”Rommel’s Taxi”

Started by Paul Barber · 151 · 6 years ago
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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Simple yet enough detail in the cockpit to get the idea the basic premise of the Storch. Tamiya gives you just the right amount of parts to complete a well detailed model. I usually don't get into the basic recon type aircraft such as this and the similar Bird Dog. But this may change my mind. Will watch this

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    Michel Verschuere said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Very nice Paul! Watching this thread with interest!

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    David A. Thomas said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Once more unto the breech, my friend...Godspeed to your progress!

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    This is an amazing build... The details are very intricate and they appear to be very fragile.

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    Paul Barber said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Thanks for the comments and encouragement, gentlemen. Louis yes, I have in past builds been heavy handed and snapped the odd thin part. In this case I am being hyper-cautious when snipping and sanding!

    Some supplies arrived from BNA Modelworld near Melbourne today (approx 1800km away - The Gold Coast doesn't have a corner hobbyist store)! Some etch from Eduard (only planning to use seatbelts, IP and some of the signage plaques); some 'Mr Paint' lacquer RLM colours; and some Hataka thinners - I have had no luck with thinning their paints, so I have gone for bespoke thinners.

    I had already bought some Eduard paint masks for the canopy - and in this particular 'tale of the tape' they won out over the Tamiya masks supplied in the box. This may be personal preference, but being pre-cut and slightly more flexible they they feel more user-friendly.

    Interestingly neither Tamiya nor Eduard provide internal masks. I might recycle the Tamiya masks to use them internally, however it seems that the kit is designed to show the external paint through the clear plastic - which may mean painting internal colouring under the camo scheme so that the correct colour is seen internally. I will decide how to approach this once the external masking is done.

    In keeping with the general 'unique' feel of the model, some of the windows (I don't think this is a canopy per se) are pre-attached to the fuselage halves. Again this feels delicate and has been handled lightly to avoid my customary clumsiness resulting in damage!

    The Eduard masks are going on now, and advice or comments will be gratefully accepted! As you can see I have left on the plastic sprue segment that supports part of the window/door frame - it will be removed when it is time to paint.

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    Paul Barber said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    A final mini-post for today. Just for some scale - the cutting mat shows these parts to be 15cm, approx. Photos are always a great way to pick up minor errors so I will now adjust the masks while having the snaps on a screen. Some are fixed windows, some sliding on the Storch - I will go back to my research shots to get them close to accurate! And I'm now going to ruminate over the internal masking...

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    David A. Thomas said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Yow. That is some fine, fine work, Paul.

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    Paul Barber said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Had another look at 'Kermie Cam' to check the real Storch interior - to help make a call on internal masking.

    A screen shot borrowed from this video shows how the Storch works. Individual panes sit in deep recesses - and the wider frame can be seen clearly behind the panes of glass. Only a thin part of the frame actually sits between/over those glass parts. This perhaps explains Tamiya's decision to avoid interior masking. Having had a look at larger scale Storchs, one could use styrene to scratch build the 'recesses' or 'tubing', however I am not sure that I want to stick styrene rods to the inside of a clear plastic part, and perhaps the Tamiya solution looks good as designed. Another alternative might be a marker pen...

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    This is really good ! The Kermit Cam is showing the close up details of the same plane that I posted pictures of for you a little while ago. I didn't get any closer photos so I'm glad you were able to find these. The other Storch is literally hanging on a wall so it's not very accessible or I would get you some more close up photos.

    Your plane is really looking very good. I didn't realize all of the little details that Tamiya had packed into the kit. Mine is still sealed in the shrink wrap.

    I would consider painting the color that you want to be visible on the inside of the clear plastic (I'm guessing here , RLM 66 dark gray), and then simply spray it again with the top colors. This will give you the illusion that the inside of the window frame was painted on separately.

    Looking good my friend !

    The attention to detail is amazing.

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    Greg Kittinger said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    This is looking great! I do have a materials reference question for you - when you said, "I have had no luck with thinning their paints," were you referring to the MRP paints, or to Hataka paints?

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    Bernard E. Hackett, Jr. said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    As to doped aircraft, only the outside of the fabric is doped- the famous "clear doped linen" If you doped both sides, it would dry it, and it would rip. So the interior would look whitish, with perhaps some pale bits of the outside color showing through. That's my theory. Others may know more.

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    Paul Barber said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Louis - yes that's the option I will be going for. Given that there was so much glass I was sure masking inside would be necessary, but from these views I think that option is the one to take.

    Greg, my issues have been with Hataka paints. As I came back to the hobby I used Tamiya paints thinned in Tamiya lacquer thinners - great all the time. I also love Alclad for metallic surfaces and Vallejo Air - no need to thin either in general, although vallejo thinners work well if very thin paint is needed. Mr Paint - fairly recent has been excellent for me - again goes great out of the gun - thin but very adhesive. The reason I didn't stick only to Tamiya was that they sometimes need mixing to make a colour that could be bought elsewhere as a single bottle. Over time I had picked up a few of the Hataka paint sets. I hate waste and for the pink Spitfire I had needed to use Mr paint instead of Hataka because of thinning issues, Once I had read around a little, it seems diluting Hataka colours with their own brand of thinners is apparently more effective than using water. I will give it a try!

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    Paul Barber said 6 years, 8 months ago:

    Bernard - yes I agree, the fabric parts of the plane would almost certainly take on that faded interior look - thanks so much for posting.

    While looking for more info I found the restoration group in Kassel (central Germany - very close to where Fi 156s were manufactured). Here is the link for their photo gallery.

    https://www.fieseler-storch-kassel.de/en/photogalery/

    The interior of the door is very clearly shown and the glass seems to to be fixed with welded steel (?) tubes.

    Their restoration project looks great - here is a war era (Italian) version to compare,

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    Paul Barber said 6 years, 7 months ago:

    Here's an minor update: 3 weeks after the last as ever - the Commonwealth games came to town at the point of the school holidays - a perfect storm for a modelling shut down - I did manage to finish my 'nose art group' contribution - small mercies I guess.

    This time I have jumped to the wing mini-assembly - just to feel the warm glow of a little progress. The pictures tell the story. The fit is unbelievably good here - I think Tamiya were 'belt and braces' on their 100th release.

    First a shot of the instructions that show you how to use alternative parts for either flaps up or flaps down - I selected 'down' as usual.

    Then a series of shots showing how the wings built up. Mostly just Tamiya thin cement after some dry fitting.

    I will complete the leading edge after painting.

    The only thing I did to ensure a seamless fit was as follows:

    Attach points 1 and 2 - then 3 as it is very thin and potentially misses the attachment point by a quarter of a mm- and then 4 - which was left unattached (as seen here) until last. Probably overkill, but this way the thin part was fitted most easily without putting it under any strain.

    And ended up at this point:

    Hopefully some more bench time later today. This is 'punctuated evolution' as usual...

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    Louis Gardner said 6 years, 7 months ago:

    Thanks for posting the "how to" on the lowered flaps. That's exactly how I will build mine up when the time comes. I will definitely be using this as a go to article during construction... Thanks my friend ! and I'm glad to see you managed to get in some building time.

    Your plane is shaping up nicely ! 🙂 The details on this kit are simply amazing...

    I'll be looking forward to the next installment.