I'd certainly welcome advice on this subject as well. I've been experimenting with dissolving sprue in some old liquid cement then using this as a filler. It seems to work OK, but you have to be careful when sanding it down, if you're a bit too enthusiastic it seems to get hot quite easily and starts to melt...

If the seam is a minor one, I put a bead of CA in it with the point of a sewing needle, let it dry overnight, then sand smooth. If the seam is somewhat big, I fill it with either .10 or .20 thousandths plastic rod, such as that made by "Plastruct". I cut the plastic rod into sections then dip each section into a jar of liquid cement such as "Tenax " or "Proweld" for about one minute. I then put the rod into the seam and press it down with the flat edge of a #11 x-acto blade. I let this dry overnight then sand smooth. For really large seams, I fill with several pieces of plastic rod in the same manor as already mentioned, then cover that with "Porc-A-Filler". Porc-A-Filler is a putty used to repair porcelain sinks, tubs, and toilets. It has the consistency of melted ice cream, dries rock hard, and can be sanded/polished smooth. Once again, I let the whole thing dry overnight then sand. I have been using these methods for many years now and they have never failed me. By the way, Porc-A-Filler can be found at home depot or any well stocked hardware store.

As far as fuselage seams go, I rarely have to deal with them at all. I use Testors liquid cement that comes in the black plastic bottle with a syringe type applicator. This stuff is really a "Hot" glue and welds plastic together. I place a bead on both sides of the fuselage halves then press them together with a bit of pressure until I see some plastic ooze from the fuselage join. At that point, I clamp the fuselage and let it sit overnight. If done correctly, there should be a raised bead of plastic where the seam usually is. I just sand this bead smooth. Look mom, no seams.

OK, for cement or bonder I like the Beauty Secrets finger nail polish thinner. Its the same exact stuff thats in Tamiya extra thin but 5 times the amount and for about $3.00 it just cheaper to but two or three and keep refilling the Tamiya bottle.

Moderate to large gaps or seams I can use stretched sprue or plasti-card then shave it down and sand smooth. The smaller ones I use either Squadron white or Tamiya white because they go on with less stress and have a creamy consistency. I have also heard of using auto body spot filler also.

I like Mr Surfacer 500,it cleans up nicely

Seamus, copy on the MEK. I remember stripping deicer boots off Beech King Airs with that stuff when I was on the line years ago. You're right, it's nasty stuff.

Paul, that's good to know about the nail polish thinner. Might have to try to find some of that.

For those of you who use putty type fillers - what do you apply it with? I've been using toothpicks for the smaller seams, but that's adequate at best and not very good for larger seams.

There's some good info here, keep it coming!

Generally, I use Tamiya (gray) putty and 3M Scotch-Blue painters tape to limit the filler area. Wait 24 hrs, peel the tape and sand as needed. You can also leave the 3M tape in place and lightly sand w/o damaging the surrounding area/details. But I really like the finer grain and self-sealing qualities of 3M Acryl Blue glazing putty. It sands well, has medium hardness and does not require a sealing coat before painting. WARNING: Use 3M Acryl Blue sparingly and mask-off the area to be filled as its hot to plastic. And don't use electrical tape with either product.