Tamiya 1/48 D.520 WIP - With a question

Started by Editor · 91 · 9 years ago
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    Rick Wilkes said 10 years ago:

    Thanks Martin, I'll definitely try this out on some paint mules and see how I do.

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    Craig Abrahamson said 10 years ago:

    Totally agree...besides, I wouldn't know if the shape of something was 'wrong' anyhow...nor would anyone else who walked into my model room. Wait a minute - there AREN'T any visitors to my model room come to think of it (...the cats don't seem to notice any shape issues, either). Looks good from here, Martin.

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    Editor said 9 years, 9 months ago:

    I'm still soldiering with my Battle of France Dewoitine. The current statge of finishing is rather riddled with problems, but let's begin with a little retrospective on what happened since my last update.


    This is the status from my last update, painting underway.


    After application of the third camo color, all masks were removed, revealing this result. Looking good.


    In the meantime, I went about improving the main undercarriage. The Tamiya parts proved to be too long for the aircraft to sit properly, and featured rather clunky one-piece covers. I shortened the legs and scratchbuilt new 3-part covers from a thin aluminum sheet with internal structure added from plasticard.


    Dry-testing the undercarriage under the watchful eye of the Tamiya pilot

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    Simon Whitney said 9 years, 9 months ago:

    She is looking sweet Martin, the nose job shows the difference.

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 9 months ago:

    Simon's got it exactly right, sweet was the first discription that came to me as well. Your paint job ain't half bad either.. 😉

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    Editor said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    It is a kind of weird phenomenon that at some point of the construction, my models start to fight me :/ The recent weeks were full of frustration and ardly any real progress!


    Here's the first hint of trouble with the decals. Berna Decals' fin stripes wouldn't fit. I was able to rectify the problem by cutting each decal in the lower and upper half and applying them separately. With liberal amounts of setting solution, I was able to gat that nice painted-on look. I can see now that I was lucky to have painted the rudder white in the first place.


    The Berna decals looked great on paper. Unfortunately, upon application of the roundels it became obvious that the white printed backdrop of these decals was of smaller diameter than the red, resulting in an ugly transluscent red outline. I tried to rectify this by applying another roundel on top of the first one, but this didn't bring much improvement.


    My chosen markings were that of Lt Valentin of GC II/7, an a/c that featured a white letter "V" on the fuselage behind the cockpit ( http://www.histavia21.net/HISTAV2/D.520Valentin.JPG ). I planned to obtain the "V" by trimming and reversing the "A" decal from the Berna sheet, adding some serifs afterwards from the remaining white bits on the sheet. That looked like a simple simple operation, but ended up in a disaster - the decals were again transluscent, and the application of serifs on top of them resulted in ugly uneven paint coverage. Trying to save the results, I attempted mask and paints the serifs, whereupon the decals broke apart. Now the damage was too great so I had no choice but to sand down and repaint the entire area!


    I tried to improve the roundels by masking them off and spraying the red color with Tamiya Red whcih proved to be a good match. This improved the look of the markings to an acceptable level.


    After the failure with Valentin's markings, I looked for alternatives among my remaining decals, still hoping to end up with a machine that fought during the 1940 campaign. The original Tamiya sheet, by Vitachrome, was rather poor in many respects but offered the markings of S/Lt Madon of GC I/3 from his North African period (with white arrow on the fuselage), buit the same machine served in the Battle of France ( http://s1.e-monsite.com/2009/04/01/10/89675495d520-dekker-10-jpg.jpg ), so this became my new choice.

    I picked the fuselage emblem and the blue "2" on the fin from the Vitachrome sheet. Again, the "2"s proved very brittle indeeed, one of the breaking apart on application but luckily I managed to save it!


    The snake emblem decal was very simplified - a simple red-brown silhouette on white background with the same red-brown outline. The original snake was probably black with yellow dots and the emplem outlined in yellow. I decided that this could be achieved by hand-painting some detail on the snake plus a new outline made of yellow Xtradecal stripes. However, at this stage I'm pleased with my approximation, and most of all - happy to get out of this decal hell!

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    George Williams said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    It looks like you've been saved from decal hell, Martin. It's interesting how the camouflage colours seems to change in the photographs, maybe it's just the lighting.

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    Bernd Müller said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Great work on this not too perfect decals. Beside all the fighting your D.520 looks great.
    Modelling is not always a step forward, sometimes a step back or aside.

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    Editor said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Hi George, the different colours is just the white balance in the camera/lightning. The "Blue" photo was taken in the daylight, all other are evening shots under my desk lamp.

    Bernd, this is so right, they say that the true learning is in the mistakes, but I wish I was skilled enough not to indice so much trouble at the end of my projects.

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    Bernd Müller said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    I know what you mean, you will run in trouble with things,where you don t expect trouble.
    Just having trouble with decals for a Spit Mk.VIII, they looked good on the sheet but proved very brittle.
    These "nasty" bulges on and under the Spitfire wing didn t really help too 🙁

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Glad you are hanging in there Martin. I used decals from 3 different manufacturers on my D. 520, and they all gave me fits.

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    Editor said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Getting so close to get her finished now, I'm still stumbling upon one or another D.520 mystery. Have a look at the attached photo deck and help me guess!

    11 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Hi Martin, I think that what you are seeing is grime etc, collected along the spar cap, with the camera, lighting angles etc giving it greater definition. I believe a very dark wash on the spar panel lines you will get a similar visual effect. If you want to add rivets, I recommend HGW Models (www.hgwmodels.cz) sheet 481012 which provides tightly spaced double rows of rivets. These are much more petite than the Archer rivets I used on my BoB Stuka.
    Hope this helps. Rick

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    Bernd Müller said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Hi Martin, i concur with Rick, a dark wash to pronounce the lines on your model will have a good effect and it will look right.

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    Rick Wilkes said 9 years, 8 months ago:

    Martin I cropped the wing off one of the images in my D.520 build and played around with it some to approximate a war time image. As you can see without changing the actual weathering on the model I was able, using the limited image adjustment capability on my iPad and my nonexistent photo manipulation skills to really get the spar lines to jump out. I think with your painting skills you'll be able to get the look you want without any reconstructive surgery.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.