Issues with Eduard canopy masks

15 posts · Last reply 5 days, 21 hours ago
Viewing 1 - 15 of 15 posts
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    Felix said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Hi everyone

    I am a very slow builder and peeling off canopy masks is usually one of the last steps for me and thus definitely a highlight. However, i have had two kits in 72nd scale - the Airfix Zero and Warhawk- with both rather delicate canopies.
    Therefore i used eduard canopy masks which went on fine. I then primed with AK Primer and after airbrushing added a matte varnish.
    Unfortunately, when peeling the masks off, parts of the color came off too. Needless to say, i don't really know how to fix the canopies now.
    Also, in order to prevent this from happening again: Do you use a sharp blade perhaps to cut in between before peeling off the masks? I read some advice about using future, we don't have that in good ol' Europe. Also, i usually do not wash the clear parts in soapy water - should i do that too, perhaps? Many thanks in advance for everyone helping me out here.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Hi Felix (@fxrob). I have had similar problems at times, sometimes with Eduard masks, sometimes with others, and sometimes with masking tape that I cut. I think if you leave it on for too long, the paint fully cures and loses its elasticity that it has when it is still curing. The other issue is how much paint and other layers you have sprayed over the masks. The more paint you spray, the harder it is to get a clean separation. For me, there is usually a color layer, then a gloss layer for decals, then a flat layer, then some weathering, and then probably another flat layer. I guess it also depends on whether you are spraying acrylic, lacquers, or enamels. In any case, the only way I know to be sure you will get a clean separation is to lightly score the edge of the mask with an Exacto, then carefully pull the mask off. Good luck.

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    Felix said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Dear George (@gblair), thank you for your response. I too suspect too many layers of color and varnish being one of the reasons for the issue. I am somewhat glad to read i am not the only one having experienced this! In any case i guess there is no way around buying a new canopy as i do not see a way to fix the old one in a satisfying way. Thanks a lot!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    I am not a pre-cut mask type, basically I refrain from masking as much as I can, my friend @fxrob! I think color peel off will happen from time to time, having to do with how well the color adhered to the plastic, or how much the color has adhered to the mask (or tape) itself (the latter due to various reasons that our friend @gblair has extensively covered. I believe you can carefully touch up the canopies with some paint (not too thick) and a very fine brush (10/0), applying two or more layers patiently. If paint spills over the frame, let it dry and VERY CAREFULLY scrape away with a toothpick.

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    Felix said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Kalimera Spiros (@fiveten), always good to hear from you and your expertise! I have been thinking about no longer using masking sets.

    Question, George and Spiros (@fiveten and @gblair): Do you guys rinse clear parts in soapy water just like any other plastic parts at the beginning?

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    George Williams said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Hi Felix @fxrob, like Spiros @fiveten above I dislike masking as well, but sometimes we have no option. Due to availability and convenience I invariably use Tamiya products, both their masking tape and the masking stickers included in some of their kits. I try to follow their instructions which state that you should remove the masking before your paint has fully dried. So, maybe, leaving the Eduard masks on your model for extended periods has something to do with the problems you have experienced.

    Hope this helps
    George

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    You might wash VERY GENTLY the clear parts with some soapy water, my friend @fxrob, using maybe only your fingers so as to avoid micro-scratching them. However truth be told, I have rarely, if ever, witnessed mold release agent at a clear part, usually they are clean. One other reason for avoiding cleaning them is that, no matter how carefully I handle them, I might stress them and this might result in micro cracks (crazing) that also might be visible to the finished model.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Hi, Felix (@fxrob). I agree with Spiros. I usually don't wash the clear parts unless I have found mold release on the rest of the model, in which case I will usually carefully clean the clear parts also, just in case. The other time I will clean the canopy is when I do any sanding on it. The dust can be hard to remove without a bath. I sometimes give the canopy a dip in either Future or Just Like Glass (from Deluxe Materials) if the canopy doesn't look very clear or not very shiny. Coating your clear plastic with either of these can present its own problems, since it is another layer that can peel up with your tape, but they give your canopy a very nice shine. Recently, I have tried painting the Future or Just Like Glass onto the canopy after I have painted the canopy frames and removed the tape. That way I don't worry about pulling them up with the tape. I never worried about breaking a canopy until recently. I was polishing a canopy with a t-shirt and split it down the middle. Now I am much more careful.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    @fxrob

    Hey Felix, not sure if my contribution will be adding anything but since I’ve been using masks, kabuki or Vinyl types, for years now, I don’t think the problem resides in the mask itself but rather either on the paint quality, drying time or thickness of the coat(s).

    As for repaint, just use the same piece of masks again (or some plain tape) press it with a toothpick along the edges of the canopy frames and repaint with the minimum effective paint quantity possible. That should work fine 😉

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    Erik Gjørup said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    There may also lay a major difference in the type of paint used! Acrylics are most likely to have the problem, enamel not so. Enamels will of course present other problems if you do not have a dedicated, well aired room to paint in. I almost always use paintmasks, and usually brush a layer of acrylics on the frameswork after masking, let it dry for a long time and then airbrush the model with enamels. Doing it that way presents almost no problems for me.

    I suppose the wooden toothpick only works on acrylic paint? I find it quite impossible to remove enamels that way.

    Anyway, hope all the splendid info from all the great fellow iModelers helps - happy modelling @fxrob!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Indeed, enamels are in most cases more stubborn to remove with a toothpick, my friend @airbum! Dipping the toothpick's tip in enamel thinner might help removing the excess paint, but might also result in fogging the transparency 🤔🤔🤔

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    Felix said 6 days, 5 hours ago:

    Dear all, @fiveten, @airbum, @holzhamer, @chinesegeorge and @gblair

    Thank you all for your opinon and insight! Again, it was really a bummer and frustrating but i am glad to see it is not uncommon. I decided to go with Pedro's advice and pulled out the old mask out of the trash (eek), put it on again and went over it with a new layer. It has been two days now. When i take them off i will first use a knife. I'll let you all know how it went!

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 days, 3 hours ago:

    Good luck, Felix (@fxrob). Nothing is more frustrating than getting your build to this point and having problems. One problem that I have had several times is when I apply masking tape over a decal, the decal will stick to the tape and pull up when I remove the tape. I know many modelers who do it without problems, but I have had it occur several times. Your photo reminded me of the issue, so hopefully you won't encounter the problem. Cheers.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 6 days, 2 hours ago:

    Hope all goes well, my friend @fxrob!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 5 days, 21 hours ago:

    Fingers crossed, Felix @fxrob

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