BoB Airfix Stuka

Started by Rick Wilkes · 98 · 10 years ago
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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:


    After after missing the posting date in the D-Day GB, I have decided that, whatever my grandiose plans are, I'm going start with the easiest one first. I hope so, since I've never built this kit. It will be mostly out of the box, but I do have the True Detail photo-etch set so I will dress up the cockpit with some of that. Any tips etc are more than welcome. More pictures soon.

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    Seamus Boughe said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    The Airfix Ju-87 is a real classic kit that builds up quite nicely with very little need for filler. I believe you are the only person doing a Stuka at this time. Good on you and good luck.

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Thanks for the info Seamus, Hard to believe that in 50 odd years of building models, I have never built a Stuka. I've had a Monogram Ju-87D in my stash for years, the main hold up is I don't want to build one of Rudel's planes. I did find a winter scheme on an old Aeromaster sheet "Best Selling Stukas Pt II" #48-678, but I can't justify spending $40 for the only copy I've found. If anyone has even a partial sheet that has the marking for "S2+LT" of 9/SG77(?), I'd love to hear from you.
    Well on with the show. Got a bit done tonight, including my first attempt at soldering photo-etch parts.


    This is the cockpit floor with the True Details gunner's seat and spent cartridge bin. I added the TD seat back to the kit pilot's seat, and thinned down the edges and have filled a big pin mark in the seat pan. The primer on the brass is Floquil's Red Zinc Chromate.


    Added a trim wheel to the left side.


    A couple of rows of buttons on the right.
    I hope to get this a sprayed RLM02 & RLM66 as appropriate this afternoon, and then get started on the detail painting.

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    Seamus Boughe said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Faith & Begorrah! Forty dollars for a decal sheet? Not on your life boy-o! I cannot blame you for passing that up. Oh the thievery!

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    This is my first experience with Airfix's light blue plastic. Has sort of a soft, soapy feel to it. No problems yet, but I could see how a slice of a knife could turn into a gouge. I think the first pass at any open seams will be with stretched sprue and Testor's liquid cement. We'll see

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Excellent choice for the GB Rick. A Stuka, and not a Hase one at that. I have never seen an Airfix in a WIP, so I will be watching with interest. Wasn't really aware of Airfix having one in 48th scale. Your off to a good start. Keep it coming.

    Chuck

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    Gregor d said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Like it Rick, I've got this kit but an older issue so the decals are knackered. I found that theres not a lot of choice for after market sets, particularly for BoB machines. I look forward to your progress. BTW watch out for that plastic when it comes to paint time, I found in the past the release agents applied to the mouldings can cause problems with paint adhesion on some Airfix kits Chuck I recently did a WIP on the Airfix Seafire if you wanna check it out 🙂

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Thanks Gregor, I'll be sure to check that out before I paint. I have decided to used enamels rather than Acrylics because of the feel of the plastic.

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    Gregor d said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Good plan. I haven't used enamels for years so maybe they won't react the same way the water based paints do - sometimes. I have started to prime my kits prior to building to be on the safe side, and so far it seems to be working. Airfix always advise that you wash the parts prior to building.

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    I would say my paint stock is 2/3 Polly Scale/MM Acryl acrylic paints and 1/3 enamels mostly MM enamels with some White Ensign and Humbrol to "sweeten" the mix.
    The Stuka parts you've seen so far were all scrubed with 91% Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush.
    Don't worry I used the wife's...lol

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    Seamus Boughe said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Well, the first tip I was going to give you was a good scrub with alcohol but I see you are ahead of me. Isopropyl alcohol is great for removing mold release agents. I prefer using the alcohol wipes one finds in a hospital or doctors office. As a registered nurse, I have an endless supply. I also give my builds a good wash with it before applying primer/paint. Don't let the soft plastic put you off either. It is very advantageous in avoiding seams. I use the Testors cement that comes in the black bottle on this kind of plastic. I join the fuselage halves, wait a few seconds, the give the fuselage a little squeeze, and a bit of melted plastic oozes out of the seam line. I let this dry overnight then sand away the melted plastic (now hardened) to a seam free finish.

    Incidentally, if you ever want a really good shade of RLM 02, try Model Master "SAC Bomber Tan". It is a dead on match for the now defunct Aeromaster RLM 02 which, in my opinion, was the best match for the actual RLM 02.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    I discovered the alcohol scrub back in the '70's when Polly S paints first appeared. That stuff would bead up if you looked at it wrong.

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:


    I was able to get some RLM02 & 66 laid down tonight. Probably going to let that dry a couple days before I come back to it. In the meantime I'll work on getting the wings and spats, etc together. Should have another update in a couple of days.

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    Seamus you are correct on the RLM 02, I have 3 bottles left of the Aeromaster War Color acrylic. I found that to be the best match for that color as well. Next to black, it is used on every Luftwaffe project no matter the time frame or color scheme, RLM02 will be used a lot.

    Chuck

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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years, 4 months ago:

    I missed Seamus's suggestion about using SAC Bomber Tan, and used MM RLM02 which I had on hand. Probably wouldn't have switched anyway. The gas to drive out to the hobby shop and back plus the price of the paint would have been more than half the price of the kit..ouch
    Now if we were talking about US Interior Green vs the abomination that MM currentiy produces as FS34151 I'm right there with ya, but that's a whole 'nother dog fight..lol