1/12 Fiat Mefistofele

Started by Clarence Novak · 13 · 1 year ago · 1/12 Fiat Mefistofele
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    Clarence Novak said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    By request, I moved this from general discussion so there is some redundancy initially.

    Having fun with this Italeri Fiat kit. I hope to finish it as well as many others have? Not sure I’ll be happy with just painting the body the usual ‘smooth’ finish: Which imho will not accurately represent the beautiful ‘rough’ natural finish of the real Fiat’s panels? I know or will assume that the optimal way is to make a wooden buck and form brass sheets over it. In lieu of that,
    I am wondering if I can ‘abuse’ the surface of the plastic contours to represent the ‘imperfections’ (nuances?) of the panels properly? Or at least be an improvement? The two hood parts would also need to be reduced in thickness, and a seam cut where the current raised lines are? I do plan either way to drill out and add real domed head rivets. All the subtle aesthetic elements like adjoining panels not being perfect….don’t know if I can make that happen? The issue with making the two part hood done is reproducing the louvers on each side? A real piano hinge would not be too difficult. I guess I’m not channeling my Gerald Wingrove very confidently? The brass signature radiator shell on the actual car features very rounded contours, nothing like the kit part? Not trying to upgrade the entire model, just assessing what can be done to improve it within 'reason'? As if reason has anything to do with it:))) Comments and suggestions appreciated.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Clarence Novak said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Thanks so much to you all for your comments and support! I hope I can get close to your expectations:?)

    In terms of weathering uniformly, my fight will be to not make the beautiful engine too pretty,

    but I can't guarantee more than a bit of crankcase grime:) I will take this thread to the Automotive Group.

    I'm not the best at stopping to take photos but I'll try. I have managed to rope wrap (and stain) the leaf springs and replace as many of the self tapping (?) screws with actual brass hardware from Model Motorcars. This also adds some strength to the assemblies. I use brass pinning on all my builds especially aircraft.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    A wonderful entry, my friend @jagmkx! An awesome kit that I would love to build, but I still chicken to buy die to its price and complexity.
    Great progress so far!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Great start, Clarence @jagmkx
    The wrapped ropes do look excellent, as well as your work on the brass pinning.

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    Clarence Novak said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Well off into the great abyss where one attempts to create the opposite of shiny and smooth?
    Ordered a few sized of round barrel bits to test. Received the smallest metal piano hinge I could find?
    Despite my photography, hinge widths are matched but (my micrometer is already packed for moving...)
    To me it's the diameter of the hinges that I think will stick out of scale? Imho under size is better than oversize? Researching distressing and creating irregularities in models, found a you tube clip that used the close and low heat of an incense cone? Something that generates heat, may a soldering iron? in the clip it seemed to be slow but very controllable? Of course you should probably not use a heat method close to the edge of a panel or details?

    Heat for thought?

    Clarence

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    George Williams said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Thanks for transferring this project to the automotive group, Clarence @ jagmkx. Do you, or have you, own a Jaguar Mk X? I had one for a short while in the early 1970s, pale metallic blue, enough space inside to hold a party, wish I still had it now.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Regarding the hinges representation, if your results look right to your eye, they probably are, my friend @jagmkx!
    This heat source looks a great idea, as it seems to be very controllable, something of prime importance when heating plastic where things easilly can get out of control and the modeler finds himself with a completely deformed part.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Thanks for sharing that technique, Clarence @jagmkx
    Looks very controllable indeed with some nice results. It does require attention when applying heat to plastic, creating a dent is more easily achieved than removing one.

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    Clarence Novak said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Here's some first test reports on the 'abused patina panels' I'm trying. First, I tried the lighter, candle and finally incense methods. The incense I can see works but for me, it's not initially as controllable as I prefer. Not a learning curve I'm currently interested in. So...here's some assorted rotary bits... this will work fine. I'll next test priming and then if required, some sanding and filling and all the way to color-gloss paint? The effects are subtly different between bits but more affected by technique I suggest? The testing will tell how much or little material I need to remove towards the goal of the impression of uneven metal panels particularly on iveted seams and panel perimeters...as I observe in photos of the original vehicle. I hope to observe each panel's irregularities and attempt to replicate 'imperfections' in relatively the same areas. and then I got hit in the face...;)

    Fun

    FYI : used lowest cordless Dremel speed

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    George Williams said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Some interesting techniques being tried there, Clarence.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Nice to see all these techniques tried, my friend @jagmkx!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Very interesting way to get those results, Clarence @jagmkx
    Love to see the end results of it.

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    Robert Aspinall said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    What you are doing is really interesting Clarence. If I could make a suggestion on how to distress the panels have you tried scraping the surface with a curved blade like a SM No15? The effect you are after is very subtle and smooth and using bits will give you hard edges. Have a look at some of the oil canning effects U boat modellers have achieved.