1/35 Jupiter 2 from Lost in Space

Started by David Kopielski · 27 · 1 year ago
  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 9 months ago:

    This is wonderful stuff, my friend @davids_models!

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 9 months ago:

    This looks really stunning, David @davids_models

  • Profile Photo
    Anthony Ricco said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Wow this is looking really really cool @davids_models, great work, all the details are exceptional.

  • Profile Photo
    David Kopielski said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    As I finish the fifth week of the Jupiter 2 project I have completed all the interior sections. There are a couple of things to note. The lighted tubes near the freezing tubes are clear rods. However there are a couple of air bubbles inside each one. The next is the range decal that goes on the astro-control is very thick and does not fit very well when being placed into the clear dome. The decal ended up getting damaged so I made my own using thin film decal sheet. This laid down better and did not get damaged when inserting the assembly into the dome.

    For the interior bulkheads I covered them with some thin white sheet styrene to mimic the views in the TV show. I then assembled the freezing tubes. The clear base was left off and the photo etch grates were installed. I also painted the inside of the top with chrome paint. This reflects a little light back down and gives some very good shadow lines and highlights on the figures.

    Starting with the lower section I sprayed flat black over the landing bays to aid in preventing and internal lights from shining thru the plastic. Since I replaced the clear fusion engine piece with thin styrene I decided to use the clear piece to seal the fusion lights from shining elsewhere. I painted the inside with chrome paint to reflect and extra light back down and the outside flat black to block and light towards the interior. Once the fusion core light board was mounted the cover was then installed. I now need to sort out the bundle of wires and LED’s to start mounting the LED’s that go into the floor.

    You can see more photos and details from the start in my build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-35-jupiter-2-lost-in-space/

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Exceptional progress and ditto details, my friend @davids_models!

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Truly impressive work done, David @davids_models
    Quite a lot of wiring to keep track of as well.

  • Profile Photo
    David Kopielski said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    This is the 5.5 week of the Jupiter 2. After ten days of an unscheduled break for a minor medical issue I am finally able to get back to the bench! The “.5” (half week) notation is because I have only had a couple of days of work on it. I started with installing the deck LED’s. I am using the acrylic gel medium to hold them in place. For the freezing tubes the instructions tell you to glue the wires down with the LED bent upwards. I did not like how they just hang there so I used some thin styrene sheets and mounted the LED’s to them then attached to the bottom side of the deck. With the LED’s mounted I then checked out the sound card. The sound out of the speaker is a little muffled and since the saucer will be sealed I decided to make a speaker grill. Instead of drilling holes like I have seen on other builds I decided to cut slits on the cargo doors. The doors have ribs already so I just sawed them open. Once cleaned and repainted they will be very hard to see but allow the sound to project out.

    Next I purchased a small dual relay board. These relays will be controlled by the remote control board to turn on the light kit and turn on the sound card from the remote. I mounted the speaker by using two styrene square rods then mounted the relay board in front of it. I then removed the batter board from the sound card and ran the power to a mono jack. The battery pack was then mounted to a mono plug. This will allow the battery pack top remain out of the ship and allow batteries to be changed in the future. I plan on making a battery box to look like a storage container that may have been used aboard the ship. Next I need to sort out which LED’s go to which walls and then mount the LED boards to the bottom. I can then start installing the previously completed interior pieces.

    You can see more photos and details from the start in my build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-35-jupiter-2-lost-in-space/

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    This is progressing impressively, David @davids_models
    Looks like you made the correct choice with the LEDs as well as with the speaker grill.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Superb indeed, my friend @davids_models!

  • Profile Photo
    David Kopielski said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    This past week the Jupiter 2 was fully assembled and completed! With all the electronics mounted I assembled the interior walls and details. This went together very well and quicker than I estimated. Installing the ceiling was a little tricky as the instructions recommend not gluing the support walls until the ceiling is in place. This was actually a nice note in the instructions. It did take some adjustments to get the walls lined up and into the ceiling slots. Once the ceiling was set I then glued all the supporting wall attachment points. I then installed all the ceiling and wall LED’s and then tucked the wires down.

    I cleaned up the hull, primed it, and painted the silver exterior. For the battery case I used some sheet styrene and made a case. I added some photo etch handles and a hoist ring on the top. The box was painted aluminum and then I made decals calling it the “Fusion Core Emergency Recharge Unit” with some radiation and two man lift warning signs. I completed the hull by adding the windshield and the radar bubble on top. The client wants the ship sealed so I began the process of gluing the upper hull to the lower hull. Due to size, a slight warp in both halves, and a tight fit due to all the wiring this was a very tedious process. I had to slowly glue the halves at about 2” at a time. Due to the contour of the hull I could not use clamps so I held the halves together, glued the seam, I then held the section until the glue cured. A little final clean up on the seams and the Jupiter 2 was finished. I hooked up the power for the lights and the battery box for the sound board and performed a final check of the lights and sound.

    Check out the video of the final operation of the electronic features in the build log link below!

    This project was an interesting change from doing military aircraft. Moebius did a decent job with the kit instructions. They even have little helpful notes to aid in assembly. The only thing I would change on the instructions would be to organize the painting instructions better. Some of the minor assemblies painting notes are scattered within the assembly instructions. Some of the parts required some clean up due to mold marks. The kit decals had two issues. The green radar screens were smaller than the area where they go and the astro-contol station gauge ring decal was thick and cracked easily. Since the assembly fits inside a clear dome the thicker decal was hard to get in correctly. I ended up making my own which made it a lot easier to assemble. The Moebius light kit was ok. I changed the landing bays lighting and made mounts for some of the LED’s as the instructions wants to mount them by their wires and “floating” the LED into position. For the accessories, The Tenacontrols remote control board works very well and is easy to wire up with the enclosed instructions. The Starling sound board works well. It would be nice if they could add a power supply input so that you can use a different source beside the batteries. Using a different power source changes the input impedance which changes the timing of the sound causing the cycle to reset way too early. The resin figures of the Robison family were excellent. Clean up was easy and the figure details were great. I did not use the extra decals. The colors used on the decals seemed off and the resolution of the print was too low for what I prefer. Many of the panels looked much better painting them. Overall it was an interesting build and not as complicated as I first thought. I hope you all have enjoyed this project. Thank you for following along. Happy modeling!

    You can see all photos and details from start to finish in my build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-35-jupiter-2-lost-in-space/

    14 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    A wonderful result out of am equally wonderful build thread, my friend @davids_models!

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Looks great at the headlines, David @davids_models
    Thanks for guiding us through the installment of all the electronics.