Luftwaffe Paints

Started by capt. R · 44 · 3 years ago
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    capt. R said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    Hello! This is first post in Imperial German Air Service / Luftwaffe Group Build. I hope I will make some german planes in the future. I have question what brand of paints for Luftwaffe do you reccomend? I usually used Mr Color/Mr Hobby. Also try with Vallejo Metal Color.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    Hi Lis, I do not usually do acrylics, but the shades in the Valejo range seems OK to me. I have never used Mr Color/Mr Hobby. I bought a lot of Valejo, but never could get them to work with my airbrushes - my fault entirely I am sure.
    My 109's are almost exclusively painted with Xtracolor, but after the exit it is not easy to import to EU from UK, so I may have to rethink when my stock runs out. Hope that helped a bit?

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    capt. R said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    @airbum what Kind of Vallejo paint did you use? I used once valejo model color gunmetal on airbrush, and it drive me crazy. But metal color was very very good to paint airbrush. I read that vallejo model air is ok to airbrush. I want to make Josef Priller's plane. I have the impression that I have a lot in common with him 😉

    I found this:
    https://www.fine-art.com.pl/farby-vallejo-zestaw-71166.html

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    Hello Lis, @lis.
    Although I'm not an expert in airbrushing, I have used Vallejo Model Air since I started two years ago.
    No experience on other brands, but till now I'm pretty happy with the Vallejo paints.
    I thin them with a 2:1 ratio.

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    capt. R said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    @johnb what kind of thinner do you use?

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    The thinner I use is also the same brand, Vallejo Airbrush Thinner

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    John Healy said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    I’m an Xtracolor fan too.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    @lis

    Sorry, just noticed your question now, so let me give you a few other personal opinions regarding Luftwaffe paints that complete the information already expressed my others here.

    I use both acrylics and Lacquers.

    Been years since I used Vallejo (hard to paint in airbrush until I recently found a miraculous thinner ) and I find their Luft range a bit off the charts.

    Gunze has the best acrylics imo, paint beautifully, and I use plain rubbing alcohol for dilution, plus most of their shades look spot on.

    AK, especially their Real Colours range (lacquers) are also fabulous in the airbrush though some shades are a bit suspicious (as are their plain acrylic range)

    Top marks for me goes to MRP paint, again lacquers. They also paint beautifully, no thinning for most works necessary, and their shades are great. Only their RLM 74 is a tad too much green to my personal taste.

    You can also mix Tamiya acrylic to get several RLM shades, the info is out there in the web, and Isopropyl alcohol does wonders for airbrushing them.

    Hope this helps

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    capt. R said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    thank you for yor sugestions 🙂
    @holzhamer what thinnner do you use for vallejo paints?

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    @lis

    This one here

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    Christopher C Tew said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    Lis, the Vallejo Model Air line works well with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner #71161 or 71261 and a small (small!) amount of V's Flow Improver #71262 or 71562. Two drops of Flow Improver is usually enough for 20 to 40 drops of paint and more than three will start to noticeably slow drying time. Ammo and Lifecolor acrylic thinners should also work about the same.

    The Model Color line is specifically for brush painting. Vallejo and other sources have charts that match Model Color paints to WWII camouflage colors. You can spray Model Color and all of V's other lines, but unless the one you're using says it is for spraying, you will have to thin it a lot to make it sprayable and you will absolutely have to use the Flow Improver.

    About the camouflage colors themselves:

    The charts for many nation's camouflage colors have changed over the years as researchers discover new information, and each chart differs in some-to-many respects from the others. Firms that make impressive claims for their charts don't always make paints that match their own charts. Look at lots of charts, read their originators' arguments, and pick one that convinces you. Then throw the other ones into a dark corner. No matter which one you choose, someone will discover a noticeable error within a few years.

    About the practical aspects of choosing hobby paints:

    You only have so much space and money for paint. The more eras and nationalities you build models from, the more you need to use a method that suits your personality and expectations to limit the paints you buy.

    One method is to go through every paint line you can find and select this or that color from this or that line to get the best possible matches to your favorite color chart. Another method is to find one line you have the most success with and stick to that line, adjusting a color here or there if it differs uncomfortably from your preferred color chart. If you go that path, buy a bunch of empty bottles for mixing and storing and keep a log of your mixes. It's probably better not to mix more than 17ml at a time and use the common style of dropper bottles for ease of use and paint longevity.

    A third method, without limit, if you like, is to decide to use Vallejo for Messerschmitt, AK for Focke-Wulf, Humbrol for Heinkel, Hataka for Dornier, &c to spice things up a bit - ignore deviations from your chart. This method takes up a lot of space. How much space do you have, and how much do you intend to spend on racks (racks are expensive!) for all those paint bottles?

    I work inside our home with very limited extraction ventilation, so I avoid lacquers and enamels due to clan-up, odor, and health considerations.

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    Andrew H said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    Yes Lis, to summarize a key point from Christopher's post;
    Vallejo Model Air is for airbrushing, using their thinner at a 10-50% ratio, and a drop of flow improver for every 10-15 drops.. for best results.
    Model Color is excellent for brushing, slightly diluted with water. It self levels well and has excellent pigmentation, in my experience. In order to make it work in an airbrush... well, consult Google. It can be done, but it takes a lot of thinning down.

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    capt. R said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    @holzhamer thank you.

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    capt. R said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    @pb_legend flow improver is from vallejo?

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 6 months ago:

    Gunze colors are usually most accurate in shades , easy to thin (~1:3 with their own thinner) and easy to airbrush . Gives a semi gloss to gloss finish that is ready for wash without the need of a gloss varnish on .

    Usually is my first choice because they also have a wide range of colors covering every period of the war (early , mid or late) . Also , are "hard" colors , in the sense that they can stand extremely well even on bare plastic, as long as it is basically clean .

    Vallejo Model Air are not bad , takes more thinner and needs a dry retarder as well as a flow improver .

    Are more demanding in model preparation , needs a layer of primer and some smooth sanding before airbrush , and have many RLM shades , mostly OK in general , but some needs some mixture with other colors .

    AK real colors (AIR) , are a rising force for Luftwaffe enthousiasts , providing a full (or almost full) range of RLM colors ! For a fine result needs a lot of their own thinner (~1:3 to 2:3) and with a layer of primer and sanding goes very smooth and clean .

    For metal finish , my first choice are Alclad , always with their own primer and VALLEJO AIRBRUSH METAL COLOR .

    Also I have start with the new Tamiya metallics , and my first impression are very possitive although for the time being I have only worked with the X-11 Chrome silver on small surfaces .