1/35 Garford-Putilov Armoured Car - Copperstate Models

Started by George R Blair Jr · 153 · 1 week ago · 1/35, armoured car, Copperstate Models, Garford-Putilov Armoured Car, russian, ww1
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    Louis Gardner said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    This CSM kit looks like it's a very nice one. In particular I am impressed by the instruction booklet and the details on the parts. The booklet appears to be very well written and detailed, and the parts are nicely done as well. You will be cutting plastic and painting parts very soon !

    Have you decided on which armored car you will be building ?

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    Hi Louis (@lgardner): The instruction book is very cool and looks as old as the real armoured car. I want to do a diorama of a disabled Russian armored car that was captured by the Germans. I like the scheme with the skull and crossbones, so that may be the one. The interior is done in white, so I might be able to break up the green exterior a bit by having one of the doors open. I will know more after I do some research on this beast. It had a 76mm cannon on the back end, and it was often used as mobile artillery, as long as they could find good roads. Apparently it didn't do very well in mud or broken ground.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    I like where you are heading with this... Now it makes sense why you have several German figures in the mix.
    As far as the interior of the doors being white: Our tank interiors were white too. But ours didn't have the interior portion of the hatches painted in the white color. Instead our hatches were painted in a dark green on the inside. This was done to reduce the visibility of the tank when the hatches were open.

    However, I'm not certain if they did that way back then. They very well could have been painted in white. There was a learning curve somewhere along the way...

    I'll bet this thing was a beast to drive off road. Skinny tires and mud and / or shell holes are not a good mix... Remember the learning curve comment ? 😉 I believe it had manual steering too. I don't think power steering was invented yet. I can bet you it had a manual shift transmission too. I often say that a manual shift transmission is a "Millennial anti theft device".

    Wow... a 76 MM cannon on this bad boy... Very impressive, especially for the era.

    We do indeed have a common taste for our models. I was leaning towards one with a skull on it too... They just look so cool like that.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 2 weeks ago:

    Hi Louis (@lgardner): The painting manual for this model has a cutaway showing the interior in color. These guys have thought of everything. Not only did the armoured car have a big cannon and a couple of machine guns for self-support, it also had a driving station at both ends. Cool, right?

    Are you going to be OK with this storm heading your way? It looked like it was heading more toward the western part of Florida, but the storm tracks are all a guess anyway. Keep your head down and your feet dry, buddy.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    I finally got going on this build, and I started by reviewing the instructions. I plan to create a diorama around this armoured car, so I wanted to find out how much of an interior there was (it looks extensive and complete) and if the doors can be posed open (they can).

    The first step of the instructions have you take the truck frame and remove a rather thick casting line. It is at this point I noticed two things: some really nice detail and some really large sprue connection points. There were also some really large sprue lugs to be dealt with. It took a while to get the frame cleaned up, after which I identified the parts to be added to the frame and cleaned up their sprue attachment points and the mold separation lines. There is a molded strap that holds the muffler onto the frame that is the point where it is attached to the sprue. The problem is that it is hard to tell where the strap ends and the sprue begins. I freed the muffler and its strap by cutting portions of the sprue that I was sure contained none of the strap. I can figure that out later.

    There isn't much color information in the instructions on specific detail like the muffler and so on, so I decided to stop here and see if I can figure out some colors and what I can paint prior to adding to the frame.

    Cheers everyone.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Great steps, my friend @gblair! Surely many parts require serious cleanup.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    A very nice start, George @gblair
    That fixation of the muffler to the sprue is not the easiest one to remove indeed. Your subtle approach is a good way in getting it done nicely.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). This looks like it will be a really nice kit, but it does require some care to build.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    It is possible that that part of the attachment may not be that critical George (@gblair). Studying where this gets mounted might yield some clues about how much can be cut away. Short run kits definitely present challenges at times. Hey, if it gets too tiresome, you could go back to the APD for a bit! 🙂

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): You are assuming that I have looked ahead in the instructions to see how the muffler mates to the frame. Planning ahead is for sissies. But seriously, I do need to look ahead to see what the part should look like after I clean it up and how it attaches. This kit does have some characteristics of a short run kit, but it is extremely well done.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Hey George ! You are moving right along on your armored car ... You made me laugh with your comment about planning ahead... and the small details on the frame are impressive. I sent you a text on how we did with the hurricane Debby. Overall we did very well and it made landfall about 110 miles away from us. It was just some rain and wind, but nothing like the typical stronger hurricanes we occasionally get. I called it a training mission for the real ones. I hope we don't have anymore coming through our area this year.

    Lately I have been using a photo etched saw made by Tamiya. It fits into the handle of a standard Xacto knife. These seem to work very well with trimming and cutting parts of the trees. It's quickly becoming my "Go To" tool for doing work like that which was required on the muffler.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Hi Louis (@lgardner): Glad to hear the hurricane didn't do a lot of damage. I use the Tamiya saw blades (I think these are the ones that fold and then slip into an Exacto handle, but I mainly use them for re-doing panel lines. They fold and bend at the drop of a hat, so I try not to use them too much.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Yes sir, we got lucky this time. Those are the same blades that I was talking about. I have had great success using them to cut small / delicate parts from the trees.

    But the downside is exactly what you mentioned. They will bend at the drop of a hat.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    Hi Louis (@lgardner): In central Texas, we always hope to get side-swiped by a summer tropical storm. That is about the only chance of rain we have during the entire summer. I have tried to rescue some bent blades and straighten them out, but I ended up with some very creative panel lines. Basically, once they are bent it is useless to try and salvage them. They are inexpensive to buy, but are often out of stock. I guess the word is out on how useful they are.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 month, 1 week ago:

    The Gold Medal Basketball Game really ate into my modeling time, but I did get a little done. I assembled the majority of the lower frame. I left several parts off till later because they need to meet up with parts that are applied later. I sprayed the inside of the frame with black primer that will serve as a base for the later armor green. I spent some time trying to figure out the colors for the details, as well as the interior and the exterior. There is no color info in the instructions, so you have to figure out the colors as you apply the parts. The only color into that you get with the kit is a really nice color cutaway in a separate pamphlet, but there isn't much detail info. I did a little searching online for the exterior color, and came up with 15 or 20 mixes for my preferred Tamiya paint. That's it for today. Cheers.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.