I've started repairing the panel lines that I sanded off the fuselage. I'm using .010"/0.3mm rod from Plastruct rather than stretched sprue to keep a consistent look to the repairs.

I run a length of rod from one side to the other using what's left of the panel line as a guide, with tape to hold it tight. Once in place I wick liquid cement along the rod, let it set for a minute or two, then trim off the excess. If there is one close, I'll run the rod to joint in the panel line, but usually I just blend it into the rest of the panel line with a few swipes of sand paper.

This is the belly partially completed. Still need to do the area between the wings.

I've replaced the lost panel lines, well at least all I'm going to replace anyway. 🙂
I'll knock them down with sandpaper before I replace the rivets.
I'm trying a new brand of rivet decals that look like they have the pattern I need.
More about them in the next update.

Looking great Rick,
Keep on going mate, and the Whiskey can be sipped later.
LOL

Rick, if your rivets are the ones made by Archer, then you have choose well. I have used them on both armor and aircraft models and the work like a charm.

UMM-USA is my absolute favorite go to for tools, paint masks, and other detail items. Great prices and fast service. Goes to shoe that great minds think alike.

As you know I've been working on replacing panel lines, etc getting ready to test out my new UMM decal rivets. I decided to test them on the Stuka, figuring that if I get it right I'm points ahead. So following the directions to the letter, I sprayed on Mr. Surfacer 1000 as a base. So far so good, except;

My replacement panel lines where horrid. The width seemed okay but they were mountainous. I hate it when I outsmart myself.

Anyway, bordered the offending panel lines with tape and sanded down to it, cleaned up and touched up the Mr. Surfacer.

Now back to the UMM rivets. For "free form" use like I'm doing, maybe a bit to finicky. More time consuming than the Archer rivets, because you really do need to leave them alone for 2-3 hours before taking the backing off. So here's what they look like.

They are very fine, and if I was using them on a model without any rivet detail, I think the effect could be stunning. However, again, I'm trying to get a fair match to kit rivets and the UMM rivets are so much "in scale" that they just won't do. You can see in the lower right corner the Archer rivets I've already started laying down.

This is a broader view of the replacement rivets and the reduced panel lines.

Once again "accuracy" dies on the spear of expediency. 🙂

All the panel line and rivet replacement, that I'm going to do anyway, is complete. Here's what it looks like in its raw state. Never let it be said I had a light touch with sandpaper or could draw a straight line. 🙂

I did end up using some of the UMM rivets to replace the very fine rivets on the chin intake.
the panel lines are stretched sprue.

Now I gots to be doing some more of that assembling and painting stuff.
R

Gregor, you're killing me man...lol. Truthfully I have been trying to decide that myself. So since I can't make the decision, I'll leave it up to you all. Gregor counts as one vote for an open canopy. How say you all? 🙂