CB-25J Mitchell

Started by George R Blair Jr · 230 · 1 year ago · 1/48, B-25J Mitchell, CB-25J, MATS, Monogram
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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    I wanted to get the interior ready for assembly today. I started out by making a very thin mix of AK Real Colors Cockpit Green along with AK Thinner. I sprayed mainly between frames so that the black undercoat would create a shadow. The black base darkened the green considerably. I have found a bunch of pictures showing the interior painted in chromate green, and other pictures showing a darker green. I wanted to end up with a darker chromate green, which is what happened. After everything was dry, I sprayed a light layer of the cockpit green over everything. I wanted to leave some shadows around the frames, which worked out nicely. I hand painted the instrument boxes with Vallejo Black-Gray, and used some off-white for some of the wiring. I have reached an age where wiring is a challenge, so hopefully it won't be really visible.

    I was planning to use an Eduard Space set for the interior. Each set comes with 3D decals for the instruments, and a set of PE for the seatbelts. The set is for the HK B-25J, but they fit well in the Revell model. I had to add all of the instrument boxes on the side walls for the decals, but the instrument panel fit perfectly. I had never used these before, so I actually read the instructions. I scoffed a little when the instructions directed you leave the decal in the water for only a couple of seconds. Surely it would take more than two seconds to free the decals from the paper. I held the first decal in the water for three seconds and had it float off the paper. Oops! It turns out that 2 seconds works for the larger decals, and anything longer than 1 second on the small decals will float them off the paper. The instructions says you might consider gluing the decals down. I used Ultra Glue from Ammo by Mig. This stuff is a really thick acrylic glue that dries perfectly clear. I use it for PE, so I figured it would work for the decals. Decals went on perfectly. There are a couple of panels I saw in cockpit photos that were not included in the decals, so I will need to hit the spares for something to use on the boxes.

    I plan to let everything dry and then start putting sub-assemblies in place. I also need to find some room for a lot of weight to keep the nose down. Everyone have a great day. I'm off for some quality granddaughter time. Cheers.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Was out of the house practically all day and on my return found two major updates to your superb build, my friend @gblair.
    Really great interior, those 3D decals are amazing and you have done an exquisite job there!
    Have a great day as well (which i am sure it will be, spent with your granddaughter)!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten). It seems to be moving right along. I am sure you had a great family day out, and Evie (Evelyn) time for me is always fun. Cheers.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Really great result on the interior, George @gblair
    The paintwork turned out perfectly which is valid as well for the decals.
    Pretty sure you will have a great time with your granddaughter, enjoy those wonderful moments.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). I hope to get the interior wrapped up today and ready to close the fuselage. This plane had a couple of places where there was green-tinted plexiglass, so I need to figure out how I am doing that.

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    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Just joining this build and catching up on all you are doing, George. First class work updating and enhancing the old Revell kit. I have three of these in my stash (2 glass nose B-25J and one with the solid cannon nose). I will build an Air Apache strafer one day. I like what you are doing with varied tones of interior green and shadows to enhance the sidewall detail, plus the addition of the 3D decals. I have never seen a CB-25J built - yours will be an original, I think. I am impressed by the research you have done to make the model as accurate as possible.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Thanks, Colin (@coling). I also have several of these B-25Js in my stash, as well as a couple of the 1/72 Hasegawa versions. I have a soft spot for cargo planes thanks to being an airlift pilot in the Air Force. I have been waiting for my skills to catch up to this conversion. I wanted to be sure I could handle the conversion, and I am not very good at natural metal finishes. So this model will be a real experiment. We will see if everything comes together. Thanks for stopping by.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    I was hoping to put all the sub-assemblies together and close the fuselage today, but several issues have popped up that are slowing things down. The first issue that came up had to do with glue. The plastic in the kit is very hard. I don't know if the plastic started out that way or if it has gotten harder as it aged, but the big problem is that the glues I am using are having a problem getting the parts to stick together. For bigger models like this, I usually use one of the glues like Testors, or Contacta, or some Preiser that I really like. Normally, I would apply the glue to one part, smack it onto whatever it connects to, give it a few seconds, and it is stuck. So, I glued one part to the other and set it aside to dry. A few minutes later I picked up the glued parts and they simply fell apart. I discovered that I can get the parts to stick together by using the thicker glue first, let it sit for a minute, then use some Tamiya Thin Liquid Glue on it. I have to apply the Tamiya without touching the glued parts or I risk them coming apart in my hands. I have tried several thick glues and several liquid glues with the same results. Superglue works well, but I don't want to build the whole model with superglue. Once the joint dries that has been assembled using the two glues, it seems to hold very well. I have been letting the parts dry for at least an hour after gluing, which really slows down the building. I am also scraping away paint from gluing surfaces to be sure that I get a good plastic-to-plastic connection for gluing. I always do this anyway, but now I am being extra careful.

    I also started looking ahead making sure I wasn't forgetting anything. I have a sticky note on my work table reminding me to add weight in the nose before I close the fuselage, but I want to get the internal structure done first. I also started closing the bomb bay which will be an interesting exercise. The bomb bay doors on this kit is designed to be displayed open, which means I will need to remove the molded-on structure used to hold the doors open. Like most bomber kits, the bomb bay doors don't fit very well in the closed position. I glued the kit doors in the closed position and let them dry, then I plan to reinforce the seam from the interior. It is already obvious that the doors won't quite meet in the middle, so I will need to fix that, as well as the gaps around the bomb bay created by the poorly-fitting doors.

    I plan to do some thinking about the best way to make all of this magic happen, so hopefully more problem-solving tomorrow. Cheers everyone.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Looks like the hard plastic is not easily melted by the glue diluants, my friend @gblair. Good thing is that it is responding, even though at a slower pace. I faced the same situation upon building the same kit, having more or less followed your approach. The interior looks superb and, yes, black primer adds a lot to the final looks. Looking forward to your progress, including the solution for the bomb bay doors.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    The cockpit turned out amazing, George @gblair
    It might be that the solvents left the plastic over time, or it could be harder plastic from the start, either way it is not great to work with. If the plastic still responds to the glue, the best way forward is to give it more time to settle.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). That is the plan: glue, clamp, and give lots of time to get solid. I am now working on sealing the bomb bay along with its ill-fitting doors, and then constructing a plug for the hole for the upper turret. I am trying to design one that I can 3D print, but we will have to see if my very basic design skills will be able to design anything useful. Cheers.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Looking forward to your 3D attempt, my friend @gblair!

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    David Butler said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    This is really cool! Love what you are doing here. Looking forward to following along. Keep up the great work

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Looking forward to the 3D printed part, George @gblair

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 8 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb).

    Thanks, David (@dbutlr). Welcome aboard.