Car Door Incident - Hasegawa 1/48 Hawker Typhoon

Started by Editor · 52 · 7 months ago
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    Editor said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Taking a short respite from the riveting process, I've tried to figure out how to deal with the fit of the wings. As this kit is moulded, there's a very prominent gap at each of the wing roots.

    Two obvious options would be (a) filling the gap with filler or superglue or (b) doing the same with a plastic card insert. I'd rather avoid either of these options, because they both involve sanding and rescribing in an awkward place. After smoothing out that chin intake I feel I've got enough of sanding!

    Some other builders of this kit have advised slightly forcing the wings upwards so that the wing roots meet with the fuselage. Given the width of the gaps, I was worried that this would markedly alter the dihedral of the plane, so I decided against it. As a matter of fact, I have opted to reinforce the wings by adding a plastic "spar" to prevent this from happening.

    I decided that this fit problem is a bit odd given the high overall quality of the kit. What if Hasegawa designed the kit so that it would fit tightly together in the first place, but had failed to account for the fact that the fuselage halves would become too flimsy due to the use of the various inserts (there's no ridge to the fuselage halves where the wings go). I guess that the gaps could more or less be the results of mould distortion.

    The best advice towards a remedy came from an old article by Spencer Pollard - installing additional spacers in the lower fuselage to push the wing roots apart to their correct positions. I have checked with the drawings and yes, this produces a correct fuselage cross-section as well as eliminates the wing root gaps.


    No gaps = No filling!

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    Gary Brantley said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Very nice work, Martin @editor! Great solution for the wing root gap; the project is really looking good! 🍻

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    Editor said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Thanks, Gary! @garybrantley

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Excellent solution indeed, my friend @editor! Looking super!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Superb solution this way, Martin @editor
    Will look much better than filling it entirely with putty.

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    Editor said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Thanks @fiveten and @johnb. I know people who are good at using putties, but I try to avoid solvent-based putties whenever I can.

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    Editor said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    The project is progressing with riveting of the wings. Frankly, I'm really longing to see the entire airframe assembled and ready for paint. This project feels tedious a this stage. So hopefully there will be some gluing after this!


    Of course it should be said that much of the anxiety is self-inflicted. One does not have to manually add rivets. But honestly, I think the result looks too good to pass.


    Comparison between riveted and out-of-the-box wing parts.

    Next, I should also be writing about the choice of camouflage scheme...

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    John vd Biggelaar said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    You should definitely continue the riveting, Martin @editor
    It looks really amazing this way and I'm also eager to see this airframe assembled.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Excellent progress, my friend @editor! The looks' improvement of the riveted from the unriveted surfaces is tremendous!

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    Tom Cleaver said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    You didn't need to worry about the wings changing dihedral. You bring them up to get the mating surfaces together and let it set up solidly then remove the rubber bands, and the wing returns to its original molded dihedral. What it does is pull the fuselage out the tiny bit necessary. I do this all the time with kits.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @editor

    Been awhile since I last visit this WIP Martin, but now it’s even more interesting to read since I purchased a second hand box of this same kit in mint condition…one of those unexpected opportunity that fortune once in awhile gives us.

    I like the way you solved the gaps, both cockpit inserts and the wing to fuselage area. The radiator section on the other hand seems problematic and I also don’t see an easier way than yours to fix it.

    Great job on the riveting btw… I might ask you the favour of sharing a few pics of those plans when I get around to build mine 😉

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    Editor said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @johnb @fiveten thank you. Yes I agree that it adds another layer of interest to the model, and as someone said "once you start adding rivets to your models, you'll find it addictive" 🙂

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    Editor said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @tcinla, Good point. I realize this might have worked, but I just didn't have the confidence to do it. :/

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    Editor said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @holzhamer, glad to hear this, actually the kit I'm building has also been a second-hand purchase. I think that early Typhoons were really interesting machines. The airplane itself turned out as something of a monster, and I find the learning experience of this project rewarding. Unless you pick one of the kit's decals, you might want to watch for the variations of the early Typhoons:

    1. Canopy - the series production Typhoon 1A started as a fastback, which was then modified to "car door". The car door canopy eventually got a blister at the top panel covering a rear view mirror, then reverted to flat panel again.
    2. Undercarriage - early models had five-spoke main wheels and a "balloon" tailwheel. The five-spokes come in two variations, "early" and "late". Then the u/c was altered to four-spoke main wheels and anti-shimmy (twin-track) tailwheel
    3. Armament - it started with 12-gun Mk 1A, which was rapidly switched to 1B armed with the familiar four-cannon arrangement. The cannon barrels were initially laid bare a-la Hurricane Mk IIc, but later received the aerodynamic sleeves.
    4. Fishplates - obviously, the early Typhoons didn't have the reinforcing plates around the tail joint, and it is relatively easy to find photos of such machines from the earliest period of Typhoon's career.
    5. Exhaust stacks - uncovered, then covered with anti-glare shrouds
    6. Propeller - some of the early Typhoons received four-blade propellers later during their lifetime. The principal point of doing this was reducing the persistent vibrations in the cockpit, which had plagued the type since the beginning.
    7. Horizontal tail - started with a small one which may be appropriate for most specimen equipped with three-blade propeller, then introduced an enlarged tail plane.
    8. Bomb racks - these were added once it was acknowledged that the Typhoon cannot fulfill its promise as a "pure" fighter.

    As for the riveting drawings, happy to help. Japanese modeler Mr "WIngs of Pegasus" Jumpei Temma has published a set of excellent Typhoon-Tempest-Sea Fury drawings in conjunction with his Hawker Sea Fury project, to be found here:

    http://soyuyo.main.jp/seafury/seafury-3.html
    http://soyuyo.main.jp/seafury/seafury-2.html
    http://soyuyo.main.jp/seafury/seafury-1.html

    The pages are in Japanese, but it is relatively easy to download high-resolution drawings that you need.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 7 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @editor - Thank you Martin, excellent articles on the Hawker family influence for their ultimate piston, the Sea Fury. The overlapping side profiles of Typhoon/Tempest/Sea Fury is unique to me