This brief tutorial may be of some help when using Model Master "Buffable" Metalizers in the rattle cans.
First, spray the entire airframe the base color...the shade you want the overall aircraft to reflect. Using a piece of an old, soft T-shirt, lay the piece on your thigh or hold it in your other hand while vigorously rubbing the finish to a sheen. Be sure to remove any rings on your fingers...you'll see why. It's also a good idea to have some of those cotton gloves handy for getting into those tight places..not to mention keeping the residue off your hands.
Now, brush on a coat of Future to seal the finish. Their own brand of "sealer" has a tendency to dull the finish..believe me, I know. Now you can mask the piece with Tamiya tape or 3m Blue tape without fear of ruining your work.
As you probably realize, MM offers several shades of metalizers...Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Gunmetal, Titanium and Magnesium. By choosing to buff the finish after painting - or by choosing not to buff the finish - you can achieve a total of 10 varying shades from the five offered. Even more if you opt to mix your own and airbrush the finish.
ALWAYS apply a coat of Future prior to any masking...throughout the entire process. Once the Future dries, you can freely mask any part of it without pulling up the finish. By varying the shades of paint and buffing or not buffing, there are any number of contrasting panel effects that be accomplished quite easily with these rattle cans.
I'm sure the other methods (SNJ, Alclad, etc.) are equally as good, some may even yield "better" results to different people, but for ease of application, clean-up and time involved, this is what I've found to be the most satisfactory to me.
As always, this is only one modeler's opinion and there are any number of folks out there light years ahead of me in talent and experience. I only offer this outline as a suggestion and I hope it has helped a little.