tape or 3m Blue tape without fear of ruining your work.

    As you probably realize, MM offers several shades of metalizers...Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Gunmetal, Titanium and Magnesium. By choosing to buff the finish after painting - or by choosing not to buff the finish - you can achieve a total of 10 varying shades from the five offered. Even more if you opt to mix your own and airbrush the finish.

    ALWAYS apply a coat of Future prior to any masking...throughout the entire process. Once the Future dries, you can freely mask any part of it without pulling up the finish. By varying the shades of paint and buffing or not buffing, there are any number of contrasting panel effects that be accomplished quite easily with these rattle cans.

    I'm sure the other methods (SNJ, Alclad, etc.) are equally as good, some may even yield "better" results to different people, but for ease of application, clean-up and time involved, this is what I've found to be the most satisfactory to me.

    As always, this is only one modeler's opinion and there are any number of folks out there light years ahead of me in talent and experience. I only offer this outline as a suggestion and I hope it has helped a little.

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    Grega X said 11 years, 5 months ago:

    I use Alclad exclusively. Tried almost all the metalizers, for me, nothing comes close to Alclad.

    As for any metallic paints, the key to a flawless metallic finish is a good surface preparation. Super smooth is the only way to go.

    Many modellers are having issues with Alclad, I've never had any problems. Give it a try.
    Always use a primer, Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr. Color leveling thinner is my weapon of choice. Couple of thin layers are more than enough.

    Apray Alclad at low PSI (less than 1 bar) from a close range (4 cm). Don't try to wetcoat the model with it. Build it up in layers.
    High Shine tones of Alclad (Chrome, Polished Aluminium etc), require gloss black base. Otherwise it won't adhere well to surface and it can't be masked. I've found that the best gloss black is Mr. Color GX 02 - Black Gloss. Super shiny, dries in a matter of minutes. Can be polished.

    There is no need to seal the finish, you can mask over Alclad with no problems.
    The range of different tones is huge, but you can also mix a drop MM Metalizer to achieve tonal difference.
    Decals can be laid directly on to Alclad. But just to be sure, i brush a coat of Future where the decal is to be placed. Use decal solution of your chioce. I use Microscale products. Be aware that some decal solutions react with metal finishes. Do the test sample on some spare plastic to aviod unpleasant surprises.

    Final coat. I guess Alclad aqua range is great, but I use Mr.color varnishes. They are tuff and durable and don't yellow over time.

    But as Mr.Craig said, this is only one modeler’s opinion...

    Hope that helps.

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    jeff stewart said 11 years, 2 months ago:

    thanx craig that was very informative. i like the mm buffables myself. but i have had issues with em in the past, especially masking. testors spray glosscote does keep the sheen of the metalizers nice and shiny but tends to peel off the top of the base coat when masking.

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    Josh Patterson said 10 years, 2 months ago:

    I will say I can mask most of the metalizer colors successfully with 3M blue painters tape that's been stuck to something and lifted to get rid of some tack. Aluminum Plate buffing ain't having none of that though, so I spray it last. A question about the Future. I've never used it ever. I do want to know if it would create the effect I'm after which is this. On some photos of natural metal EE Lightnings, there is a glow and depth to the aluminum. I don't know if it's from residue left over from polishing compound or what, but would Future replicate that, and how would I apply it?

    Anyone here have any advice experience using the SNJ products?

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