First 'group build' try - JU-87 B-2 Stuka, Italeri 1/48

Started by Ralph Clements · 51 · 9 years ago
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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Probably so Gregor, although I hope to make it so the hood can be open or closed. I say 'probably so' because
    a) I've put some time into getting the motor done
    b) there's a good chance if I didn't get the motor right, the cowling won't fit!

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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Well it seems some folks are curious about this kit, so here is a little report. I am not done with it, but have gotten pretty familiar with it.

    It is a real nice kit, well made, minimal blobs of gunk to remove, good detail in panel lines etc. The canopy parts are thin and very clear, I believe if I opt to make the canopy open I shouldn't have too much trouble trying to overlap them. The canopy frames are actually a matte, translucent surface, which is a nice touch I think.

    I've had to glue together the sling for the bomb, it was broken. The largest part of it was still on the sprue. I located the broken end of it in the box, it is really thin and fragile. I don't know how it got broken off while still on the sprues but it could have been my fault.

    Again it is a very nice kit and I recommend it but it is not perfect. The instruction illustrations (drawings) are very clear but the sequence of construction could be made clearer and there are a couple of minor omissions, of part numbers and paint color. These are not big deals though.

    One flaw in the parts is the upper wing halves. Their edges where they meet the fuselage are not straight, but have a gentle 's' curve shape. The image here is an exaggerated sketch. Again not a huge problem but

    a) something that has to be fixed
    b) something I'd think the manufacturer should be able to get right. I mean how do they get any other edge straight and why not apply that know-how to these parts?

    Again though this is a very nice kit, despite these minor flaws. At least a 9.5 on a scale of 10!

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Wow, if that's not a short shot, they really need to improve their quality control. Looks like a job for some water soluble epoxy putty like Milliput or Elmer's wood filler.
    I was able to lay a piece of stretched sprue in the wing joints on the Airfix Stuka so they blended with the raised panel lines. Saved me from having to do any sanding, and replacing more lost rivets.

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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    OK, this kit poses a bit of an unexpected moral/financial/practical dilemma. I guess because of where it was made, it did not come with a decal for the uh, let's just call it the 'party insignia' on the tail...I've heard in some countries it's illegal to print that thing and some manufacturers get around it by printing it in two halves. Italeri simply omitted it altogether and even the finishing/decal drawings in the instruction don't show it.

    Well I can respect that as that symbol (I don't even like to type the word) certainly has very negative connotations to some people, in some places, and understandably so.

    But it presented me with a dilemma...

    I want the model to look correct. I know these Stukas and I guess almost every other WW2 Luftwaffe plane carried them on the tail, and I don't think my model will look right without it.

    But I don't want to buy decals just to get some for the tail.

    I also didn't want to spend much time, effort and creative energy to create some of the nasty little marks, besides, I'd have to make two that match, twice as hard as one.

    I pondered on this for several days and finally decided to chance making them myself. I took two layers of masking tape, scaled the logos off an illustration to determine the size needed, and cut them out to get the same size. It's hard to keep the sides parallel and square when your are doing something this small...and masking tape is stretchy...Then I put the base green on the rudder, let it dry and then sprayed on white using the masks I made. After it dried I used a "super extra fine" black pen to fill in the black by hand. There was no way I could hand paint the black in the narrow white bands, or make new smaller masks for the black.

    So here is the result.

    Now if you's like to pay a compliment, that's fine, I appreciate it. But If someone else posted this and I wanted to pay a compliment, I might say "you did a good job, Joe" or "what an accurate replica Bill", but I don't think I would say "that looks good"., To me, it doesn't look good, it looks evil, and is a reminder that as much as some would prefer to deny it or ignore it, evil is real.

    Now I truly do not mean to open the 'political correctness' can of worms here, of all places. I hope my comments here have not exceeded the iModeler bounds of taste or offended anyone.

    I guess the next time I consider a WW2 German plane kit to build I should find out if this decal is included or not before deciding if I want to buy it.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Gregor d said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Ralph the tail markings on Luftwaffe types are all part and parcel of recreating WW2 German aircraft models. If you look round the site lots of contributers have built 190's, 109's etc and they all carry that marking. Many of the European manufacturers do not include it as to adhere to laws that still exist to forbid reproducing the "symbol". Given how prominent it is on aircraft like the Ju87 I agree it would look not quite finished without it. Good effort on reproducing a difficult marking on your model BTW.

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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Yes, Gregor, I also browsed iModeler at length to see what others do about this before deciding. I don't recall seeing any German WW2 models here that didn't have it. I didn't want to be the first, especially for this "group build" thing.

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Ralph the way I look at is this. I make models of machines and I put the markings on them that are historically correct. That being said I won't use the markings of certain individuals or certain units, but the fact that other people do doesn't bother me in the least.

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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Thanks - I figured this might generate some thought provoking replies!

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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Well I can report it is impossible to make this model so the engine compartment can be open or closed, at least for me. The kit is designed so it's all or nothing. Either you have the motor displayed and the the 3 cowl pieces completely separate (left/bottom, right/bottom and top) or you have the motor completely covered. I believe these cowl parts must not be how a real Stuka engine access worked. If they were then the exhaust pipes would have to be removed before opening the engine access panels. My attempts to have it both ways - I wanted to have at least one of the panels removable and replaceable - only made it difficult and frustrating to get the whole front nose section, including engine and 3 panels, on at all. Arrrgggghhhh...I will remind myself when I see the bad seam I'm stuck with, that a Stuka is not exactly a Stealth bomber in terms aeodynamics and streamlining...

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Ralph, speaking of non-aerodynamic, how did Italeri handle the panel lines and rivets? My Stuka feels like it's covered in 80 grit sandpaper 🙂

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    Gregor d said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Ralph, this sounds familiar. Eduard kits are notorious for poor fit over internal details. I guess you either model it with the engine totally exposed without the cowlings or you leave the engine out completely and assemble it totally covered up. I'm always in two minds about this as you've paid for all that engine detail, and to leave it in the box seems a waste of money. You could of course build the engine and display it seperately along side the airframe?...

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    Ralph Clements said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Gregor by the time I was done in my futile effort to get it to do what its not designed to do, covering the engine up was the only real option left. Well, the best option in my opinion. See I have this quirk, I like the planes I built to look complete, as if they could fly, not partially disassembled. Call me weird about that - at least I took pictures of the engine! But like you say, I "paid for all that engine detail" so I wanted to have my cake and eat it too, close it up and be able to take off one panel to see the motor, and put the panel back. No can do with this kit.

    If anyone tries this kit I recommend:

    1. make real sure you get those frame rails on the sides of the engine pushed in as close to it as you can, I got the left one a tiny bit farther from the motor than the right one. Since these connect the motor to the firewall and the cowl, that was the start of my problems.
    2. when you put the cowls together, don't glue them to the motor at all, the instructions don't tell you that of course, but there needs to be some play to them so they can match up to the fuselage.

    Rick, the exterior finish is great, very detailed, smo-o-o-oth plastic, recessed panel lines, mostly recessed rivets but some are raised, I suspect they are "anatomically correct"

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Ralph, I can understand your frustration. That's a fairly expensive kit and you wouldn't expect being able to see the engine to be "all or nothing".

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    George Williams said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    Ralph, first, your work on this model looks great, I'm sure the finished model will reflect all your hard work. Second, I followed your moral dilemma with great interest and think you've made the right decision. I get a similar situation with some racing bikes and cars where the originals had major sponsorship from tobacco companies. The kit manufacturers are not allowed to include the tobacco companies' markings because the kits may be purchased by youngsters, so, sometimes I resort to after market suppliers. I have fairly strong feelings about smoking, and would certainly never encourage it, but... I like to make accurate models.

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    Gregor d said 9 years, 7 months ago:

    I'm with you Ralph on making the aircraft look whole, ready to go! I look forward to seeing you're next progress pics, as you've done excellent work on it.